LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
Also, need the after pics from the power washing!
Build "Falcor" the 1984 FJ60
- Thread starter 77CruiserDog
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- Thread starter
- #302
This is the one I bought.
Draw-Tite 75725 Max-Frame... Amazon product ASIN B007CF8HB0
Seems like the popular choice for 60 series based on my research. Should do great for bike rack duty.
- Thread starter
- #303
I’ll get some posted soon. it started to rain just as I finished up with some of those rivets so I pushed it back in the garage before taking any. It came out okay but it’s going to look awesome after powder.
- Thread starter
- #304
Pulled the trans/xfer case, bell housing, clutch assembly and flywheel.
Found evidence of a really bad clutch job some hack did before I bought this rig. For one the pivot for the clutch fork was was not installed correctly so it bent the wire that's supposed to capture the pivot ball. Rather than the pivot being captured by that wire, it was jammed up above it bending the wire and likely causing my strange clutch pedal feel. The flywheel was not machined, it was instead scrubbed with a die grinder and scotch brite pad which made it uneven and some areas still show where they scrubbed it harder than others.... properly resurfacing it will take care of that. Lastly, the pilot bearing was not replaced.
I suppose the good news was that they left many of the trans mount and cross member bolts finger tight so removal was easy.
Found evidence of a really bad clutch job some hack did before I bought this rig. For one the pivot for the clutch fork was was not installed correctly so it bent the wire that's supposed to capture the pivot ball. Rather than the pivot being captured by that wire, it was jammed up above it bending the wire and likely causing my strange clutch pedal feel. The flywheel was not machined, it was instead scrubbed with a die grinder and scotch brite pad which made it uneven and some areas still show where they scrubbed it harder than others.... properly resurfacing it will take care of that. Lastly, the pilot bearing was not replaced.
I suppose the good news was that they left many of the trans mount and cross member bolts finger tight so removal was easy.
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- Thread starter
- #305
(edited for obvious reasons)
Recipe for pilot bearing removal
One BFH
One (edit) OLD clutch alignment tool, obviously don't use the new one with your new clutch kit for this or you'll be pissed off later. Grip it with vice grips to save your hand in the next step.
27 ear plugs and one latex glove
Then swing away slowly adding ear plugs, bread or what have you until it’s removed.
Unless you have a bearing removal tool and in that case you’ve planned ahead better than me.
The old pilot bearing was well worn and I suspect the original. I mean, why would the previous mechanic do all the work to replace that key piece during a clutch replacement when they've just resurfaced the flywheel with a die grinder?
Recipe for pilot bearing removal
One BFH
One (edit) OLD clutch alignment tool, obviously don't use the new one with your new clutch kit for this or you'll be pissed off later. Grip it with vice grips to save your hand in the next step.
27 ear plugs and one latex glove
Then swing away slowly adding ear plugs, bread or what have you until it’s removed.
Unless you have a bearing removal tool and in that case you’ve planned ahead better than me.
The old pilot bearing was well worn and I suspect the original. I mean, why would the previous mechanic do all the work to replace that key piece during a clutch replacement when they've just resurfaced the flywheel with a die grinder?
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4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
You just smack it right on the potatoes.....I mean ear plugs?
- Thread starter
- #307
Kinda, imagine the bearing is still in that cavity... You pack it full of bread, potatos, ear plugs or whatever and then you drive the clutch alignment tool in to the middle of that bearing. Adding potatos as you go. Slowly but surely the potatos fill the cavity and push the bearing out. Some people use grease but that's a horrible mess. Here's a better visualization.
After that, you have time to do a bunch of this...
- Thread starter
- #308
"Project 5 the Hardway" is going to be on pause for a week, but I'm guessing when I get back I'll have a 5spd and a myriad of other items to work on.
Currently I'm in a bit of a pause anyway. I'm waiting for an engine stand so I can yard that heavy ass 2f out and flip it over to do the oil pan gasket and rear main seal.
After that I yank the axles out and haul the frame off to the media blaster/powder coater along with all of the other parts I'm cleaning up to be blasted and coated.
Before long it will be going back together and I'll have accomplished the main tasks of this project.
I'm also experimenting with stripping and replating the hardware. More on that soon.
I noticed one thing when I pulled off the bell housing, the freeze plug just around the corner from the block drain for coolant seems to be bulging a bit?? See below.
Anyone ever see a freeze plug that looks like this?
Currently I'm in a bit of a pause anyway. I'm waiting for an engine stand so I can yard that heavy ass 2f out and flip it over to do the oil pan gasket and rear main seal.
After that I yank the axles out and haul the frame off to the media blaster/powder coater along with all of the other parts I'm cleaning up to be blasted and coated.
Before long it will be going back together and I'll have accomplished the main tasks of this project.
- 5spd with new clutch
- rear main seal replacement
- oil pan gasket replacement
- oil cooler hose replacement
- c-channel replacement
- frame media blast and powder coating
- Valve stem seal replacement
I'm also experimenting with stripping and replating the hardware. More on that soon.
I noticed one thing when I pulled off the bell housing, the freeze plug just around the corner from the block drain for coolant seems to be bulging a bit?? See below.
Anyone ever see a freeze plug that looks like this?
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Bonus points for the office reference
- Thread starter
- #310
5spd landed.
I’m headed out of town for a bit but will get back to this project asap.
Thank you so much @orangefj45 !!! Your team rocks and the whole experience was fantastic!
I’m headed out of town for a bit but will get back to this project asap.
Thank you so much @orangefj45 !!! Your team rocks and the whole experience was fantastic!
Excited for you. Glad it got there safe and sound. Thanks again for sending business our way. It’s been a pleasure working with you. Please do keep us in mind if you need anything else. Doesn’t matter if it’s Parts or tech-support. Happy to help.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers w was a waaaaaawww
What kind of sorcery did you use to pop the heads off 8 rivets in 10 minutes??
I was going to ask the same question....?
- Thread starter
- #314
I call it The Wheel of Death... it's a cutting wheel on an angle grinder. It cut through them like butter. Two rivet heads on each side were less than 30 seconds... some of the others that I needed to be very careful with (along the rear spring perch and the body mount were along the lines of 45 seconds each. If I'm not mistaken, my air hammer will have the rest of the rivet out in about 4 seconds.... I've not done that piece yet but I'm getting close.
Next steps include, plucking the engine out, unhooking the axles and carrying the frame out to the bottom of the driveway to get the rest of the heads off the bottom of the frame and start air hammering. Then I test fit the new c-channels and hog out the holes a bit and it's off to blast/powder.
You mean like a diamond wheel?
- Thread starter
- #316
It looks like this.
I love this tool, it cuts through anything metal in no time. I buy the cut off wheels in packs of 10 because they wear out sort of quick. But, they're not very expensive. I think I paid $26 for 10 at Home Depot. At that price I don't think there's any diamonds it in. It's a handy tool and when the cut off wheels wear out they're still handy in some tight spots.
I love this tool, it cuts through anything metal in no time. I buy the cut off wheels in packs of 10 because they wear out sort of quick. But, they're not very expensive. I think I paid $26 for 10 at Home Depot. At that price I don't think there's any diamonds it in. It's a handy tool and when the cut off wheels wear out they're still handy in some tight spots.
Got it - regular 4” cutoff wheel!
Do you drop the gas tank, shield it, or just go Mad Max style? I’m considering preemptively doing this for Matilda because the C-channels are just barely starting to buckle, and if I decide to save my tomato truck it will certainly need it. Hence all the questions - I’m gathering ammunition for the fight.
- Thread starter
- #318
Yep, that's the tool. Like butter. I believe my air hammer will remove those cores in less than 5 seconds.
I left the tank where it was connected to the body but removed the body. I dropped by @LazarusTaxa and saw how he did it. Made it super easy. I'm happy to chat with you about what I learned doing it and what I learned from seeing his rig.
I'm doing the following, which just made it easier with the body off. C-channels, 5spd, clutch, frame blasting and powder coating, rear main seal, oil pan gasket and valve stem seals.
From start to finish pulling the body took 6 hours. Difficulty was about a 6 out of 10. I just used an engine hoist I bought on Amazon, a 20' chain from HD and went for it.
I've heard some people have taken days to do their c-channels, I did not want that. This made it simple.
I don’t doubt a larger engine hoist could handle body removal, but the balancing seems like it would be delicate work. And the height. I could see a standard engine hoist lifting the body off a small car no problem, but getting up above a tall cruiser … did you put the engine house on top of something else?
File this under scope creep for me - not necessary, be geez I’m sure contemplating it. “Hey perfect time to do the body mounts!” These trucks will be the death of me
- Thread starter
- #320
I don’t doubt a larger engine hoist could handle body removal, but the balancing seems like it would be delicate work. And the height. I could see a standard engine hoist lifting the body off a small car no problem, but getting up above a tall cruiser … did you put the engine house on top of something else?
File this under scope creep for me - not necessary, be geez I’m sure contemplating it. “Hey perfect time to do the body mounts!” These trucks will be the death of me
Ha! Yeah total project creep led me to this... I knew I was going to do a 5spd and clutch but then I met @LazarusTaxa and saw how he did it and was like... well, while I'm here I can do the c-channels and a bunch of other things.
Yes, I removed the tires and put vehicle dollies under the spring perches. The balancing was actually not an issue at all. I lifted the body and just scooted the chassis out underneath it. My wife did help but only to keep the back of the body stable while I rolled the chassis out from under it.