Factory vs non-factory wheels (2 Viewers)

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Oct 8, 2011
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Toronto, NSW, Australia
I'm starting to transition from non-factory aftermarket wheels to factory 16 x 8 steelies. My 80 doesn't need or want bling. It's not a show car. But I do want dependability.

Seems that most people say that factory steel wheels are better. Now I can't say yes or no to that, but at the end of the day I want my 80 to be servicable and useful for as long as possible as costing up to replace it is out of the question at present.

The factory wheels are the correct factory spec and I believe all the 16 x 8 steelies are identical in that regard unless someone says different.

I get that plenty of people have non-factory wheels (I do too - ROH's) so it's a mix of practicality vs personal choice.
 
Better is very subjective 🤷‍♂️
JMHO I think the OEM aluminum wheels are better, some of the best wheels made.
From a performance standpoint aluminum is the winner.
 
Why change from what you have at all?

We didn’t get steelies on our 80’s in the US. Our factory wheels are 16” aluminum/alloy. If I were to change from that, I’d go to 17” aluminum wheels.
 
Why change from what you have at all?

We didn’t get steelies on our 80’s in the US. Our factory wheels are 16” aluminum/alloy. If I were to change from that, I’d go to 17” aluminum wheels.

Actually this is incorrect.

Many spare wheels installed at the factory for the US market were the factory steel wheels. Which is odd. Most likely a market-specific consolation for delivery reasons.
 
Why change from what you have at all?

We didn’t get steelies on our 80’s in the US. Our factory wheels are 16” aluminum/alloy. If I were to change from that, I’d go to 17” aluminum wheels.
I've had factory alloy wheels and never liked them. Came to me with Cooper STT's and I ran them for a time when I had 5 inch lift. Muddies were not really suitable (or safe) after I stopped living full-time off road on a rural property so changed to steelies with AT's instead due to a larger mix of on-road use. Just at the time getting factory steelies was difficult and the original wheels were 15 inch due to the original smaller brakes, so when I changed to bigger front brakes I had to move up to 16 inch wheels to get the caliper clearance.
 
The weight of a 16 x 8 oem aluminium wheel is around 11 kg. An oem steely in the same size weighs 10 kg more. Multiplicate it by 5 or 6 ...... .
 
I have both the factory alloys and currently running a set of inexpensive steelies @ 16x8.
Approaching this from the reliability standpoint, the factory alloys are quite strong. Not sure an aftermarket alloy would be the same.
Steelies allow for a chance at trail repair where alloys would not, regardless.
So strictly imo a steel wheel allows for greater reliability.
 
The weight of a 16 x 8 oem aluminium wheel is around 11 kg. An oem steely in the same size weighs 10 kg more. Multiplicate it by 5 or 6 ...... .
For a vehicle that already weighs 2+ ish tonnes and has a GVM of 2.96 tonnes an additional 50 kg 'saved' is inconsequential for most people's reckoning. ;)

There is more excess weight in massive tyres than in the wheels themselves due all the extra tyre carcass, rubber, etc.
 
If you want dependability, and a new car is too expensive, save all that money on new wheels and keep/spend it on PM.
 
I have both the factory alloys and currently running a set of inexpensive steelies @ 16x8.
Approaching this from the reliability standpoint, the factory alloys are quite strong. Not sure an aftermarket alloy would be the same.
Steelies allow for a chance at trail repair where alloys would not, regardless.
So strictly imo a steel wheel allows for greater reliability.
I have never seen or heard of a bent or broken 80 OEM alloy wheel.
There STRONG
 
For a vehicle that already weighs 2+ ish tonnes and has a GVM of 2.96 tonnes an additional 50 kg 'saved' is inconsequential for most people's reckoning. ;)

There is more excess weight in massive tyres than in the wheels themselves due all the extra tyre carcass, rubber, etc.
Perfect, so add some more.
And yes every little bit counts 🤷‍♂️
 
For a vehicle that already weighs 2+ ish tonnes and has a GVM of 2.96 tonnes an additional 50 kg 'saved' is inconsequential for most people's reckoning. ;)

There is more excess weight in massive tyres than in the wheels themselves due all the extra tyre carcass, rubber, etc.

your factory forged aluminum wheels are the way to go.

you don't need to worry about big tires, the Australian guvment made that decision for you.
 
your factory forged aluminum wheels are the way to go.

you don't need to worry about big tires, the Australian guvment made that decision for you.
Factory wheels are NOT forged.

Been proven here on the site by Toyota Engineers.

@sunrk
That said, any additional weight is UNSPRUNG and is rotating mass. It takes more torque to bring the weight up to speed as well as better brakes to slow it down. Yes it WILL be noticeable, as there are (4) of them. At 10 LB each, that is an additional 40 LB of rotating mass the already underpowered engine has to overcome. Is is significant? Maybe not, but I want to do all I can to eliminate extra unnecessary weight if I can avoid it.

With this being unsprung mass, you will feel a difference in your suspension, particularly with potholes. The shocks will have a fixed compensation rate and this will change the original design, as does heavier tires. I chose my tires based on a number of things, and weight was one of them. Nitto, I think it was, are about 30 LB heavier PER TIRE than the Duratracs I choose to run.

I do agree with your analysis of a steel wheel repair on the trail vs an aluminum one. This is a legitimate concern.
I had a collision with another vehicle long ago that pointed out this exact scenario for me. In that case, I switched to all steel wheels for that truck. However, it also had 375 HP and I did a LOT of offroading and towing with it. That engine did not even notice the change in rotating mass. Then again, that was old enough that it was designed with steel wheels.
 
Factory wheels are NOT forged.

Been proven here on the site by Toyota Engineers.

@sunrk
That said, any additional weight is UNSPRUNG and is rotating mass. It takes more torque to bring the weight up to speed as well as better brakes to slow it down. Yes it WILL be noticeable, as there are (4) of them. At 10 LB each, that is an additional 40 LB of rotating mass the already underpowered engine has to overcome. Is is significant? Maybe not, but I want to do all I can to eliminate extra unnecessary weight if I can avoid it.

With this being unsprung mass, you will feel a difference in your suspension, particularly with potholes. The shocks will have a fixed compensation rate and this will change the original design, as does heavier tires. I chose my tires based on a number of things, and weight was one of them. Nitto, I think it was, are about 30 LB heavier PER TIRE than the Duratracs I choose to run.

I do agree with your analysis of a steel wheel repair on the trail vs an aluminum one. This is a legitimate concern.
I had a collision with another vehicle long ago that pointed out this exact scenario for me. In that case, I switched to all steel wheels for that truck. However, it also had 375 HP and I did a LOT of offroading and towing with it. That engine did not even notice the change in rotating mass. Then again, that was old enough that it was designed with steel wheels.

by some guy who "says he's a toyota engineer"...
 
by some guy who "says he's a toyota engineer"...
I'll let others determine what they think....


 
I'll let others determine what they think....



I know enough metallurgists that we could chop one up and let them tell us....
 
I have a slightly different slant when choosing the wheels you use. Some of these newer cast wheels have a very limited clearance for the lug wrench you use to loosen or tighten the lugnuts. Obviously these wheels were designed for looks, not maintenance. A while back, I stopped to help a rig that had a flat on a road back in the woods 25 miles or so from the highway. It was a GM SUV, maybe 10 yrs old or so. Anyway, it had sexy flashy cast wheels on it, not sure if they were OEM and driver was at his wits end because his star lugwrench and factory lug wrench couldn't loosen the lugnuts. Luckily, I carry a fair selection of sockets so was able to help him out. Ended up having to use a 3/8" drive socket to get them loose and broke 2 extentions to do the job due to how tight one of the nuts was. 1/2" drive sockets or even the factory lug wrench were too big to fit into the casting's cavities for the lug nuts.

My point is, let's say you just bought some el primo wheels that caught your fancy and you just can't stop admiring your rig. Before you take it out of town, lift it up and be sure you can get a wheel off if you have to with the tools you carry. Few things are more frustrating than finding out you're not as prepared as you thought. Tire shops are usually well stocked with specialty wrenches for the wheels they sell. It will be necessary, if this is the case, to have the correct tool. My having to use a 3/8" drive socket was a band aid for an emergency, not a permanent fix. You'll want a tool that can hold up to the torque necessary on lugnuts.
 
I have a slightly different slant when choosing the wheels you use. Some of these newer cast wheels have a very limited clearance for the lug wrench you use to loosen or tighten the lugnuts. Obviously these wheels were designed for looks, not maintenance. A while back, I stopped to help a rig that had a flat on a road back in the woods 25 miles or so from the highway. It was a GM SUV, maybe 10 yrs old or so. Anyway, it had sexy flashy cast wheels on it, not sure if they were OEM and driver was at his wits end because his star lugwrench and factory lug wrench couldn't loosen the lugnuts. Luckily, I carry a fair selection of sockets so was able to help him out. Ended up having to use a 3/8" drive socket to get them loose and broke 2 extentions to do the job due to how tight one of the nuts was. 1/2" drive sockets or even the factory lug wrench were too big to fit into the casting's cavities for the lug nuts.

My point is, let's say you just bought some el primo wheels that caught your fancy and you just can't stop admiring your rig. Before you take it out of town, lift it up and be sure you can get a wheel off if you have to with the tools you carry. Few things are more frustrating than finding out you're not as prepared as you thought. Tire shops are usually well stocked with specialty wrenches for the wheels they sell. It will be necessary, if this is the case, to have the correct tool. My having to use a 3/8" drive socket was a band aid for an emergency, not a permanent fix. You'll want a tool that can hold up to the torque necessary on lugnuts.
Excellent point!

And make DAMN sure you have the security socket and a backup if you decide to use them.
 

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