That'd be basically a 3/16 difference.
25.4mm to the inch
1.9375 (1-15/16) = 49.2125mm.
I'd guess a 50mm hole, and it was .008" undersized.
F 135 engine popped a freeze plug on first drive after rebuild. Are the available from dealer? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Wadesters
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That'd be basically a 3/16 difference.
25.4mm to the inch
1.9375 (1-15/16) = 49.2125mm.
I'd guess a 50mm hole, and it was .008" undersized.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I've heard of someone on here removing the heater and cutting the firewall to replace one, ouch
. I have no rust buckets in the herd I would be willing to cut up.
. I have no rust buckets in the herd I would be willing to cut up.
Wadesters
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #23
I contacted engine rebuilder this morning who said the machine shop installed freeze plugs. Bottom line is I paid him for the rebuild and he is responsible which he owned up to and said we’ll make it right. If we’re only changing one freeze plug, I would probably do it but since they all have to be changed, I don’t feel is my responsibility especially since I have put 0 miles on it. He is contacting machine shop and they will make a plan. We’ll see. I am thinking of replacing the one that has blown out at least so I can move it around depending on his timeline. Of course, it is the hardest one to get to.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
The ones on the back are hardest to get to. If you have a header that makes it harder. Stock exhaust with a punch not to hard to seat that style of freeze plug.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Hopefully this isn’t too much noise, but info from ‘65 Engine Group parts book:
There’s one “expansion plug” in the head, part L in figure, part no. 90330-50018
There are four of these in the block, parts V in figure, same part number 90330-50018.
And one quick google search for 90330-50018
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
There’s one “expansion plug” in the head, part L in figure, part no. 90330-50018
There are four of these in the block, parts V in figure, same part number 90330-50018.
And one quick google search for 90330-50018
90330-50018 Genuine Toyota Plug, Tight
ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 90330-50018 (9033050018) Plug, Tight for $4.18. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
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It's nice they will fix the issue. I hope they are fixing the oil plugs too if need, besides the water ones. You could just stuff something in the hole to plug it, then fill the system with water and don't put on the radiator cap - you could run the engine for a while without risk. Plastic bag with clay or rags inside would work.
I can pull the engine/tranny/transfer in 3 hrs by myself, about the same to put it all back in.
I can pull the engine/tranny/transfer in 3 hrs by myself, about the same to put it all back in.
Wadesters
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #27
*** Update *** Machine shop looked at their bag of 50mm freeze plugs and they are all 1 15/16. They are paying my engine builder to come here, 3 hours one way, and replace freeze plugs. Trying to determine if easier to remove cab or pull engine. Paint just finished and all assembled. I assume remove all sheet metal from front and pull engine.
Going to be work but at least they owned up to it and going to make it right.
I know there are all kinds of freeze plug kits available. I want to have over kill when mechanic comes. Is it better to order a whole kit from SOR or by them separate at dealer?
Again THANKS to all for the help.
Going to be work but at least they owned up to it and going to make it right.
I know there are all kinds of freeze plug kits available. I want to have over kill when mechanic comes. Is it better to order a whole kit from SOR or by them separate at dealer?
Again THANKS to all for the help.
SOR is the last call call I make for parts. First I might try Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters, if they don't have a kit (I haven't checked) I bet they can make one.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Sorry this happened to you! Glad to hear they are working to make it right.
What is the actual size of the hole ?
Somebody else said 50mm.
Wadesters
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #35
Sent this information to my engine builder as an FYI before he comes: I keep working on this removing parts trying to figure out how it is going to work. I thought about taking seats, fuel tank, trans hump cover out. Then we could possibly take out the trans and transfer and leave the engine where it is. I know engine does not have to come out to change clutch however when that is done most use a lift. There is only about 1” clearance the way it sits now between engine and firewall. I do have a hoist that I have used to lift up body mounted in my ceiling. I would need to completely remove the hardtop as my ceiling is only 8’ high. Also have never lifted one that is painted. Somehow it would have to be lifted exactly level, there is only 1” clearance between the cab and pickup bed. (The pickup bed is very heavy, took 4 young guys to lift it in place). Whatever method does not look like it is going to be easy.
Wadesters
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #36
Found it. When I removed seats and trans tunnel I can see the third (on back side of engine) freeze plug. Luckily it is above the bell housing. Looks to me like either dropping the engine down a little or removing body mounts and lifting body up a little it can be accessed.
We will see. Engine builder coming Thursday.
We will see. Engine builder coming Thursday.
50mm = 1.9685
1-15/16 = 1.9385
1-15/16 = 1.9385
FJBen
SILVER Star
Man that’s frustrating…
I’ve heard so many stories of machine shops doing stuff like this either by not knowing, not caring or being cheap.
I was rebuilding an engine I bought from a friend. Some of the machine work was done by a shop he used. My machine shop showed me all the shoddy work and how it was wrong.
He didn’t even charge me to redo the head as they had set it up all wrong and felt bad about all the crap work before. There were lots of things really wrong that he said would have caused the rebuild to not last long at all.
I honestly wouldn’t have know a lot of the things wrong until he showed me. He gave me a heck of a deal for all the work and basically let me hang out and show what to look for, what needs to be done and went off of the Toyota manual. Redoing the work was only $2-300 more in parts to have it done right.
I got lucky with my shop, but others have not been so lucky.
I’ve heard so many stories of machine shops doing stuff like this either by not knowing, not caring or being cheap.
I was rebuilding an engine I bought from a friend. Some of the machine work was done by a shop he used. My machine shop showed me all the shoddy work and how it was wrong.
He didn’t even charge me to redo the head as they had set it up all wrong and felt bad about all the crap work before. There were lots of things really wrong that he said would have caused the rebuild to not last long at all.
I honestly wouldn’t have know a lot of the things wrong until he showed me. He gave me a heck of a deal for all the work and basically let me hang out and show what to look for, what needs to be done and went off of the Toyota manual. Redoing the work was only $2-300 more in parts to have it done right.
I got lucky with my shop, but others have not been so lucky.
