Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (7 Viewers)

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He's saying the 2x2 arm twists... that'll be a function of the mounting point distance to the spindle shell. It takes a pretty ridiculous amount of torque to deform a 2x2 square tube of that wall thickness. Even if the spare tire weighed 200 lbs and the center of mass was 24" above the centerline of the tube, that's 400 ft/lb of torque under 1g of acceleration or braking... you could be ridiculous and say it's subjected to 5gs of lateral acceleration and you've got 2000 ft/lbs of torque on it. Still not enough to plastically deform it. I hang my 37 off the back of it and it moves less than the body does.
I wonder if it's the long single swing out and how it's supported/latched. I made mine out of 2x3 3/16" and noticed it still wobbled a lot even with nothing on it. So I added a 1" block of steel to support it. Latched down I don't see this thing moving at all. I don't think Luke's design includes anything to support the weight of the arm opposite of the spindle. And with a big tire on it, the movement is exaggerated.

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Radflo 2.5s and OME 5" Comp coils for the back. At this point I need to stop buying parts. Way too many things to build and install with no time to do it!

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I am looking forward to hearing how those 5" rear comp springs work out for you.
 
I wonder if it's the long single swing out and how it's supported/latched. I made mine out of 2x3 3/16" and noticed it still wobbled a lot even with nothing on it. So I added a 1" block of steel to support it. Latched down I don't see this thing moving at all. I don't think Luke's design includes anything to support the weight of the arm opposite of the spindle. And with a big tire on it, the movement is exaggerated.

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What is happening with that weld along the bottom seam of the bumper? That llooks like herpes
 
What is happening with that weld along the bottom seam of the bumper? That llooks like herpes
You have a knack for pointing out the bad in everything :flipoff2: Welder was sputtering on that joint and it wasn't until after I was done I realized the wife was running the dryer, sucking up all my amps. I use the 110v outlet in the laundry room because it's on a bigger breaker.

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Radflo 2.5s and OME 5" Comp coils for the back. At this point I need to stop buying parts. Way too many things to build and install with no time to do it!

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What's the 3 digit number on the white tag on those springs?
 
:flipoff2:
Radflo 2.5s and OME 5" Comp coils for the back. At this point I need to stop buying parts. Way too many things to build and install with no time to do it!

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Ah dangit. Thought you'd be more fun than just the same rear setup. Those Radflos look aweful nice compared to my blown OME's. Have put them in a cart multiple times but can't pull the trigger. I'm stripping amd caging mine first then do something fun with the rear. Was hopi g you could screw yours up first so I can see what not to do:flipoff2:
 
You have a knack for pointing out the bad in everything :flipoff2: Welder was sputtering on that joint and it wasn't until after I was done I realized the wife was running the dryer, sucking up all my amps. I use the 110v outlet in the laundry room because it's on a bigger breaker.

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It stands out since your other welds aren't like that. Just curious
 
:flipoff2:

Ah dangit. Thought you'd be more fun than just the same rear setup. Those Radflos look aweful nice compared to my blown OME's. Have put them in a cart multiple times but can't pull the trigger. I'm stripping amd caging mine first then do something fun with the rear. Was hopi g you could screw yours up first so I can see what not to do:flipoff2:

I would have liked to, but realistically I don't see myself spending a couple grand more on the rear suspension. I think the most I'd do is rework the links and mounts like nukegoat did or cut it all out and go leafs. Coilovers are sexy, but too much work and too much money to do on all 4 corners.

It stands out since your other welds aren't like that. Just curious

No you're right. That's why I didn't post that picture before! I get that problem a lot if I plug the welder in to an outlet on a 15a breaker.
 
So sorta related but not, I'm selling my dual swing 4X4 labs "ARMS" with tire carrier, ladder and 3 can holder if anyone is looking for arms for one of Luke's 80's bumpers.

Haven't posted anything yet, but just floating it out there. All part of the "de expo'ing" headed back towards my original direction with the rig. ;)

-A

@AMMO sent you a PM


and subscribed to this thread, Thanks Jose been fun watching this thing evolve and a great reference
 
At this stage I’m past the point of no return. Fender flares are gone. There’s dozens of holes in my truck. I don’t own a welder and haven’t done any welding since high school when I used an arc welder. I wanted a permanent fix so I found a Craigslist handyman to weld up the holes. Quick and cheap. But now I’m left with a lot of body work to do, which I don’t know anything about either. Armed with a sander and a can of Bondo I get to work and start the tear-down.
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Body work sucks. I hate it. I have a newfound respect for guys skilled in this craft. After numerous miserable hours of sanding and smoothing I think I finally have everything smooth and leveled out. Not good enough for an OEM-like paint job, but a thick roll-on liner should cover the imperfections well.
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Speaking of liner paints, I settled on using Monstaliner. Hope to have it done by summer of 2013. Here’s a comparison between WWII OD Green and Jungle Love. I’m pretty sure I’ll be painting it the OD Green color.
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While the truck is in shambles I decided to add some hood vents. I’ve seen the various installs and really like the vents from the Chevy Lumina Z34. Picked up a set on eBay complete with the plastic drip pan (yet to be installed) and got to cutting and hacking.
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All this body work is depressing. I needed to take the truck out. Bolted the lights back on and went to play in the mud. This was at the La Grange OHV park and some random forest roads in the Stanislaus National Forest.
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did you remove the factory roof rack and the luggage strips on the roof? i removed the rack because it was loose and rusting around the mounts so i plan to fill the holes and monstaliner but i was planning to keep the plastic strips - they seem solid and wasn't sure if it made sense to remove. i would just tape them over before rolling the monstaliner on. what do you think? what tape you use - frog tape?
 
I would have liked to, but realistically I don't see myself spending a couple grand more on the rear suspension. I think the most I'd do is rework the links and mounts like nukegoat did or cut it all out and go leafs. Coilovers are sexy, but too much work and too much money to do on all 4 corners.

I hear ya man. Just giving you a hard time. Hopefully those Radflo's work out nicely. But I can tell you with the front end finished....you'll notice the rear lacking quite a bit. I'm still researching different choices for the rear, won't be for a while. But an internal cage is first, so when the time comes I can tie into it up in the cab once I'm ready ($$$)
 
My order from Ballistic Fab finally came in. Now I can finish the tire carrier, among other things

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I forget do you still have an 80 front axle or did you step it up? I've been looking for a cover protector for my front pumpkin.
 
I forget do you still have an 80 front axle or did you step it up? I've been looking for a cover protector for my front pumpkin.
Still the stock 80 axle. This is for the 8" mini truck axles, but it should fit the same. Won't clear the panhard though. Top part of the cover needs a bit of trimming.
 
423, also listed as 2423.

Guess I should have piped up sooner. I'll be looking to sell mine at some point. I have the 423s and they are more than I need.
 

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