Builds Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap (6 Viewers)

[Rock40]

Forgot to mention that the starter on the 24 valve is mounted on the left hand side of the engine, just like the 1HD-T's. I'll need to extend the alternator wires over to the right side of the engine as on the gasser, the alternator was located on the left side of the engine, no big deal though.

 

[Rock40]

And Dave, when you mention a supply for the diesel pump I'm assuming you're referring to a 12 volt ignition hot lead for the fuel cut-off switch? I have the original 12 volt (ignition hot) lead for the igniter (EFI distributor) still in the truck so I was planning on using that.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Basically I need to differentiate what is needed and what is not. Compared to the automatic trans and EFI gas engine (that was originally in the truck) what I need to wire is very little.

The vehicle still has the charging circuit/fuse box in place under the hood which is a big bonus. I'm just missing the entire EFI gas engine harness which I really don't think is a big deal at this point. If I had it, I probably just cut it up anyway for the correct connectors.

I want all the gauges to work of course but that is really only water temp, oil pressure, engine rpm's, charge circuit and speedo.

Nick, if you think you might have the right connectors and want to donate/sell them to the cause let me know...

Jan, as I get a bit further along with this I'll hit you up for some pics of how things are wired up above/behind your glovebox.

Dave, thanks for your input on the relays and what not. It's likely I'm going to try and get it going without the intake heater functioning then iron out some of the details down the road. Our emissions testing here is all done on a HOT engine so it shouldn't make much difference. The really big challenge will be prepping it to fire off and the ability to monitor the oil pressure and water temp.

Will do.

As for the trans harness, I would try to leave as much of the original harness stuff as possible since it runs the CDL and other electronics on the t-case. I just spliced the wires that went to the auto trans and only used the reverse light circuit wires and wrapped up the rest in electrical tape. May make things easier for you as that would be one less thing to customize. I'm fairly certain that the early model and late model trans harness configurations are different. IE there's a totally different connector that connects to the engine harness.

 

[tweeek]

LX450 1HZ Turbo Diesel & 5speed swap


See this thread for some good info on wiring. It is a 1HZ in an LX450, but the principle for most connections will be the same. Even the wire color in most cases.

Download the EWD for the 1996 North American LC for pinning out your connectors behind glove box. There should be 2 connectors for the engine harness under there and 3 smaller ones that were connected to the engine/trans ECU which is no longer needed.

Having the gasser harness connectors and legnth of wire would be an assest as you can splice it to your hacked harness and retain minimal splicing to the short wires under the dash.

Thats my plan, but its only theory at this point

 

[CycloSteve]

My experience with adding the OEM Subtank indicates that there is a lot of common wiring in these trucks, HDJ, FZJ, and various different markets. As others have said, there will be many more unused/unnecessary wires than missing ones. Years ago I bought a wiring harness from an early 80, and have been using wires and plugs from that loom on many different projects. You may want to see if you can get ahold of a FZJ harness to cannibalize for your project.

 

[Dave 2000]

I had to use an additional relay for the starter, since the original gasser one would not provide enough juice for the diesel 2.5kw starter. I think the 12V gas starter is only 0.5kw or so. But it was easy to wire a strong standard ford relay into the system and drive it with the stock one.
cheers,
Jan

That's interesting although I can't see a 0.5 kw starter spinning the petrol 6 cylinder,perhaps double that or even 1.5kw? The solenoid on the side of the starter is what is responsible for meshing the gears and bringing the contacts together. This would mean the relay that energises the solenoid (around 10 amps?) should be man enough for the job, the amount of kw is not an issue, that is carried by the main wire from the battery positive, that would have to be heavier IMO. Any reason you did not remove the stock relay and wire in the heavier one direct?

regards

Dave

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

That's interesting although I can't see a 0.5 kw starter spinning the petrol 6 cylinder,perhaps double that or even 1.5kw? The solenoid on the side of the starter is what is responsible for meshing the gears and bringing the contacts together. This would mean the relay that energises the solenoid (around 10 amps?) should be man enough for the job, the amount of kw is not an issue, that is carried by the main wire from the battery positive, that would have to be heavier IMO. Any reason you did not remove the stock relay and wire in the heavier one direct?

regards

Dave

Yes, it could very well be 1.5 kw for the gas starter.

EDIT: just checked, the gasser starter is 1.4kw.

I wanted to change the original relay, but it is hidden somewhere under the dash, as far as I know. Not like the easily accessible setup of the 3B, 2H, 1HZ...where it is in the engine bay. So simple convenience. However, if you look at the wire from the original relay to the solenoid of the starter, it is much thinner on the gasser than on the diesels, which made me think there is some current limitation there.

The gasser relay is just borderline, sometimes it worked and engaged the starter, sometimes not. I don't think it is an individual problem, as we had to do the same thing on several 80s where 1HZs were swapped in.
cheers,
Jan

 

[Dave 2000]

Forgot to mention that the starter on the 24 valve is mounted on the left hand side of the engine, just like the 1HD-T's. I'll need to extend the alternator wires over to the right side of the engine as on the gasser, the alternator was located on the left side of the engine, no big deal though.

The blocks are very similar but was unsure about the gasser, you will have to increase the power cable size, on the 24 volt system the starter is 4.5 kw, but remember this was for places like Russian winters. The starter, assuming you use the 2.5kw one we spoke about in the pm will draw over 200 amps. Jan mentioned the gasser starter only being 0.5kw so 40 amps, this would leave your present cabling wanting. If you plan to run later with an auxiliary battery keep that in mind when wiring your alternator, you might want to wire for a R/H battery and run the cables over while you in there?

I have a thread on here somewhere about power/charge cable options being used on my 80, going out the door now to work so will sort it later.

And Dave, when you mention a supply for the diesel pump I'm assuming you're referring to a 12 volt ignition hot lead for the fuel cut-off switch? I have the original 12 volt (ignition hot) lead for the igniter (EFI distributor) still in the truck so I was planning on using that.

Not a problem, the stop solenoid will work with as little as 2 amps, just enough to lift the plunger.

regards


Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Yes, it could very well be 1.5 kw for the gas starter.

EDIT: just checked, the gasser starter is 1.4kw.

I wanted to change the original relay, but it is hidden somewhere under the dash, as far as I know. Not like the easily accessible setup of the 3B, 2H, 1HZ...where it is in the engine bay. So simple convenience. However, if you look at the wire from the original relay to the solenoid of the starter, it is much thinner on the gasser than on the diesels, which made me think there is some current limitation there.

The gasser relay is just borderline, sometimes it worked and engaged the starter, sometimes not. I don't think it is an individual problem, as we had to do the same thing on several 80s where 1HZs were swapped in.
cheers,
Jan

At least Rock has some useful information and can keep an eye out for it, nice one.

regards

Dave

 

[Rock40]

OK, the floorboard mods are now done. The front of the floor was cut out about 65mm towards the engine and slightly toward the left side of the vehicle. I didn't want to fill the entire inside of the vehicle with dust and metal cutting particles so I drilled out the shape then carefully removed it. I used an air driven right angle drill as there is very little vertical room to get a regular drill in there. It did require some very minor cutting with a dremel tool then sanding, filing, etc to get it to just the right shape.

The part shaded with blue colored pen is what I removed to clear the transfer case shifter. All my cuts retained the factory "nutserts" in the floor. I'll use those later when I seal the whole deal back up.

Here it is with everything cut out, sanded and filed down. All and all really not too bad and I don't feel like the floor is totally hacked up. Slow week, I'd be way further along on this if it wasn't for having to go to my real job everyday

 

[MoGas]

Following

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Awesome job removing as little material as possible. I ended up taking off too much as I cut before install.

Nice and clean too!

 

[Rock40]

I also received the diesel fuel tank pickup from the Netherlands today, THANKS TROOPIE!

The diesel pickup is on the left and you can see that the inlet is much bigger than the gasser counterpart. The inlet does have a screen but I removed it for the comparison pic and for cleaning.

The ID of the diesel pickup 10mm (3/8") and the gasser ID is only 6mm. With that in mind, I'm going to plumb the whole fuel system in at least 10mm stuff. I'll probably do at least 12mm on the main flex lines.

I metered out the fuel level senders also and they are very close (within a few ohms of each other) so I'm not going to bother switching them. They run about 2-112 ohm so I seriously doubt the fuel gauge will be able to read the difference a couple of ohm make.

I also installed the clutch slave cylinder (with new bolts) and a new shift seat in the H151. For simplicity, I'm going to run a 3AN stainless steel flex line between the clutch master and clutch slave instead of sourcing all the correct LHD parts from overseas. I know, cheating.....

 

[Rock40]

Awesome job removing as little material as possible. I ended up taking off too much as I cut before install.

Nice and clean too!

Thanks Nick, I think it'd be REAL hard to do it without the trans already in for comparison. I was able to raise/lower the trans, trim, sand, refit, etc until I was happy with it.

 

[CycloSteve]

Looking at the t-case shifter, it looks like that is the RHD one. In looking at the diagrams, you should be able to use the LHD one off of your 80. Doing so will place it more towards the rear.

 

[Rock40]

Yeah, I don't have an LHD one. I got zero USA drivetrain parts with the truck. Is there a reason why the RHD one won't work??

 

[CycloSteve]

Yeah, I don't have an LHD one. I got zero USA drivetrain parts with the truck. Is there a reason why the RHD one won't work??

The RHD MTM one will work mechanically, but it may not align well with the LHD MTM rubber, pleather boots, and console...perhaps with a bit of tweaking. Same may apply with the LHD one from the ATM version. The LHD MTM version appears to have a bend towards the rear, while the ATM one does not, and the RHD looks to be oriented towards the left. Still pulling the console out of mine to have a look-see with the ATM setup. With the LHD MTM you will want the t-case shifter to be to the right of the trans shifter and farther back.

Here is a good current post on the issue.

80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80

LHD ATM version

RHD MTM version

 

[Rock40]

Yes, you make a very good point. I see more mods ahead....I may have a different shifter design laying around somewhere, we'll see tomorrow. Thanks for the pics,

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Yes, you make a very good point. I see more mods ahead....I may have a different shifter design laying around somewhere, we'll see tomorrow. Thanks for the pics,

I always assumed you could re-use the t case shifter from the auto version on the LHD trucks? If the only difference is a slight bend, might as well see if you can bend the shifter a bit...

Also, I looked through my wire harness collection. No go trying to find you the male end of that connector. Only the female end. Sorry man.

 

[Rock40]

Ozcruiser, I know what connectors I need, getting my hands in them seems to be the problem.

You wouldn't have a spare HD-FT engine harness lying around would you???