Really nice engineering and work.
Builds Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Rock40
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- Thread starter
- #282
Tweek, I do have the correct EWD for the 96' USA model. My point is this: there is very few similarities between the diesel and gas engine harness.
I have also read through that post regarding the LX450 a bunch of times. After I spent the afternoon with the EWD, a multimeter and bunch of patience, my notes match his more or less. I will say that the LX450 owner is obviously a very talented guy who can read a diagram then start putting stuff together. Not me. I'm a very visual learner and I'd benefit greatly from some pics and a better explanation of how he got from A to B to C.....
I will say that how he got the cruise to work makes zero sense to me. Yes, I have all the diagrams, I just can't make heads or tails in terms of what he's talking about.
I have also read through that post regarding the LX450 a bunch of times. After I spent the afternoon with the EWD, a multimeter and bunch of patience, my notes match his more or less. I will say that the LX450 owner is obviously a very talented guy who can read a diagram then start putting stuff together. Not me. I'm a very visual learner and I'd benefit greatly from some pics and a better explanation of how he got from A to B to C.....
I will say that how he got the cruise to work makes zero sense to me. Yes, I have all the diagrams, I just can't make heads or tails in terms of what he's talking about.
- Thread starter
- #283
Here's what I have pinned out on the USA model IH1 connector so far... As I start to sort this mess out and determine which USA wires are hooked up to the European harness, I'll take plenty of pics.
#1: SPEEDO, RED/ORANGE
#2: WATER TEMP
#3: COMBINATION METER, YELLOW/BLACK
#4: OIL PRESSURE
#5: NOT USED
#6: SPEEDO, FROM GAUGE, YELLOW
#7: REVERSE LIGHTS, RED/BLACK
#8: TRANSFER MOTOR, GREEN
#9: TRANSFER MOTOR, GREEN/YELLOW
#10: TRANSFER MOTOR, GREEN/BLUE
#11: DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR, BLACK/YELLOW
#12: DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR, WHITE/BLUE
#13: DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR, GREY/RED
#14: POWER TO INJECTORS, BLACK/RED
#15: POWER TO AC RELAY, BLACK/RED
#16: TRANSFER MOTOR, GREEN/BLACK
#17: TO ECU, RED/WHITE
#18: NOT USED
#19: CRUISE CONTROL TO ECU, GREEN/WHITE
#20: FROM ABS TO DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR, RED/BLUE
#21: START POWER FROM KEY, BLACK/WHITE
#22: MAIN EFI RELAY POWER, YELLOW/RED
#23: DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR, ORANGE
#24: TRANSFER CASE LOW, BLACK/BLUE
#1: SPEEDO, RED/ORANGE
#2: WATER TEMP
#3: COMBINATION METER, YELLOW/BLACK
#4: OIL PRESSURE
#5: NOT USED
#6: SPEEDO, FROM GAUGE, YELLOW
#7: REVERSE LIGHTS, RED/BLACK
#8: TRANSFER MOTOR, GREEN
#9: TRANSFER MOTOR, GREEN/YELLOW
#10: TRANSFER MOTOR, GREEN/BLUE
#11: DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR, BLACK/YELLOW
#12: DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR, WHITE/BLUE
#13: DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR, GREY/RED
#14: POWER TO INJECTORS, BLACK/RED
#15: POWER TO AC RELAY, BLACK/RED
#16: TRANSFER MOTOR, GREEN/BLACK
#17: TO ECU, RED/WHITE
#18: NOT USED
#19: CRUISE CONTROL TO ECU, GREEN/WHITE
#20: FROM ABS TO DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR, RED/BLUE
#21: START POWER FROM KEY, BLACK/WHITE
#22: MAIN EFI RELAY POWER, YELLOW/RED
#23: DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR, ORANGE
#24: TRANSFER CASE LOW, BLACK/BLUE
I can explain the cruise part I think. What he is saying is that for cruise to operate, the "D" on the cluster needs to be lit up.
Look at page 131 and 132 of the NA 80 series EWD. On page 131 you will see that pin6 on IH1 gets IG1 power via the 10A Gauge fuse. If you look on page 132 you will see when the Park/Neutral position switch is in the "D" position, it sends that 12v through to IH2 pin 4, which in turn lights the D on the cluster.
By jumping the two wires behind the dash, you eliminate the Park/Neutral switch and send 12v to the D light any time you are in IG1 position.
Remember he is using a 3fe cruise actuator as well, which apparantly plugs right into the LX harness. I dont think the 1fz actuator will work.
As for the NSS, you shouldnt need to worry about it on the diesel harness with the h151. The diesel uses a starter relay as seen on PG1G of the HDJ EWD. Signal comes from IH1 pin21 of your NA 80, goes to IG1 pin14 on european diesel, to close the starter relay, which inturn sends signal to the starter. The M/T bypasses the NSS all together.
What I dont know is if you can bypass the starter relay since you are using a 12v starter and just send 12v straight to the starter from IH1 pin 21 (like the 1fz) I think the relay is just in place to send 24v to the starter in engines equipped with the 12-24v switchover. I would think so, but not sure.
Again, this is just theory from me looking at the diagrams. Im not this far in my swap yet, just trying to plan ahead.
- Thread starter
- #285
STARTER CIRCUIT FIXED!! Thanks to my electrical engineer buddy who came over this morning 
I posted before that I was getting 12 volts on the black/white starter wire (at the IH1 connector) with the key in the "ON" position. Based on the wiring diagrams (and common sense), the starter wire should only get voltage when the key is in "START".
It turned out there was actually nothing wrong with it. My voltage reading of 12 volts at the black/white start wire with the key in the "On" position was correct but we determined that the voltage is some sort of very low inductive current which is pulling less then 1.2 milliamps. That's obviously not going to get the starter cranking over.
I abused a factory headlight bulb and we rigged up the bulb to the black/white starter wire, an electrical meter and then out to ground. That way we could measure the amperage going through it and the headlight bulb should only light when it gets power.
Key On= bulb unlit, no amps on meter
Key Start= bulb lit, 3.7 amps on meter
So, everything is functioning correctly after all, what a relief. The pic is a mock up of what we did to test it, you get the idea though.
I posted before that I was getting 12 volts on the black/white starter wire (at the IH1 connector) with the key in the "ON" position. Based on the wiring diagrams (and common sense), the starter wire should only get voltage when the key is in "START".
It turned out there was actually nothing wrong with it. My voltage reading of 12 volts at the black/white start wire with the key in the "On" position was correct but we determined that the voltage is some sort of very low inductive current which is pulling less then 1.2 milliamps. That's obviously not going to get the starter cranking over.
I abused a factory headlight bulb and we rigged up the bulb to the black/white starter wire, an electrical meter and then out to ground. That way we could measure the amperage going through it and the headlight bulb should only light when it gets power.
Key On= bulb unlit, no amps on meter
Key Start= bulb lit, 3.7 amps on meter
So, everything is functioning correctly after all, what a relief. The pic is a mock up of what we did to test it, you get the idea though.
- Thread starter
- #286
Picked up the custom 316L stainless block off plates for the EGR circuit today.......Not drilled yet obviously.
These are available for purchase if anybody wants a set. They are 1/4" thick and computer cut, CAD drawn pieces.
These are available for purchase if anybody wants a set. They are 1/4" thick and computer cut, CAD drawn pieces.
What's the price on these?
- Thread starter
- #288
$40, they'll last forever and you can pass them on to your grandkids.
- Thread starter
- #289
Love it, hate it or indifferent, here's what I did for the Walbro fuel pump circuit.
Fuel pump mount on driver side (LHD) frame rail. I used more of the heavy gauge tube caps, welded them on the frame, then drilled tapped through both the caps and the frame. I used 5/16x18 stainless studs which are secured in place with Loctite.
The gasser truck already has 12 volts back at the tank to run the factory in-tank pump. The diesel fuel pick-up obviously has no internal pump but I used the available 12 volts to power the Walbro pump. Getting the circuit energized took some time though....
This is the relay panel behind the left kick panel. The gasser uses a circuit opening relay to power the fuel pump however the relay is dependent on 12 volts from the ignition switch and a signal from the large intake air flap (flap opens when engine begins drawing in air) to power the fuel pump circuit. Toyota had safety in mind as the fuel pump shuts off immediately with the engine if it stalls. The 1HD-FT doesn't have the same intake flap so I jumped the two terminals together. The relay won't be used. However, this means the fuel pump will activate anytime the key is in the "ON" position. From the relay location, the fuel pump wire runs back through the IL1 connector then on to the fuel tank.
This is fairly self explanatory. I un-pinned the 12 volt fuel pump wire from the main connector on top of the fuel tank and I pulled the wire back to this junction/connector point just forward of the left rear tire. I then ran the 12 volt fuel pump wire forward to the Walbro pump inside the rocker panel to protect it from damage. All connections/splices were soldered and then heat shrunk.
Fuel pump mount on driver side (LHD) frame rail. I used more of the heavy gauge tube caps, welded them on the frame, then drilled tapped through both the caps and the frame. I used 5/16x18 stainless studs which are secured in place with Loctite.
The gasser truck already has 12 volts back at the tank to run the factory in-tank pump. The diesel fuel pick-up obviously has no internal pump but I used the available 12 volts to power the Walbro pump. Getting the circuit energized took some time though....
This is the relay panel behind the left kick panel. The gasser uses a circuit opening relay to power the fuel pump however the relay is dependent on 12 volts from the ignition switch and a signal from the large intake air flap (flap opens when engine begins drawing in air) to power the fuel pump circuit. Toyota had safety in mind as the fuel pump shuts off immediately with the engine if it stalls. The 1HD-FT doesn't have the same intake flap so I jumped the two terminals together. The relay won't be used. However, this means the fuel pump will activate anytime the key is in the "ON" position. From the relay location, the fuel pump wire runs back through the IL1 connector then on to the fuel tank.
This is fairly self explanatory. I un-pinned the 12 volt fuel pump wire from the main connector on top of the fuel tank and I pulled the wire back to this junction/connector point just forward of the left rear tire. I then ran the 12 volt fuel pump wire forward to the Walbro pump inside the rocker panel to protect it from damage. All connections/splices were soldered and then heat shrunk.
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- Thread starter
- #290
316L bits installed....
- Thread starter
- #291
12 Volt conversion starter, fresh from Australia. Slowly but surely.....
Your motor looks so clean! I'd love to do this swap one day on my dads 97.
I don't know if you have tried yet, but any reputable alternator/starter shop should be able to convert your 24v units to 12v. Might save you some $$, or even be good as spares.
I don't know if you have tried yet, but any reputable alternator/starter shop should be able to convert your 24v units to 12v. Might save you some $$, or even be good as spares.
- Thread starter
- #293
Yes, I have definitely considered that and I plan on keeping one Toyota 24 volt unit to see if I can have it converted to 12 volt. It's always good to have a spare around
- Thread starter
- #294
Couple more P/N pics of odds/ends that arrived from the UAE. It's hard to wrap a project up without all the detail stuff.
- Thread starter
- #295
Clutch master cylinder to clutch slave cylinder conversion bits...
- Thread starter
- #296
I wrapped up a bunch of loose ends today. The 12 volt conversion starter is in along with the wiring harness for the transmission and transfer case...
Ford remote starter solenoid, P/N: E9TZ-11450-B
Stainless 3AN clutch master to clutch slave line is in...
I also finished plumbing all the heater lines. I had to bend the main copper tube slightly to get it to clear the rear portion of the valve cover. I found a 5/8" diameter line at a local parts store that had the correct 180 degree bend in it. I ended up only trimming about an 1" off of one end, it fits great. The Toyota parts were not available from the UAE and this cost me about $10 USD. The hose is GATES 18700 (made in USA)
Ford remote starter solenoid, P/N: E9TZ-11450-B
Stainless 3AN clutch master to clutch slave line is in...
I also finished plumbing all the heater lines. I had to bend the main copper tube slightly to get it to clear the rear portion of the valve cover. I found a 5/8" diameter line at a local parts store that had the correct 180 degree bend in it. I ended up only trimming about an 1" off of one end, it fits great. The Toyota parts were not available from the UAE and this cost me about $10 USD. The hose is GATES 18700 (made in USA)
FJRanger
SILVER Star
Agreed. There is so much goodness in this thread. I've replaced all pulley minus the main crank due to rust and loosing belts, but know the importance replacing the dampener. I had a 22re where it delaminated and cost me all new intake valves...
Thanks for including the pictures and part numbers.
- Thread starter
- #298
No problem
I'm sure I'll be referencing this myself in the future.I've been dreading mating the USA harness and Euro 1HD-FT harness together but this morning I finally mustered up the courage to start tackling it. The original plan was to leave the USA harness intact (with all the wires for the automatic transmission in place) get the truck and everything working correctly, then trim down all the unnecessary wires. I changed my mind as working with the harness all unraveled with wires going every which way complicated things badly.
Here's the USA harness all stripped down and ready for mating to the 1HD-FT harness. It's probably 1/3 its original size and it's very likely not all the wires in the harness will be used.
And here's what was stripped out of it...
I currently have the starter wire hooked up to the Ford solenoid and the oil pressure and water temp wires hooked up to the main harnesses. Unfortunately, my two harnesses are about 20" or so short so I have to extend everything to get it to fit right. All the connections are/will be soldered and the main harnesses will be joined with Delphi Weathpack connectors.
I also made up the battery cables between the main 12 volt battery, the Ford solenoid and the 12 volt starter. I had this stuff laying around so for once during this project, something cost me nothing
3" exhaust bits to construct the exhaust system from the turbo back are currently on the way. At this point, I need the 12 volt ignition hot wire for the IP shut-off wired in, exhaust run, fuel plumbed, cooling plumbed and technically this might actually start...
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Looking good with the wiring!
Here are several bits which arrived from Japan this week. The long one is the bracket which the console screws into at the rear. The 8 is the under support for the shifters which I plan on mating to a piece of 10" x 15" 14ga steel plate, replacing the plate from the ATM shifters. The best part about the 8 is that it works as a template where to cut the existing tunnel. Will post pics when I get to that point in the next week.
Here are several bits which arrived from Japan this week. The long one is the bracket which the console screws into at the rear. The 8 is the under support for the shifters which I plan on mating to a piece of 10" x 15" 14ga steel plate, replacing the plate from the ATM shifters. The best part about the 8 is that it works as a template where to cut the existing tunnel. Will post pics when I get to that point in the next week.
- Thread starter
- #300
Hmmm, those are some nice parts you sourced up Steve. I like the fact that the shifter support is also properly drilled for the lower boots. I'm guessing all that came from Japan4x4? Are you about ready to tear into your own project yet???
