It does suck indeed doing it with the radiator in place and the fan clutch in place. Putting them in altogether is so much easier.
Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap
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It does suck indeed doing it with the radiator in place and the fan clutch in place. Putting them in altogether is so much easier.
Speaking of fan shrouds, are you using the FZJ one (even possible?), or have you picked up the OEM diesel? Up to August 1996 = 16711-17010, and after = 16711-17011.
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- #224
That tool is available from Toyota, that particular one is on loan from a fellow MUD guy. It still took two adjustments of the clutch disc to get everything to go together.
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- #225
I don't know at this point, I haven't even started looking at the radiator or shroud yet. Thanks for the P/N's though.
I'm going to work on the tunnel and the crossmember mounts first before anything else. Back at work now so progress this week will be slow.
I'm still looking for a LHD 1HD-FT engine harness if anyone has one they want to part with.......looks like it's going to be very hard to track one down.
Your best bet might be to label the gas specific wiring for the engine, pull them out of the harness, then put in the diesel related stuff. I'm not familiar with the 1HDT or 80s for that matter but it was quite simple with my 12ht swap.
Motor looks awesome in there by the way!
Motor looks awesome in there by the way!
82111-60184 and one available from Partsouq for $162.23. Not sure if it would just be easier to use some of the RHD bits, and splice into the gasser LHD harness.
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- #228
I have none of the engine harness or electrical bits from the gasser with the exception of the cowl connectors, (above the glovebox) and part of the charging circuit (alternator plug/large wire lead) unfortunately. More or less starting from scratch and I need to figure out a solution for the 24 volt starting circuit.
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- #229
Thanks, I'll look at this P/N later
Ah okay, I thought you had both harnesses (gas and diesel) just the diesel was right hand drive. Ya I could see where getting a LHD harness would be ideal in your situation. I believe that the South American diesel 80s were LHD, so that might be a good place to start looking..
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- #231
I have a bunch of inquiries out at this point. Dave at Japan4x4 says it doesn't look promising on his end, we'll see if anyone else can turn something up. I'll be in Costa Rica this coming January, maybe I'll have to visit some junkyards....
Forget the 24 volt starter, I pulled mine out and went 12 volt, unless you are living in Siberia it is totally unnecessary.
Did mine a number of years ago, I was not sure it would work with plenty of nay sayers on various forums. Never having been a conformist, I modified a second hand HDJ 100 (same basic engine as yours) 12 volt starter and thought if it worked I would buy the proper 12 volt for the 80 version. Fitted it around four years ago and still have not purchased the proper starter as it works just fine, I guess I will do it soon...................
Info in my sig link.
regards
Dave
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- #233
Looking into the 12 volt starter option offered by Dave. Price wise, probably way cheaper since I'm missing so many of the needed 24 volt components. Bad news: I have two 24 volt starters sitting on the shelf right now 
My morning so far......
This is the hacked 1HD-FT harness I currently have. It came out of a RHD UK truck. I spent an hour+ metering the whole thing out and labeling it. I think I'm coming to grips with the whole mess at this point, it's really not THAT complicated since this is a manual conversion. It reminds me of good times with the GM Vortec harness
There are really two sides to this electrical harness, the engine management/controls and the transmission/transfer controls. The trans/transfer case side is controlled by the large grey (square) plug with shredded foam all over it in the upper center of the pic.
My morning so far......
This is the hacked 1HD-FT harness I currently have. It came out of a RHD UK truck. I spent an hour+ metering the whole thing out and labeling it. I think I'm coming to grips with the whole mess at this point, it's really not THAT complicated since this is a manual conversion. It reminds me of good times with the GM Vortec harness
There are really two sides to this electrical harness, the engine management/controls and the transmission/transfer controls. The trans/transfer case side is controlled by the large grey (square) plug with shredded foam all over it in the upper center of the pic.
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- #234
These two pics show the plugs behind/above the glovebox in my 96' USA model.
The large 22 pin plug is the main plug for the engine/transmission/transfer case controls (I assume) I don't know what the other three empty plugs go to. I doesn't help that I didn't take this thing apart. My guess is they fed the computer to the auto transmission (or something like that). Please chime in with your wisdom....
The large 22 pin plug is the main plug for the engine/transmission/transfer case controls (I assume) I don't know what the other three empty plugs go to. I doesn't help that I didn't take this thing apart. My guess is they fed the computer to the auto transmission (or something like that). Please chime in with your wisdom....
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- #235
So, how hard would it be to just source up the correct male plug for the engine/trans/transfer harness, extend it and plug it directly into the harness up above my glove box? I know Toyota used the same plugs on many different vehicles so finding the right one in a junkyard may not be that hard. I have a wiring diagram for the 96' and I'm assuming the colors are at least similar.
Am I crazy?
Not crazy! I noticed only recently that my dashboard gauge unit when unplugged exposed another unused plug. I identified it as a replacement if I wanted to fit the automatic transmission unit. I would pull the dashboard binnacle and see what you can match up from there. The diesel has way less electronics to consider so that in itself is a bonus.
In essence a supply for the diesel pump, your existing starter wiring will be fine although I am unsure what side your starter is on. The 24 v engine for an auto is quite rare as IIRC there were every few 24 valve auto's allowed into the UK due to emission regs that Mr T could not match, so barring the diesel pump solenoid you should be able to dump most everything else. There will have to be a heavy cable provision made for the heater matrix in the inlet manifold, choose a real good relay for this as the stock unit melts and causes problems. It is not really needed for cold starting but keeps emissions down until the engine has warmed. Personally in the event that you might end up somewhere really cold, I would get a Cole Hershee (is that spelt right?) solenoid, wiring it to a push to make switch, keep it on for 10 seconds and hit the starter, it will save finding a timer relay heavy enough to be reliable.
regards
Dave
In essence a supply for the diesel pump, your existing starter wiring will be fine although I am unsure what side your starter is on. The 24 v engine for an auto is quite rare as IIRC there were every few 24 valve auto's allowed into the UK due to emission regs that Mr T could not match, so barring the diesel pump solenoid you should be able to dump most everything else. There will have to be a heavy cable provision made for the heater matrix in the inlet manifold, choose a real good relay for this as the stock unit melts and causes problems. It is not really needed for cold starting but keeps emissions down until the engine has warmed. Personally in the event that you might end up somewhere really cold, I would get a Cole Hershee (is that spelt right?) solenoid, wiring it to a push to make switch, keep it on for 10 seconds and hit the starter, it will save finding a timer relay heavy enough to be reliable.
regards
Dave
I was wondering this same thing! The FSM has codes for harness types, I imagine there must be a part number system that translates to those codes.
Also, I'll take a look and see if I have a male connector that looks like that.
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I should be able to help you a little with the wiring as well. My truck is a 96 US model that was originally converted to a 1HDT with a 5 speed. The original gasser harness is still in there, and the 1HDT harness was used for the engine bay and transmission/transfer. Then the (s***ty) 1HDT burned up and I swapped in the 1HDFT (which uses the 1HDT harness without problems). So pretty much identical to what you are doing.
If you tell me in detail where to take pics of which plugs and connections I can do that. I am however in Singapore/Tokyo until Sunday afternoon, so nothing can happen before that.
cheers
Jan
If you tell me in detail where to take pics of which plugs and connections I can do that. I am however in Singapore/Tokyo until Sunday afternoon, so nothing can happen before that.
cheers
Jan
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I had to use an additional relay for the starter, since the original gasser one would not provide enough juice for the diesel 2.5kw starter. I think the 12V gas starter is only 0.5kw or so. But it was easy to wire a strong standard ford relay into the system and drive it with the stock one.
cheers,
Jan
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- #240
Basically I need to differentiate what is needed and what is not. Compared to the automatic trans and EFI gas engine (that was originally in the truck) what I need to wire is very little.
The vehicle still has the charging circuit/fuse box in place under the hood which is a big bonus. I'm just missing the entire EFI gas engine harness which I really don't think is a big deal at this point. If I had it, I probably just cut it up anyway for the correct connectors.
I want all the gauges to work of course but that is really only water temp, oil pressure, engine rpm's, charge circuit and speedo.
Nick, if you think you might have the right connectors and want to donate/sell them to the cause let me know...
Jan, as I get a bit further along with this I'll hit you up for some pics of how things are wired up above/behind your glovebox.
Dave, thanks for your input on the relays and what not. It's likely I'm going to try and get it going without the intake heater functioning then iron out some of the details down the road. Our emissions testing here is all done on a HOT engine so it shouldn't make much difference. The really big challenge will be prepping it to fire off and the ability to monitor the oil pressure and water temp.
The vehicle still has the charging circuit/fuse box in place under the hood which is a big bonus. I'm just missing the entire EFI gas engine harness which I really don't think is a big deal at this point. If I had it, I probably just cut it up anyway for the correct connectors.
I want all the gauges to work of course but that is really only water temp, oil pressure, engine rpm's, charge circuit and speedo.
Nick, if you think you might have the right connectors and want to donate/sell them to the cause let me know...
Jan, as I get a bit further along with this I'll hit you up for some pics of how things are wired up above/behind your glovebox.
Dave, thanks for your input on the relays and what not. It's likely I'm going to try and get it going without the intake heater functioning then iron out some of the details down the road. Our emissions testing here is all done on a HOT engine so it shouldn't make much difference. The really big challenge will be prepping it to fire off and the ability to monitor the oil pressure and water temp.