Builds Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap
- Thread starter Rock40
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- #262
Hmmmmm, thanks for the offer. I'll keep that in mind as I get to the wiring stage. I believe the new ones are all gone from what I've dug up
Removed the console on mine to check the fitment of the shifter, and have a better look at the transfer case lever. Funny that the t-case shifter on the ATM is essentially in the place where the MTM shifter will go. Happy with how things look, and had fun "rowing" through the gears. 
Still need the under mount/support bracket from Japan, but pretty happy with what arrived from Partsouq today. If the whole project were this easy...
Still need the under mount/support bracket from Japan, but pretty happy with what arrived from Partsouq today. If the whole project were this easy...
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- #264
Mmmmmm, sexy
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
I hope these pictures don't rock your boat? These two go on first, I doubt it is a big deal but helps with sound insulation from the rather agricultural gearbox sounds and additional help preventing water ingress.
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
My pics were simply a mock-up as the ATM is still lurking under the tunnel, so no worries. I have both of the gaiters/boots from the UK rig which will be used, and fit between the accordion-style boot and the tunnel. The bolt patterns are the same. I am still waiting for the LHD "support" bracket 58123-60010 from Japan which I believe will replace the gold anodized ATM support which is useless at this point, unless hacked apart.
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- #268
OH MAN! Cylcosteve, I couldn't believe it when I saw your pics and I though "How in the world did he get all that work done so quick!!" Lol, the jokes on me 
I realized that I have a very good collection of transfer shifters in my shop. I have the ATM version from a USA 93', a UK RHD (manual trans) and a UK RHD (auto trans) lying about. I'll take some comparison shots of them. I may use the USA model (ATM) but after I swap it onto the correct baseplate. I'm going down to fool around with it now......
I realized that I have a very good collection of transfer shifters in my shop. I have the ATM version from a USA 93', a UK RHD (manual trans) and a UK RHD (auto trans) lying about. I'll take some comparison shots of them. I may use the USA model (ATM) but after I swap it onto the correct baseplate. I'm going down to fool around with it now......
This guy makes plug and play looms to suit most applications give him a call.
Killa Kustom Auto Electrical
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- #270
This guy makes plug and play looms to suit most applications give him a call.
Killa Kustom Auto Electrical[/QUOTE
Will do, thanks
- Thread starter
- #271
OK, the transfer shifter is in and it fits great. 
I ended up using the shaft from a USA 93' model and the transfer base from a UK 5 speed. As stated before, the base (which bolts to the transfer) is much different between the USA 93' model and the overseas stuff. The shafts are the same length between the two. I'd be a bit happier if the shaft was a bit longer but it's very functional (aka it comes up into the boots/5 speed console in the correct location)
Swapping shafts is easy and it gives you a chance to grease everything up nicely. Just punch out the roll pin and go from there.
I ended up using the shaft from a USA 93' model and the transfer base from a UK 5 speed. As stated before, the base (which bolts to the transfer) is much different between the USA 93' model and the overseas stuff. The shafts are the same length between the two. I'd be a bit happier if the shaft was a bit longer but it's very functional (aka it comes up into the boots/5 speed console in the correct location)
Swapping shafts is easy and it gives you a chance to grease everything up nicely. Just punch out the roll pin and go from there.
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- #272
I also started the frame modification to bolt the 5 speed crossmember in place. My previous photo showing the location of the old auto trans mounts and the ne H151F mounts was correct. I need to get 4 "nutserts" into the frame to relocate the crossmember which now sits further than it's auto trans equivalent. Here's how I did it....
These are the correct 10mmx1.25 nuts which will match the factory crossmember bolts. I purchased two locally and robbed the other two from the factory auto transmission shifter assembly. Cheap........ The round metal pieces are actually designed to be DOM tube caps. They are the same thickness as the frame and I turned them down to just under 1 1/4" inches in diameter.
I then drilled out the center and welded the 10mmx1.25 nut on the back. I welded three sides of the nut, it doesn't have a ton of rotational force on it so no need to go totally crazy. It just needs to stay put. The picture makes it look like it's not drilled all the way through which is incorrect. There's a bolt installed and the whole bit was media blasted for the pic.
I marked the frame like this in order to make sure everything remained centered and the holes didn't "drift" during the process.
This is a drill guide I made so I can safely run a 1 1/4" hole saw up into the frame without having the damn think "walk" all over as it drills. Basically, it holds the 1/4" pilot bit in place and it is centered on the factory frame hole.
These are the correct 10mmx1.25 nuts which will match the factory crossmember bolts. I purchased two locally and robbed the other two from the factory auto transmission shifter assembly. Cheap........ The round metal pieces are actually designed to be DOM tube caps. They are the same thickness as the frame and I turned them down to just under 1 1/4" inches in diameter.
I then drilled out the center and welded the 10mmx1.25 nut on the back. I welded three sides of the nut, it doesn't have a ton of rotational force on it so no need to go totally crazy. It just needs to stay put. The picture makes it look like it's not drilled all the way through which is incorrect. There's a bolt installed and the whole bit was media blasted for the pic.
I marked the frame like this in order to make sure everything remained centered and the holes didn't "drift" during the process.
This is a drill guide I made so I can safely run a 1 1/4" hole saw up into the frame without having the damn think "walk" all over as it drills. Basically, it holds the 1/4" pilot bit in place and it is centered on the factory frame hole.
- Thread starter
- #273
Please don't cry......it's only a large hole in perfectly good FJ80 frame, I'll fix it
I then inserted my "nutsert", ensured it was level, even and lined up with my scribe marks, then I burned it in. Sanded and ready for paint at this point. One of the original auto trans mounts is just to the left of the new H151F mount.
What you have is basically what Toyota designed from the get go when they built these trucks. I just had to go about the process differently as Toyota adds the nutserts THEN welds the frame together. The hardest part was keeping the nutsert level and what not before welding it in. Three more to go now.....
I then inserted my "nutsert", ensured it was level, even and lined up with my scribe marks, then I burned it in. Sanded and ready for paint at this point. One of the original auto trans mounts is just to the left of the new H151F mount.
What you have is basically what Toyota designed from the get go when they built these trucks. I just had to go about the process differently as Toyota adds the nutserts THEN welds the frame together. The hardest part was keeping the nutsert level and what not before welding it in. Three more to go now.....
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Such a neat install, very impressed! My welding was so bad I sold the machine! I just could not get my head around it! Now years on I realise how essential it is to have the right welder, my old machine was completely useless for vehicle bodywork. Many years on when discussing the brand and model with a 'coded' welder when it was seen in the back ground of an old photo, it transpires it was perfect for inch thick girders, I could have welded Titanic back together!
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
- Thread starter
- #275
Thanks Dave, it pays to have the right tools. I use a Lincoln 220 volt MIG for the majority of the welding I do and a Hobart 110 volt for sheet metal work. The mechanical/fabrication portion of this project isn't that daunting really, the electrical though....
I finished the last three nutserts today and also modified the H151 crossmember (slightly) along with welding the factory crossmember frame mounts back on.
Here's a shot of one of the nutsert before welding it in. The edges of the nutsert are beveled to get full penetration on the weld.
Left hand side (drivers for USA model) frame rail prior to sanding
H151 crossmember, the little spacer thing needs to be removed as it's messing with the good mojo....cut out the two spotwelds to remove it.
After cutting the spot welds with a BLAIR cutter. The little nubbin left behind can just be ground off at this point. Mounting the H151 in this manner will net you roughly an amazing 1/8" or so of extra ground clearance
I finished the last three nutserts today and also modified the H151 crossmember (slightly) along with welding the factory crossmember frame mounts back on.
Here's a shot of one of the nutsert before welding it in. The edges of the nutsert are beveled to get full penetration on the weld.
Left hand side (drivers for USA model) frame rail prior to sanding
H151 crossmember, the little spacer thing needs to be removed as it's messing with the good mojo....cut out the two spotwelds to remove it.
After cutting the spot welds with a BLAIR cutter. The little nubbin left behind can just be ground off at this point. Mounting the H151 in this manner will net you roughly an amazing 1/8" or so of extra ground clearance
- Thread starter
- #276
This is the left hand side frame mount which has been relocated forward (toward the engine) and re-welded. In total, the H151 is located approximately 70mm (or 2 3/4") forward compared to it's automatic transmission counterpart.
View attachment 1159386
Before welding all this stuff in, I mounted the crossmember on the trans and bolted everything up. It fit perfect with ZERO drama
There is quite a bit of adjustment in the crossmember itself so as long as the nutserts are close, it will work. Once I knew it was right, all the mounts became permanent. The four 10mmx1.25 bolts in the above pic are where the crossemember will mount. It just needs paint now.
Total cost to modify/relocate the transmission crossmember forward= $.72 USD. I had to purchase two 10mmx1.25 nuts, that's it. If only the whole project could be done so cheaply
View attachment 1159386
Before welding all this stuff in, I mounted the crossmember on the trans and bolted everything up. It fit perfect with ZERO drama
There is quite a bit of adjustment in the crossmember itself so as long as the nutserts are close, it will work. Once I knew it was right, all the mounts became permanent. The four 10mmx1.25 bolts in the above pic are where the crossemember will mount. It just needs paint now.Total cost to modify/relocate the transmission crossmember forward= $.72 USD. I had to purchase two 10mmx1.25 nuts, that's it. If only the whole project could be done so cheaply
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Hey Ross, as soon as your truck is done you need to take a vacation/test run to California with it and your welder to do the same to my rig! Beautiful work. 
Hey Ross, as soon as your truck is done you need to take a vacation/test run to California with it and your welder to do the same to my rig! Beautiful work.
You're welcome to come to Canada and do the same! lol Super jealous, everything looks spot on.
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- #279
Thanks Gents! 
I picked up some wiring bits locally today....basically the other "missing" half of my engine harness. This is from a USA model donor truck which had an automatic transmission.
I thought this might not be too bad until I started looking at things a bit harder. The IH1 connector is a match to the main plug (female) which is above/behind the glovebox door on my LHD truck. The wire colors on my truck and the harness I just picked up (at the IH1 connector) are mostly the same too.
However, there is literally ZERO correlation in wire color between the 1HD-FT (UK version) and the USA version I picked up. The large BLACK/WHITE start wire is the same, that's about it
I pinned out the IH1 connector and labeled all those ends along with the loose wires on the main engine loom. Now it's a matter of sifting through who knows how many wiring diagrams trying to figure out which wires hook together. I'm pretty frustrated by it. To complicate matters worse, I cannot for the life of me figure out the starting circuit (12 volt) on my truck now. I'm metering it out and the starter wire (large black/white) is getting 12 volts as soon as the key is in the "ON" position. It's not right and doesn't make any sense.
I researched the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) stuff and of course, I'm missing that whole wiring loom assembly. I just don't understand the starting circuit at this point. For reference, I'm metering out 12 volts at the IH1 connector with the key "ON".
I picked up some wiring bits locally today....basically the other "missing" half of my engine harness. This is from a USA model donor truck which had an automatic transmission.
I thought this might not be too bad until I started looking at things a bit harder. The IH1 connector is a match to the main plug (female) which is above/behind the glovebox door on my LHD truck. The wire colors on my truck and the harness I just picked up (at the IH1 connector) are mostly the same too.
However, there is literally ZERO correlation in wire color between the 1HD-FT (UK version) and the USA version I picked up. The large BLACK/WHITE start wire is the same, that's about it
I pinned out the IH1 connector and labeled all those ends along with the loose wires on the main engine loom. Now it's a matter of sifting through who knows how many wiring diagrams trying to figure out which wires hook together. I'm pretty frustrated by it. To complicate matters worse, I cannot for the life of me figure out the starting circuit (12 volt) on my truck now. I'm metering it out and the starter wire (large black/white) is getting 12 volts as soon as the key is in the "ON" position. It's not right and doesn't make any sense.
I researched the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) stuff and of course, I'm missing that whole wiring loom assembly. I just don't understand the starting circuit at this point. For reference, I'm metering out 12 volts at the IH1 connector with the key "ON".
You need to download the EWD for the NA 1996 80 series to understand the wiring. The plug that is on the harness in the "middle" of the dash side is IH2, the other lump of wires at the "bottom" are all plugs that go into the ECU. Seriously, have a look at the notes in the 1HZ thread I referenced, he referes to the IH1 plug as IL1, but it is the same deal.
IH1 pin 21 should be your starter wire that goes to the NSS, then on to the starter.
IH1 pin 21 should be your starter wire that goes to the NSS, then on to the starter.
