Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

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I removed all the fuel lines and vent lines this morning in order to remove the main 8mm (tank to engine) feed line from the mix. All three lines run from the tank up to the engine bay. I needed to disconnect the parking brake cable (at the lever inside the cab) in order to get the lines all out in one piece. It's not easy to get that huge snake out of the truck without ruining it!!
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Love it or hate it.......I've got a thing about grease and oil. They belong in the engine/gearboxes, not covering the entire underside of the truck like an afterthought undercoating. I hate working on stuff and getting covered in grease. After hours of cleaning, it's "prepped" enough that I'm ready to put the drivetrain in. The two vent lines (minus the 8mm main feed line) are also back in the truck. I'm going to route a 12mm line from the tank independently.
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This pic shows the routing of the two vent lines on the driver (LHD) side of the vehicle plus the rear crossmember mount which will be removed shortly for relocation.
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Fairly productive day....the factory rear crossmember mounts are now removed from the frame. Not easy to say the least. The H151 is shorter than the auto trans so the whole works needs to move forward quite a bit. The frame has "nutserts" in place for the auto trans and there are pre-existing holes in the frame where I'm assuming the H151 will bolt up. I'm going to do welded in scab plates with "nutserts", (more or less) for mounting.
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The pic is distorted, the frame holes are actually equidistant
 
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You can obviously see where the old crossmember mount used to be. The frame was cleaned up with a mix of flap wheels and 3M 2" sanding discs. The sanding discs will allow you to get up underneath the brake lines without damaging them.

I tried to remove the rear crossmember mounts using a DREMEL with cut-off discs, no go. I found that the best way to do this was with a sawzall. Insert the blade (new, straight and sharp) as shown in the pic and carefully cut both sides. If you do it right, you won't damage the frame and the bracket will be completely re-usable.
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Right side frame rail
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Correct me if I am wrong about the 2 lines you reinstalled. One of them would be the return fuel line and the other is for the charcoal canister for the gasser. With the charcoal canister removed, no need for the hard line to the engine bay. The stock HDJ81 gas tank vents through a simple check valve right behind the tank.
 
You are probably correct, crap. This is a huge learning curve for me because I have nothing to compare this to. Time to pull it all back out.....
 
Rock40 said:
You are probably correct, crap. This is a huge learning curve for me because I have nothing to compare this to. Time to pull it all back out.....
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Its a big curve for me too. I am in nearly the same boat as you, with the same project, but a couple weeks behind. I have a mostly intact HDJ81 to compare to and rob parts from however, which helps. My first diesel as well. Watching this thread is like cheating for me though :)

I wouldnt tear the lines out. You can still run the vent in the engine bay, but would think a check valve would be a good idea there anyway. Either way you will need the return line.

Let me know if you want pictures of anything that would be helpful from the HDJ.
 
tweeek said:
Its a big curve for me too. I am in nearly the same boat as you, with the same project, but a couple weeks behind. I have a mostly intact HDJ81 to compare to and rob parts from however, which helps. My first diesel as well. Watching this thread is like cheating for me though :)

I wouldnt tear the lines out. You can still run the vent in the engine bay, but would think a check valve would be a good idea there anyway. Either way you will need the return line.

Let me know if you want pictures of anything that would be helpful from the HDJ.
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I wish I had a diesel just laying around to compare this crap too, that'd make it SOOOOO much easier. Oh well, live and learn. I'm looking at my hacked up 24 valve wiring harness now, what a mess :mad: Somebody got lazy and just whacked if off at the firewall instead of taking 10 extra minutes to take it apart correctly......I see hours of wiring diagrams in my future.
 
You could leave that vent line in place and mount your tank breather high in the engine bay?

You've done a brilliant job cleaning the underside of you vehicle too!
 
Sealing floor with new plate or any other technique prove to be to much to my skills .. I did not accomplish that mission the way I would like in my manual tranny swap.

BTW I was able to use 2 of the 4 holes on the frame for the new position on the cross member ( for manual tranny ) and did some magic for the other 2 holes ..
 
Love the trans tunnel/underside cleaning, doing a great job! @Tweek beat me to it on the canister lines, I have been house sitting so no internet (or phone signal) where I was, jeeez it was like having my arm cut off!

Your getting there mate,

regards

Dave
 
Rock,

I ordered the proper LHD harness that goes from behind the glove box out to the engine bay instead of cutting and splicing. Everything is there that way and super clean as well. Adapt the engine to the truck not the truck to the engine, it is much simpler that way.

Dave Stedman @ Japan 4X4 or Akella, both are on Mud and would be more than happy to help I'm sure.

My $.02 anyway.
 
Thanks Gents :D I will get in touch with Japan4X4 about the harness. I was working on getting another harness from the UK however my contact over there has not replied and the price was OUCH.

I may leave the extra vent line or rig it so it vents into the engine bay with a check valve, we'll see.

Workhorse, do you have to have the P/N for the LHD 1HD-FT harness? I've looked on several different sites and can't find it.
 
Rear engine plate and flywheel on...
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Clutch disc and clutch cover on...
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Throwout bearing, clutch release arm, pivot and boot installed....
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Transmission on, Transfer case going on...Received some much needed assistance from my good friend Gene during all of this. Trans and transfer are HEAVY
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It's IN, good grief. It took me all afternoon to get the drivetrain in the truck. My wife helped at first getting the engine lined up with the truck but took off to watch a movie with a friend when things started getting ugly. The transfer case made the whole assembly VERY mis-weighted and I realized about 1/2 way through that the front bumper and valance needed to come off in order to be able to push the lift in far enough. Oh yeah, and the front tires had to come off also to lower the truck down enough. I have a big beam in the shop and the lift was going in interfere with it, PITA.

After a battle of inches involving wiggling, pushing and pleading with the damn thing, it's done. If I was a zookeeper trying to get two elephants to mate I'm assuming it would have gone something like my activities this afternoon.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^ Agreed!

I would just mention you should drop the fan shroud behind the fan before you fit the rad, unsure about the petrol versions but it is a PITA on the diesels.

regards

Dave
 
Dave 2000 said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^ Agreed!

I would just mention you should drop the fan shroud behind the fan before you fit the rad, unsure about the petrol versions but it is a PITA on the diesels.

regards

Dave
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Same with the petrols as well. I always put the shroud in. With the 3B I did the shroud, radiator and fan clutch at the same time then mounted forward and then backward.
 
OGBeno said:
Same with the petrols as well. I always put the shroud in. With the 3B I did the shroud, radiator and fan clutch at the same time then mounted forward and then backward.
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Good info on the shroud, I wondered about that. I'm a LONG way from plumbing this though
 
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