Engine shutting off during long trips. (1 Viewer)

[1meancruiser]

Another data point--on trip from Los Angeles to Houston last week. Filled up with 91 (my usual drink of choice) in Palm Desert, California. Smooth freeway driving till I get into Phoenix, where I hit traffic. It's blazing hot (111F indicated), and I have roughly a third of a tank of fuel. Coasting down to a traffic jam by PHX airport, I notice throttle is no longer responding. I had enough momentum to shift into N (engine stalled at this point, lost power steering), and pull onto the shoulder.

No smell of gasoline, or any abnormal noises. Gas cap opened without hissing or anything. Waited for about half hour before it would run again. My next planned stop was the Costco in Tempe for fuel, so I hit the road again, and the car stalls while I'm on the offramp, in the turn lane.... Sat with hazards on hoping not to get run into.

The first time I had this issue was wheeling in the mountains, after stopping to take some scenic photos, and that time I definitely smelled gas and heard gurgles. The second time was also while wheeling, idle coasting down a trail full of snow after a climb. Don't remember if the gas cap hissed or smelled.

This time was the third confirmed time, but no smell or pressure release at gas cap. Also had my wife with me, who was ready to put her foot down and turn us around. Sitting on the side of the freeway in late afternoon heat was not fun.

After that, every time we stopped for fuel, I let the car sit with cap open while we took a break. My brother (same car) suggested I drive with the cap not tightened all the way, so I did. Don't know if that helped or not, but no further issues. No CEL or pending codes either (in the past I got misfires and catalyst efficiency low, from crank and hold, and trying to run the engine with throttle).

The gas cap gasket was changed about 109k, car is currently at 206k. I'm concerned about the return drive, especially during the hot and high portions of NM and AZ, and dreading the city traffic that is PHX.

PSKHAAT says it's made worse by higher octane fuel, which is interesting observation, so I may run the lowest available octane for the trip (not towing, stock everything, and drive like a grandpa I'm told).

Definitely when I get back, going to have some heat shielding put in between the cat and the fuel line, and if possible some insulation around the gas line as well. It was the plan this summer, but had something come up where I had to drive to Houston on short notice.

one last note, your driving a 2006 and I I don't know if Lexus, the same as Toyota, switch toVVTI motors in 2006. If they did, you're going to want to upgrade your fuel pump. You may have an earlier 2006 fuel pump which is not the upgraded model. There is a factory upgrade and if you replace your fuel pump, I don't believe you can get the older fuel pump. Private message me if you have any other questions good luck on your trip.

 

[iddibhai]

Thanks @1meancruiser. The fuel pump is probably on the to-do list at some point, since as you suspect I may have an early model revision (vehicle production date 07/2005).

For now I've put a new OEM gas cap, and my next mod will be some heat shielding. About to spend some serious $ on brakes and bushings so hope I can put off the fuel pump for a little later (already changed fuel filter).

Those of you who have wrapped the fuel line, do you have a recommended product that I can purchase? The shop I'm going to, said they don't have anything but happy to install whatever I bring. Would like to have it in place before my next drive through through SW desert and over the rockies coming up soon...

 

[turbotoyz]

I'm a believer... Last summer I stopped at the Bear Creek Falls overlook between Ouray and Silverton and the truck wouldn't restart. After letting it sit with the hood up for about 30 minutes, it finally fired. It hasn't had a problem since.

We started the day in Grand Junction so we were on the road a few hours and the truck was hot. The fuel pump had been replaced a few months earlier with a Toyota OEM replacement, but am still running the original charcoal canister.

Said truck, caught while behaving badly:

View attachment 2150629

I had similar issue last weekend. Filled up at Montrose with 91 octane (~5800ft elevation) and headed up to Red Mountain pass stopping along the way, but the truck was idling, to take pictures. At the pass shut turn off the engine and walked around. When I went to start the engine it cranked and stumbled to life for a few seconds. Ended up popping the hood for 30 mins and away we went.

 

[Mattsfishingfor]

07 lx470. New to me this year in January. First off thank you for this thread!! Had the first issue 4 weeks ago driving on a hot day. Stopped at a light after having both A.Cs going on a 95 degree day ( Albuquerque) and car lacked power and almost stalled. Got it home, took it to mechanic. He cleaned the mass air censor. Thought it was fixed then drove again last weekend 102 degrees, both a.c.s going ( brand new baby 4 months old ) and it did it again. Didn't look at fuel but it died 3 houses from my house in the middle of the street. Turned it off waited 5 minutes, it started right up got it home. Took it to my mechanic again, could not figure out anything and then I found this beautiful thread. In process of heat taping and trying to buy fuel pump, will change out gas cap. Went to Auto zone, O'Reillys, and advanced auto parts and bought out what they had. Wanted to ask what this hose goes too? Bleeder? I will try to repost after I figure out which fuel lines I need to rap. Any detailed pics would help. Thanks again for this awesome thread!

 

[iddibhai]

^ That was some of the heat shielding I was looking at as well, but unsure if one is better than another, or more suitable for this purpose.

 

[Mattsfishingfor]

^ That was some of the heat shielding I was looking at as well, but unsure if one is better than another, or more suitable for this purpose.

There is a bunch of you tube videos showing a guy with a blow torch on one side and a temp gage on the other and it stays at 85 degrees. I wanted to ask, has anyone had any luck with the bosch pump? I saw a YouTube video of a guy installing one. No one has mentioned the bosch one, only O.E.

 

[2001LC]

07 lx470. New to me this year in January. First off thank you for this thread!! Had the first issue 4 weeks ago driving on a hot day. Stopped at a light after having both A.Cs going on a 95 degree day ( Albuquerque) and car lacked power and almost stalled. Got it home, took it to mechanic. He cleaned the mass air censor. Thought it was fixed then drove again last weekend 102 degrees, both a.c.s going ( brand new baby 4 months old ) and it did it again. Didn't look at fuel but it died 3 houses from my house in the middle of the street. Turned it off waited 5 minutes, it started right up got it home. Took it to my mechanic again, could not figure out anything and then I found this beautiful thread. In process of heat taping and trying to buy fuel pump, will change out gas cap. Went to Auto zone, O'Reillys, and advanced auto parts and bought out what they had. Wanted to ask what this hose goes too? Bleeder? I will try to repost after I figure out which fuel lines I need to rap. Any detailed pics would help. Thanks again for this awesome thread!View attachment 2373104View attachment 2373104View attachment 2373106View attachment 2373104

Denso 950-0210 (fit 06-07) is not series 100. List for other 4.7L works fine in 06-07 ~$100
or
2322050160 Toyota PUMP ASSY, FUEL W/FILTER, Price: 358.16$, Weight: 0.7kg - PartSouq - Auto Parts Around the World PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World ~$400 list

 

[jerryb]

that 12x24 fiber glass sheet is perfect size if you're covering the stock heat shield and adding sheet metal that extends down from it about 6 inches or so. That's what protects the rail, that caries the fuel lines.

the 950 0210 is cheap and is a drop in replacement, identical to the original. Other brands will work with alteration to make them fit. But only that denso will have the same leakdown characteristics of the stock pump. It's the one you want.
installing a new pump may not be your issue though. Hopefully your mechanic is on the ball. Lots of things could be out of whack for it to die on the side of the road.

wrapping the fuel lines down there with the velcro or zip ties does that same thing as the shield. But all that is a band aid to a different problem that no one solution will ever fix for a group of cars that big and that old.
Works for me though.

good fiberglass fire blankets are expensive. Adhesive backed even more so. But they work. a good 12x24" on amazon is 30$

 

[1meancruiser]

I had a trip planned to Yellowstone with the family and prior to taking a trip, I took the time to wrap the fuel line with heat shield mat. the material I use a similar to the one I have attached to a link below. I used it on my firewall of my race car and I had an extra supply laying around so I don't know the exact brand. I believe any product similar to this would work fine.

Amazon product ASIN B073RLZPJ7
the trip entailed a total of 2800 miles through six different states in temperatures varying from the mid 30s and up to 113°. Elevation changes from 1500 feet up to 8000 feet. And there were absolutely no issues! on a recent trip, a couple of months back, I drove in the mid 70s temperature from 4000 feet elevation up to 10,000 feet, and although I had no issues. When I shut off the vehicle I had trouble starting it and had to give it a few minutes as I heard hissing from the gas cap after opening it. But this most recent modification of wrapping the fuel line seems to have resolved everything.

below is a picture of the fuel line and the return fuel line wrapped, just before and next to the sheet metal heat shield i attached.

and below are the fuel lines past the cat, running up, parallel to the exhaust pipe, to the engine compartment.

 

[1meancruiser]

^ That was some of the heat shielding I was looking at as well, but unsure if one is better than another, or more suitable for this purpose.

any of the heat shield mats work the same, as long as there is a barrier between the cat and the fuel lines.

 

[1meancruiser]

07 lx470. New to me this year in January. First off thank you for this thread!! Had the first issue 4 weeks ago driving on a hot day. Stopped at a light after having both A.Cs going on a 95 degree day ( Albuquerque) and car lacked power and almost stalled. Got it home, took it to mechanic. He cleaned the mass air censor. Thought it was fixed then drove again last weekend 102 degrees, both a.c.s going ( brand new baby 4 months old ) and it did it again. Didn't look at fuel but it died 3 houses from my house in the middle of the street. Turned it off waited 5 minutes, it started right up got it home. Took it to my mechanic again, could not figure out anything and then I found this beautiful thread. In process of heat taping and trying to buy fuel pump, will change out gas cap. Went to Auto zone, O'Reillys, and advanced auto parts and bought out what they had. Wanted to ask what this hose goes too? Bleeder? I will try to repost after I figure out which fuel lines I need to rap. Any detailed pics would help. Thanks again for this awesome thread!View attachment 2373104View attachment 2373104View attachment 2373106View attachment 2373104

the three lines you see running parallel to the cat , on the left side of the cat, are the fuel line and the fuel return line.

 

[Pskhaat]

Since there is no active heat exchange system by wrapping fuel lines, than means that the fuel lines will conversely take much longer to cool down. I’m torn.

 

[2001LC]

I had a trip planned to Yellowstone with the family and prior to taking a trip, I took the time to wrap the fuel line with heat shield mat. the material I use a similar to the one I have attached to a link below. I used it on my firewall of my race car and I had an extra supply laying around so I don't know the exact brand. I believe any product similar to this would work fine.

Amazon product ASIN B073RLZPJ7
the trip entailed a total of 2800 miles through six different states in temperatures varying from the mid 30s and up to 113°. Elevation changes from 1500 feet up to 8000 feet. And there were absolutely no issues! on a recent trip, a couple of months back, I drove in the mid 70s temperature from 4000 feet elevation up to 10,000 feet, and although I had no issues. When I shut off the vehicle I had trouble starting it and had to give it a few minutes as I heard hissing from the gas cap after opening it. But this most recent modification of wrapping the fuel line seems to have resolved everything.

below is a picture of the fuel line and the return fuel line wrapped, just before and next to the sheet metal heat shield i attached.
View attachment 2377122

and below are the fuel lines past the cat, running up, parallel to the exhaust pipe, to the engine compartment.
View attachment 2377123

Did you happen to do anything to or with coolant system or anything under the hood pre trip?
Did you monitor engine water temp, during this trip? If so can you share the data, including OAT in relation to water temp?

Note: Reading on dash of water temp, useless for engine water temp data collection.

 

[1meancruiser]

Did you happen to do anything to or with coolant system or anything under the hood pre trip?
Did you monitor engine water temp, during this trip? If so can you share the data, including OAT in relation to water temp?

Note: Reading on dash of water temp, useless for engine water temp data collection.

I didn't monitor the water temp and did not do anything else to the vehicle or under the hood...only the fuel line wrap.

 

[1meancruiser]

Since there is no active heat exchange system by wrapping fuel lines, than means that the fuel lines will conversely take much longer to cool down. I’m torn.

why would the fuel lines heat up in the first place, or heat up to have any significant consequences, if they are insulated? If you look at the wrapping and the heat shield, those insulated areas only contribute to a constant source of SIGNIFICANT heat from the exhaust and cats...

 

[Pskhaat]

why would the fuel lines heat up in the first place... if they are insulated?

Just as stated, because there is no heat exchange other than the fuel itself. On a long trail or day's tour, insulation or not, eventually it will get just as hot; insulation just slowing heat absoption. Then when the vehicle is turned off will not be allowed the same rate of air cooling.

 

[Mattsfishingfor]

Just as stated, because there is no heat exchange other than the fuel itself. On a long trail or day's tour, insulation or not, eventually it will get just as hot; insulation just slowing heat absoption. Then when the vehicle is turned off will not be allowed the same rate of air cooling.

But when the car is off, the catalytic converter won't be radiating heat on to fuel lines when there insulated. There for the, the lines stay cooler. I might purchase a cheap laser thermometer and test this out. I too need more data, but for now the $60 worth of insulation tape I bought is way cheaper then a new fuel pump

 

[Mattsfishingfor]

 

[Mattsfishingfor]

View attachment 2379561View attachment 2379562View attachment 2379563

Wanted to show with the products I purchased in an earlier post. The ones I used were the velcro insulation and the metal sticky foil. Didn't use the slide over covers. Next, building a tunnel!

 

[MTBKC]

I recently did a trip from So. Cal to Colorado in my 2006 LX (68k miles all dealer serviced) and experienced the same stalling issue. Ambient temperature was over 100 degrees and when I hit road construction in Cortez CO the car died at while idling, same happend on the return while stopping in Las Vegas.

Long story short I just got the car back from the dealer who couldn't replicate the problem, but replaced the fuel pump and relay. They wanted to replace the Fuel Pump Resistor but apparently the part number is 23080-50170 is discontinued, this part puts out 0.97 ohms. Doing some searching the earlier models and 2006 landcruiser use part number 23080-50061 which produces 0.73 ohms. Why would Lexus change the ohms mid production and would this contribute to the stalling at idle? Just a curious observation, any thoughts?