Engine replacement thread and seeking advice (1 Viewer)

[FamilyCamper]

Just bought a 2000LC with 367k! Engine is assumed toast as the radiator blew and the engine lost all power when the PO was driving. I already have a new engine out of a 99LC with around 150k. Planning to do some diagnostics on the current engine before I pull it but I have some questions.
1. Donor motor has full ecu and wiring attached, should I pull current motor the same way or reuse the current ECU? What do I need to look out for with this part?
2. Any tips on detaching transmission from engine before pulling or other engine pulling/reinstall tips.

My plan is to replace radiator, thermostat, radiator hoses, starter, header gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, maybe water pump and timing belt + other related components if I cannot find any documentation of replacement. What else would you change while the motor is out and easy to work on?

I will try and update this thread with progress and findings as I go along. Pic of the donor motor attached.

 

[excessive]

I have pulled and replaced the engine in my 100 series. It is fairly straightforward, i did use a transmission jack to help angle the transmission up, which is a lot more important for putting the engine back in than getting it out. disconnect your engine wiring harness from behind the glovebox and pull it through to the engine bay. all the bolts on the back of the transmission are fairly easy to get to, and of course you need to be able to rotate the engine to reach all of the torque converter bolts.

I would use your original wiring harness and ECU unless there is something wrong with them.
I would recommend replacing the exhaust manifolds if you have any concerns about cracks, as it is 1000% easier to do with the engine out. ( I did these as well as engine mounts just because they were already out)

 

[Zuberg]

1. Not sure on the ECUs. Might be easiest to keep the ECU w/ the engine it came with.

2. My first time pulling one of these but it's pretty straight forward. 2nd set of hands will make it easier when undoing the torque converter bolts. Can leave the hood, just undo the struts and tie the hood up higher. The trans oil cooler lines are the only tricky things I've found so far. Undo the harness at the ECU and bring the loom through the firewall. Can leave the compressor lines connected and lay it down. Or disconnect the lines, pull the compressor with the motor and re-charge once back in.

I'm about ready to lift the motor out on mine for a full re-seal. Sounds like you're going to do all the engine related seals, rear main, oil pump o ring on front and the same o ring on the rear of the motor? Check motor mounts. Great time for new radiator if needed. Fan bracket too. Mission creep can turn to mission sprawl when pulling the motor....

Good time to address any issues with steering rack or the front diff as well. I'm swapping in a new rack and doing all the diff seals and bushings at the same time.
Good luck!

 

[FamilyCamper]

@excessive thanks for the tips, I would like to reuse the headers on the donor engine but need to do some inspection to make sure there are no cracks. @Zuberg I had not though of doing the seals but I will order those as I would not like to encounter leaks and have to do these down the line once its much harder. thanks for the tips about the lines.

 

[AARONTLC]

I have pulled and replaced the engine in my 100 series. It is fairly straightforward, i did use a transmission jack to help angle the transmission up, which is a lot more important for putting the engine back in than getting it out. disconnect your engine wiring harness from behind the glovebox and pull it through to the engine bay. all the bolts on the back of the transmission are fairly easy to get to, and of course you need to be able to rotate the engine to reach all of the torque converter bolts.

I would use your original wiring harness and ECU unless there is something wrong with them.
I would recommend replacing the exhaust manifolds if you have any concerns about cracks, as it is 1000% easier to do with the engine out. ( I did these as well as engine mounts just because they were already out)

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Ahhh! Work of art it is.

 

[excessive]

heres my thread where i talk more about removing the engine

my living nightmare. valve cover gasket replacement turns into engine out job

Let me start by saying that i feel i am a fairly competent mechanic. I have been working on cruisers (and other cars) for over 20 years. I have even rebuilt a 1Fz-Fe engine in one of my 80 series in the past. I know my way around, or at least i pretend to. I went to replace the badly leaking...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[FamilyCamper]

Got the new cruiser in the driveway and parts ordered! Appreciate the delivery and find @matzell

 

[matzell]

Do the valve cover gaskets while it is out. If a bolt breaks, it is a lot easier to do out of the vehicle!!!!!!!! You are going to have a nice ride when done. And thanks again for buying it so I did not have too!

 

[kevgentile]

The ECM isn't just tied into the motor but other components throughout the vehicle, hence the 3 or 4 different ECM part numbers that exist for the same model year. It's easy enough to pull the glove box and check you ECM part number. If it's not the same number and you swap them out then some features/functions may no longer work.

Remember that '99's didn't have traction control and your 2000 does. The ECM will be tied into the system. I'm 99% certain that there is nothing different on the motors from '99 to '00 so your best bet is to retain the stock ECM. Again, just verify the part number to confirm.

 

[FamilyCamper]

The ECM isn't just tied into the motor but other components throughout the vehicle, hence the 3 or 4 different ECM part numbers that exist for the same model year. It's easy enough to pull the glove box and check you ECM part number. If it's not the same number and you swap them out then some features/functions may no longer work.

Remember that '99's didn't have traction control and your 2000 does. The ECM will be tied into the system. I'm 99% certain that there is nothing different on the motors from '99 to '00 so your best bet is to retain the stock ECM. Again, just verify the part number to confirm.

This is helpful thank you. So basically I can use the entire wiring loom that is attached to the engine and just plug it into my current ECM.

 

[FamilyCamper]

Did some small stuff this week including an initial clean on the outside and new struts for the hood and rear hatch so I can have some easier access when working on it. These struts worked out great and also cheap. Exact fitment and length as OEM. A-Premium Hood and Tailgate Rear... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WT9RB5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Just did a compression test to verify the engine was bad and I got expected results. 30psi in three cylinders and 90 in 1. I stopped checking after that as it's so bad. Going to keep taking stuff apart.

 

[FamilyCamper]

@2001LC was reading though your unicorn build and some other threads where you commented on engine replacement. I saw you mention 2000-2002 compatible. This cruiser is a 2000 and the engine I am putting in is from a 99. "Find yourself an LC or LX 00-02 engine and it's a straight swap. 98-99 or 03-05 you'll want your throttle body and a few brackets."

Do you know off the top of your head what brackets and whats different about the throttle body? Ill take note to make sure everything lines up once I have both engines out on the ground

Also this engine has no oil in it currently, should I put some in and turn the crank prior to install?? Anything else I should do (not too intense) for a motor thats been sitting in a shop for over a year to make sure Im setting this up for success?

 

[2001LC]

You'll just use your old parts, like T-body. Which older T-body 89-99 had issues, so your current (newer manufactured) has less chance of issues. Everything will line up. Difference between 98-98 and 00-02 is very minimal. Just use what you have/need from your old engine, that appears different. The 98-~Dec 00, have smaller diameter PCV nipple for the hose, on BK2 head cover. Either swap head covers, or use the 98-99 BK2 PCV hose.

Adding oil to crankcase/pan, without running engine. Has very little to no benefit. Since we must run engine to get oil pump working and move oil throughout engine.

 

[jahawk]

Dude, throw a radiator in it and try and get it running! I've seen this issue before, in my buddies truck after heater T failure. Started right up after fixing T's and adding fluid, and is still running today. My assumption would be that after a certain length of time at excessive temps. the ECU shuts things down.

Jim

 

[FamilyCamper]

You'll just use your old parts, like T-body. Which older T-body 89-99 had issues, so your current (newer manufactured) has less chance of issues. Everything will line up. Difference between 98-98 and 00-02 is very minimal. Just use what you have/need from your old engine, that appears different. The 98-~Dec 00, have smaller diameter PCV nipple for the hose, on BK2 head cover. Either swap head covers, or use the 98-99 BK2 PCV hose.

Adding oil to crankcase/pan, without running engine. Has very little to no benefit. Since we must run engine to get oil pump and move oil throughout engine.

Thanks so much. Makes sense about the oil, appreciate it.

 

[FamilyCamper]

Dude, throw a radiator in it and try and get it running! I've seen this issue before, in my buddies truck after heater T failure. Started right up after fixing T's and adding fluid, and is still running today. My assumption would be that after a certain length of time at excessive temps. the ECU shuts things down.

Jim

I wish it were that simple. This one had the radiator replaced recently and then it blew out throwing coolant everywhere, that combined with the low compression readings and that it's a 360k engine and I'm just going to put the younger engine in.

 

[FamilyCamper]

motor is out!! This pic is the motor fully free just not lifted out. Not too much trouble, the torque converter did try and hold onto the motor but with some pry bars was able to keep it w the tranny. Some weirdness with the trans cooler lines but we took them out altogether and it worked out. It the future we know to leave them in and disconnect the o2 wire that wraps around them. Thanks a ton to @Land Shark and @Toyodajunkie who lent a hand.

 

[LJE]

motor is out!! This pic is the motor fully free just not lifted out. Not too much trouble, the torque converter did try and hold onto the motor but with some pry bars was able to keep it w the tranny. Some weirdness with the trans cooler lines but we took them out altogether and it worked out. It the future we know to leave them in and disconnect the o2 wire that wraps around them. Thanks a ton to @Land Shark and @Toyodajunkie who lent a hand.

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Hey that looks familiar! Those dang trans cooler lines threw me for a loop when I went to pull my engine out. Pro tip - when you go to put the engine back in, don't connect the passenger side O2 sensor to it's wiring prior to putting the engine in - you'll need to route that wire around the trans cooler lines. That's fresh in your mind now, but if you're like me, you'll forget that by the time you go to put the other engine in... haha.

 

[FamilyCamper]

Hey that looks familiar! Those dang trans cooler lines threw me for a loop when I went to pull my engine out. Pro tip - when you go to put the engine back in, don't connect the passenger side O2 sensor to it's wiring prior to putting the engine in - you'll need to route that wire around the trans cooler lines. That's fresh in your mind now, but if you're like me, you'll forget that by the time you go to put the other engine in... haha.

Good call thank you!

 

[FamilyCamper]

So the flex plate on the new engine is a little rusty from sitting around. Any reason I should transfer the old flex plate to the new engine or is that a bad idea?