Engine Coolant Replacement (1 Viewer)

[Timmy65]

Happy New Year Everyone!

Here's a New Years Day video to watch while you're nursing your hangover.

Preventative maintenance like Renewing your Engine Coolant is very important. As the coolant ages, it becomes more acidic and loses its corrosion-inhibiting properties. When this happens, the coolant can start eating away metal and rust can actually start forming within the cooling system. Anyone that has performed more than basic engine maintenance has most likely seen pitting on block surfaces, head surfaces, intake manifolds, and on coolant piping. Acidic coolant can degrade gaskets resulting in expensive repairs like head gasket failures. So, it's very important to renew your coolant at regular intervals to maintain its alkalinity and anti-corrosive properties.

I realize renewing coolant is a very basic job that a large percentage of you already know how to properly perform, but this video is for those just getting into Auto Mechanics and know very little about performing preventative maintenance on their vehicle(s).

I hope Y'all enjoy the video. Happy Wrenching and Happy New Year!

Engine Coolant Replacement 4.7L 2UZ-FE V8 (Land Cruiser, LX470, GX470, Tundra, Sequoia, 4runner) - Timmy the Toolman

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[plainjanefjc]

I watched this yesterday- as always thank you for the great content!

 

[2001LC]

Another great DIY video. Keep them coming Timmy!

FWIW:
Block drain peacock 9ft-lbf torque

98-03 Toyota LL 100% (red) mix 50/50 with distilled water. Flushed the earlier of 2 yr or 30K

04-up Toyota SLL 50/50 premix (pink). Flushed the earlier of 10 yr 100K first flush, thereafter 5 yr 50K miles.

Personally like the soon flush schedule, of "red" systems. Red, also lends itself, to chemical followed clear D water flushing.
Pink (pre mix), which states never add water. If I must add D-water, after a chemical flush. I'll blow out the system. Which I can then, get ~3.7 gal. Add back 3.7 gal pink, but flush again 2yr 30K for next two flushes, to get D-water out. Then pick back up, the 5yr 50K mile flush of SLL pink schedule.

Shop air pressure set to ~17PSI.

Catch can, must have air pressure relief hole cut in it.

The 100 series has a glitch, in expansion take (reservoir) system. Where it's reservoir will not function as designed. Unless, radiator fill to the cap so no air in system (top of radiator). If air pocket devoples, which they often do, when block drained. We come out the next day after 8 hour cool down. Check under radiator cap and top. Repeat until no air gap found. Vehicle needs to be level. It's, best if front end higher than rear, and done before sun up (OAT raises). This puts high point at top of radiator, which air travels too highgest point.

BTW:
I save a bit of time, by not removing tires. I come up from below to get at block drains.
98-02 Passenger side. Long extension (18 to 24") with swivel 10mm socket. Between frame & T-bar bracket. Or just a 10mm gearwrench.
03-07 passenger side, has AT lines in the way of extension and socket. So I use a 10mm gearwrench.
98-07 DS: Long extension (18 to 24") with 10mm socket.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Timmy65]

Thanks for the torque value for the block drains.

I never go by time for any preventative maintenance, only miles.

The only time I will flush coolant is if it looks bad or I'm swapping to a different coolant, like when I bought my 2000 4runner and it came with a green coolant, most likely Prestone, and I flushed the system with distilled water before I converted it to Toyota Red.

What I failed to mention in the video, which I normally do is having the tires off facilitates us getting better shots for filming. You absolutely could get to the block drains without removing the tires.

 

[2001LC]

I've a 24K miles 2006 LC, being transported to me now.
No coolant flushes, in its history. I may be doing a T-belt service on it. If so, block pitting or lack of, under water pump gasket, should be revealing. As to if time is important.

Over the last 10 years. All water pump gaskets surface areas on the block, of 4.7L. That i've seen, had some level of pitting on block.

 

[Timmy65]

I've a 24K miles 2006 LC, being transported to me now.
No coolant flushes, in its history. I may be doing a T-belt service on it. If so, block pitting or lack of, under water pump gasket, should be revealing. As to if time is important.

Over the last 10 years. All water pump gaskets surface areas on the block, of 4.7L. That i've seen, had some level of pitting on block.

I've done the same thing with the 1282B FIPG when I saw significant pitting along the area where the gasket seals.