Engine replacement thread and seeking advice (1 Viewer)

[LJE]

So the flex plate on the new engine is a little rusty from sitting around. Any reason I should transfer the old flex plate to the new engine or is that a bad idea?

FWIW, those bolts (IMO) are 1 time use based on the torquing routine - definitely seem like they're torque-to-yield. I don't remember if the FSM calls that out or not, but I did buy new bolts when I transferred my flexplate over ('new' engine didn't come with one).

 

[FamilyCamper]

FWIW, those bolts (IMO) are 1 time use based on the torquing routine - definitely seem like they're torque-to-yield. I don't remember if the FSM calls that out or not, but I did buy new bolts when I transferred my flexplate over ('new' engine didn't come with one).

Ok thank you I will probably pick up some with my next parts order. Ok you answered my question because I was just making sure flex plates were transferrable.

 

[FamilyCamper]

EDIT: Cylinders were flashed with WD-40 to prevent rust and will be blown out with compressed air and I will crank the engine over several times to clear anything. Thanks for the quick calls from a couple members!!

I've got some small stuff done but scoping the cylinders currently. The old engine was definitely bad with significant scoring in all the cylinders. The new engine has some weird stuff that I'm not sure what to make of. Working on some research now but any ideas or comments welcome.

Cylinder 4 - interesting spatter looking almost with the rest of the walls looking great

Cylinder 6 - oil stain ?? and rest of walls look great

Cylinder 8 - brown rusty looking liquid? Rest of walls look good but look discolored with the same color

 

[kevgentile]

Everything looks decent but the motor was definitely sitting outdoors or in a humid environment. If it came into our shop I'd do the following.

Nō 8 cylinder with the water and corrosion accumulation could damage the wall/ring when turned over. There's no telling how long water has been entering that cylinder and how much damage has occurred. Water most likely seeped past the rings and could possibly damage and break if the motor hasn't been rotated at all. I'm assuming you have rotated it since acquiring it?

I'd fill the engine/cylinders up with kerosene and let it sit for a while. Fill it up until it pukes out the breathers. Treat it like it had a blown head gasket and mixed coolant and oil. Pull the cam covers and check for milkshake too.

After it sits for a few days drain and blow out the cylinders and scope No. 8 again.
If the cylinder looks ok, fill up the case with some oil...over fill it, and turn it over several times.

If No. 8 cyl wall looks suspect I'd pull the head off and hone it. If it were me I'd definitely pull the heads regardless, hone the cyls and knock out a major service. Pulling the heads with the engine out will be cake.

 

[FamilyCamper]

Everything looks decent but the motor was definitely sitting outdoors or in a humid environment. If it came into our shop I'd do the following.

Nō 8 cylinder with the water and corrosion accumulation could damage the wall/ring when turned over. There's no telling how long water has been entering that cylinder and how much damage has occurred. Water most likely seeped past the rings and could possibly damage and break if the motor hasn't been rotated at all. I'm assuming you have rotated it since acquiring it?

I'd fill the engine/cylinders up with kerosene and let it sit for a while. Fill it up until it pukes out the breathers. Treat it like it had a blown head gasket and mixed coolant and oil.

Pull the cam covers and check for mustard too. After it sits for a few days drain and blow out the cylinders and scope No. 8 again.
If the cylinder looks ok, fill up the case with some oil...over fill it, and turn it over several times.

If No. 8 cyl wall looks suspect I'd pull the head off and hone it. If it were me I'd definitely pull the heads regardless, hone the cyls and knock out a major service. Pulling the heads with the engine out will be cake.

Thanks so much this is very helpful. Not sure how far I'll go but that makes sense about cleaning it all out.

 

[kevgentile]

Thanks so much this is very helpful. Not sure how far I'll go but that makes sense about cleaning it all out.

If you haven't yet done so, I'd pull the oil drain plug too. Make sure the oil is not mixed with any water. This is where the kerosene comes in.
it'll clean the bottom end and clear out all the bearing surfaces, just don't turn the motor with it in there. After a few days of it sitting in there, drain and fill with the cheapest oil you can get and then rotate the crank a bit. You can even throw in a few liters of atf as it's good at loosening up gunk and its lower viscosity offers better creep into the bearing and oil passages.

We last filled up an old Fiat motor with kerosene that had been locked up after sitting for 20 years. But mostly for coolant mixing failures.
We fill them up to the brim.

 

[FamilyCamper]

If you haven't yet done so, I'd pull the oil drain plug too. Make sure the oil is not mixed with any water. This is where the kerosene comes in.
it'll clean the bottom end and clear out all the bearing surfaces, just don't turn the motor with it in there. After a few days of it sitting in there, drain and fill with the cheapest oil you can get and then rotate the crank a bit. You can even throw in a few liters of atf as it's good at loosening up gunk and its lower viscosity offers better creep into the bearing and oil passages.

We last filled up an old Fiat motor with kerosene that had been locked up after sitting for 20 years. But mostly for coolant mixing failures.
We fill them up to the brim.

Yes I have cranked it over several times before purchase and then when scoping the cylinders.
Okay thanks, I definitely need to pull the oil plug and put something through it as I messed up earlier today after removing the dipstick to get better access to cleaning header attachment points and brushed who knows how many tiny pieces of rust into the small opening where the dipstick goes. Thanks for the continued response I needed it. So if I'm understanding the steps correctly
1. Fill cylinders through spark plug holes fully w kerosene
2. Fill engine through oil access hole w kerosene and let it sit for a couple days before draining through normal drain plug
3. Blow out kerosene from cylinders?? Will I really be able to blow all of it out??

So don't turn the crank at all during this process and then use cheap oil to help get kerosene out of engine. I'm just worried about messing up the engine as I've never done something like this before. Not sure if I'll do it yet but the idea does make sense. I will at a minimum run some oil through and clear out anything in the pan before starting it up.

 

[kevgentile]

Yes I have cranked it over several times before purchase and then when scoping the cylinders.
Okay thanks, I definitely need to pull the oil plug and put something through it as I messed up earlier today after removing the dipstick to get better access to cleaning header attachment points and brushed who knows how many tiny pieces of rust into the small opening where the dipstick goes. Thanks for the continued response I needed it. So if I'm understanding the steps correctly
1. Fill cylinders through spark plug holes fully w kerosene
2. Fill engine through oil access hole w kerosene and let it sit for a couple days before draining through normal drain plug
3. Blow out kerosene from cylinders?? Will I really be able to blow all of it out??

So don't turn the crank at all during this process and then use cheap oil to help get kerosene out of engine. I'm just worried about messing up the engine as I've never done something like this before. Not sure if I'll do it yet but the idea does make sense. I will at a minimum run some oil through and clear out anything in the pan before starting it up.

Correct on the sequence of steps. Unless you're certain that no water was able to enter into the crankcase then the key is to eliminate the possibility of any water remaining between the bearing surfaces.

If You've already be rotating the crank assembly and it moved with little effort then the rings should be fine. And, as long as any damage to the cylinder wall is higher than where the compression ring sits at TDC then you should be ok and you can proceed as you had intended.

The scope shots look decent and the remaining cyls look great. Just the no.8 with what definitely appears to be corrosion built up along the wall and in the crevice between it and the piston is concerning. I'd at least work on getting that area cleaner to get a better look at the condition.

 

[kevgentile]

Doing a compression or leak down test before dropping the replacement motor in wouldn't be a bad idea.

 

[FamilyCamper]

Spent Friday night getting a new timing belt and water pump installed as well as the front crank oil seal and new thermostat. Not too terrible but keeping track of all the bolts was definitely a task. Last maintenance person used gasket maker on the O ring for the thermostat housing and it broke off when removing. Thankfully I just pulled the one from the old engine and all was good. I'm not looking forward to this job on my other cruiser when the engine is in place. I used a tiny screw into the oil seal and pulled on it with ease to remove it. The new one went in place and seated well with some taps in a circle. I swapped over the crank pulley and fan bracket from the old engine as they seemed to be in better condition. fan bracket sounded good and did not free spin. Next up for the engine
exhaust headers/gaskets
intake manifold gaskets
all injector seals
Lots of hose checking and replacement where needed
Front and rear water bypass gaskets
Valve cover gaskets and new bolts
Throttle body cleaning and gasket
Clean MAF

 

[excessive]

Lookin great man

 

[FamilyCamper]

Installed headers this evening. One thing at a time! Can someone confirm this is the correct orientation. There's a shiny metal side and coated grey side. I put the grey side against the block and shiny side against the header. The white marking mentioned in the fsm was not present?? Also I know the pic looks obvious but the bolt holes line up perfectly either side out

 

[awesomeissquid]

View attachment 3689942

I believe this is the correct way. Only one way should align with the bolt holes.

 

[LJE]

Installed headers this evening. One thing at a time! Can someone confirm this is the correct orientation. There's a shiny metal side and coated grey side. I put the grey side against the block and shiny side against the header. The white marking mentioned in the fsm was not present?? Also I know the pic looks obvious but the bolt holes line up perfectly either side out

View attachment 3689941

View attachment 3689942

I ran into the same thing with my headers and OEM gaskets. I had a old set of unused OEM gaskets from my tech school engine - the white marking was on the dull gray side, which should go towards the manifold/header according to the FSM for my 2005 LX. The bolt pattern will fit that way, you just have to swap sides.

 

[FamilyCamper]

I ran into the same thing with my headers and OEM gaskets. I had a old set of unused OEM gaskets from my tech school engine - the white marking was on the dull gray side, which should go towards the manifold/header according to the FSM for my 2005 LX. The bolt pattern will fit that way, you just have to swap sides.

View attachment 3690042

Thank you but darnit, I think I will need to flip them then. Hopefully removing doesnt affect the seal.

 

[LJE]

Thank you but darnit, I think I will need to flip them then. Hopefully removing doesnt affect the seal.

I hope not! I don't understand why Toyota ditched the white mark on newer exhaust manifold gaskets...

 

[FamilyCamper]

I hope not! I don't understand why Toyota ditched the white mark on newer exhaust manifold gaskets...

yeah it makes no sense

 

[davidp14]

Youre making short work of this project ! Good work so far! Im excited to see it running soon

 

[matzell]

Thank you but darnit, I think I will need to flip them then. Hopefully removing doesnt affect the seal.

I think they are one time use, look at the raised portion that crushes down. May be ok since they have not heat cycled?

I would take a wire brush to all those pulleys and knock the rust off so it does not get imbeded in the new belt.

You are doing good.

 

[FamilyCamper]

1. Not sure on the ECUs. Might be easiest to keep the ECU w/ the engine it came with.

2. My first time pulling one of these but it's pretty straight forward. 2nd set of hands will make it easier when undoing the torque converter bolts. Can leave the hood, just undo the struts and tie the hood up higher. The trans oil cooler lines are the only tricky things I've found so far. Undo the harness at the ECU and bring the loom through the firewall. Can leave the compressor lines connected and lay it down. Or disconnect the lines, pull the compressor with the motor and re-charge once back in.

I'm about ready to lift the motor out on mine for a full re-seal. Sounds like you're going to do all the engine related seals, rear main, oil pump o ring on front and the same o ring on the rear of the motor? Check motor mounts. Great time for new radiator if needed. Fan bracket too. Mission creep can turn to mission sprawl when pulling the motor....

Good time to address any issues with steering rack or the front diff as well. I'm swapping in a new rack and doing all the diff seals and bushings at the same time.
Good luck!

"oil pump o ring on front and the same o ring on the rear of the motor"

I ordered two of these seals to do the rear one as well but I am not seeing another seal anywhere besides the rear main seal which is a larger seal. I changed the front one behind the water pump/crank shaft but can you let me know which rear one you are referring to?