Engine Bay....Hmmm, what do we have here?

[SAB]

So this is the engine bay of a 1972 FJ40 that I'm considering. The carb has clearly been replaced to a Holly, but other than that, does anything look grotesquely out of place? I'm not wild about the loose wiring job....but ho-hum. Thanks in advance!

 

[spotcruiser]

Yeah, doesn't look too bad. Wiring sucks, but an easy fix. Has a later valve cover, which is good. Bitchin ooga horn.

 

[gator25]

You sure that's a Holley carb? Looks more like a Rochester. No matter, looks ok to me too.

 

[GA Architect]

Interesting oil cap modification. You may want to ask; "Why the chain?"

Be sure to check the brakes. Maybe it is just the photo, but it appears one of the master cylinder reservoirs is empty?

 

[lc69hunter]

Interesting hybridization. I do not think it is a Holley carb either, as I have one sitting on my 2F.

 

[SAB]

Top info lads. Thanks for that. Here is the rest of her. Frame off 13 years ago. These are the only two rust spots on her...
Going down to give her the once over. Fingers crossed!

 

[SAB]

Some more...

 

[SAB]

...

 

[GHalll]

Hood to windshield bumpers are backwards and it has short rear seats. Looks pretty good.

 

[Cleg]

The engine compartment looks better than average.
Looks maintained and driveable, hydraulics look nice.
F motor with alternator on left and oil filter separate with hoses but the better 2F valve cover.
I have a March 72 and it looks pretty similar.

Focusing on the stuff that is expensive or hard to find,
The power brake booster looks pretty good, probably a $350 part.
1F exhaust manifolds can get cracks at the inside 90 degree corners where the vertical drops meet the horizontal part.
If it is good that's a plus, to replace maybe $125.
Missing drum type air cleaner assembly would be maybe $150 to replace.
Missing emissions solenoid box on drivers fender that probably never worked anyway.
There should also be a charcoal canister mounted low on the passenger side inner fender.
I don't see the radiator overflow tank, also not a big deal.

On the body I'd expect to find rust in the usual places, back sill, rockers, back quarters.
The vertical seams are still there at the front & back edges of the rockers so not completely filled with Bondo.
Back fender wells are not cut, nice.
Correct doors with good rubber, all hardware and working windows is worth $500+.
Barn doors with all hardware, nice

Later short jump seats to accommodate roll bar that was not offered on a 72. I like the roll bar and short seats better.
The dash looks good not cut or buggered but has later 3 piece lower dash pad and radio cutout that is not on my 72.

Wrong front seats if that matters to you.

All in all it looks like a lot of good stuff and one that would be worth owning.

 

[Jdc1]

Looks like a 4 speed conversion? The front bucket conversion looks well done, id be willing to bet the rest of the resto isn't cobbled together.

 

[SAB]

Cleg, thank you for taking the time to write all of that. Greatly appreciated. Thanks for the heads up on the bumpers GHall. Sound advice all around.

JDC...You're correct. It is a 4speed. By "front bucket" you are referencing the body around the shifter correct?

 

[Jdc1]

Cleg, thank you for taking the time to write all of that. Greatly appreciated. Thanks for the heads up on the bumpers GHall. Sound advice all around.

JDC...You're correct. It is a 4speed. By "front bucket" you are referencing the body around the shifter correct?

No, the front seats look like they aren't just slapped in there but well thought out. Everything on the rig except for the wiring looks well done.

 

[Downey]

Getting back to the carb, it could possibly be the Ford version of a Holley carb??? If it were a Holley 350 and

/or Ford version, you could baffle and chimney the float bowl for off road use, see attached photo. Note- - you wouldn't be able to bounce gas up into the white plastic float bowl baffle, then bounce it up the chimney all the way up to the top lid of the air cleaner. This is what makes the Holleys work well in off road terrain. Reference ebay #252568209402.

 

[SAB]

Top info JD & Downey. Thank you.

Here is the underside....Do you think between 10 and 17 is fair market value?

 

[Downey]

If you decide you need one of these, lemme know.

 

[sggoat]

Both rocker panels look like there's rust underneath--and yes, the rear master res is empty(might be indicative of leaking wheel cylinders).
If you're planning to wheel, the exhaust is hanging quite low--
Rear diff breather almost looks like it is venting oil out onto the housing--maybe just the pic angle
Nice looking rig, tho'

 

[SAB]

Thanks Downey and SG....Perhaps not a sound deal at the 15k price point then eh? I think I'll still drive down and have a look. Worst case scenario, I get to go for a FJ40 test drive...and that's never a bad day!

 

[65swb45]

Top info lads. Thanks for that. Here is the rest of her. Frame off 13 years ago.

I have a VERY hard time believing anyone would have taken the time and energy to do a frame off and put it back together like that.

 

[Jdc1]

Thanks Downey and SG....Perhaps not a sound deal at the 15k price point then eh? I think I'll still drive down and have a look. Worst case scenario, I get to go for a FJ40 test drive...and that's never a bad day!

15k seems a little steep. You'll get a good feeling for it once you see it in person. A magnet or paint gauge might be a good thing to have with you. Mechanicals are alot more straight forward and less expensive than decent bodywork/paint. Try to look for the most complete rust free truck that you can find. There are still deals out there. A great example sold for $5500 last week that was really clean and running/driving.