Enamel vs. Epoxy vs. Urethane - A Paint Primer?

[pappy]

What's the difference? I'm getting close to painting my FJ40. I'm going to do this myself and I know almost nothing about paint and I'm confused. This will be on a trail truck, not a restoration, but I still want it to be nice. I need something easy to apply. No clear coat required. Also, I saw someplace that the primer needs to be compatable with the top coat. What do I need to know?

 

[ashooter]

Ditto.

I have heard that a lot of people have had good luck with Rustoleum "industrial" enamel as well as Interlux Brightside polyurethane. The biggest question in my mind is not which is easier to apply, but which one is tougher?

 

[laguna80]

Here's some wiki articles. Bear in mind, they are not 100% accurate.
Enamel paint - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Epoxy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Polyurethane - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I like zero rust a lot. I've been putting it on my 55. It rolls on really nicely too. It's an alkyd coating, essentially an oil-based paint.

 

[pappy]

Here's some wiki articles. Bear in mind, they are not 100% accurate. I like zero rust a lot. I've been putting it on my 55. It rolls on really nicely too. It's an alkyd coating, essentially an oil-based paint.

Those were real technical. I guess I need something dumb'd down to my level.

 

[Project60]

I'm not a paint expert, but I will pass on what I have read.

Epoxy primer is used on bare metal (it is like an etching primer). It is a 2 part paint, meaning it has a catylist. It does not sand well, so it is merely a place to start for bare metal.

Urethane primer is a sandable primer. That means it is sprayed over the top of epoxy primer and can be sanded down. The intent is you spray a coat on, sand it down, spray a coat on, sand it down. This way it hides imperfections. It is usually not waterproof, so it is not a good topcoat.

Enamel primer is the same as urethane primer, but is meant to go under enamal topcoats.


NOTE - If you use a lacquer based topcoat, use a lacquer based primer. If you use an enamal topcoat, use an enamel primer. If you use a urethane topcoat, use a urethane primer.

 

[ashooter]

NOTE - If you use a lacquer based topcoat, use a lacquer based primer. If you use an enamal topcoat, use an enamel primer. If you use a urethane topcoat, use a urethane primer.

So unless I'm going to sand my truck down to bare metal and start from scratch, I ought to use an enamel like Rustoleum rather than a polyurethane like Brightside?

Makes sense to me.

 

[Project60]

So unless I'm going to sand my truck down to bare metal and start from scratch, I ought to use an enamel like Rustoleum rather than a polyurethane like Brightside?

Makes sense to me.

I am not sure what the original primer/paint was from Toyota. My guess is a lacquer or an enamel....

The other thing you can do is sand/scuff your existing paint/primer and then shoot a coat of sealer. This way you can use whatever kind of paint you want... just make sure the sealer is made to go over the top of the original paint and is compatible with the new paint.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Pappy;

PM me if you're heading up to the East Mountains anytime soon. I've got a bit of everything sitting in the shop and could show you some finished stuff.

Automotive Paint Supply - Quality Finishes and Equipment in ABQ is AWESOME for info and paint. They're off of San Mateo, take the first left on San Mateo south of Central. Every time I've walked out of there with a decent product and a finish I was more than happy with when it was all said and done. They are more than happy to give you guidance as to what products will work best for you (and especially in NM, since it's not so humid, things are occasionally a bit different).

Also: I wouldn't necessarily sweat a clear coat. If you ever run into Dad's FJ-40, it's got both my and his first attempts at clear coat on it--I bet you'd be hard pressed to find either of them.

Dan

 

[pappy]

Thanks Dan. That's the kind of help I think I'm going to need.

 

[webelk6]

What's the difference? I'm getting close to painting my FJ40. I'm going to do this myself and I know almost nothing about paint and I'm confused. This will be on a trail truck, not a restoration, but I still want it to be nice. I need something easy to apply. No clear coat required. Also, I saw someplace that the primer needs to be compatable with the top coat. What do I need to know?

Epoxy can be a touchy paint as it can lift former substrates, if not removed. Epoxy is great for say your top. Stick with 2 component urethanes if at all possible.

 

[pappy]

Epoxy can be a touchy paint as it can lift former substrates, if not removed. Epoxy is great for say your top. Stick with 2 component urethanes if at all possible.

Thanks. I've been reading on the side and I'll either go with the urethane, or the ACE enamel.

 

[pportmd]

...if sanding to bare metal, metal prep solution then epoxy primer then single-stage urethane topcoat (has clear built in), if painting over old layer of paint, then need a combined primer/sealer coat to keep old paint layers from lifting, then topcoat with single stage urethane.

 

[REZARF]

FWIW, the paint guy locally told me that urathane will hold up much better than the enamel in the long run, but the enamel can always be buffed back to a shine.

Drew

 

[Mustang_man298]

Hey all,
This thread looked idle for a while so I thought it'd be a good place to ask this given the subject. I was fortunate to come across a bunch of fresh Simco military grade paint through a friend. I have 3 kinds, Zinc rich grey epoxy polyamide primer (which works for both color paints), White Epoxy polyamide topcoat, & aircraft grade White Aliphatic urethane coat. Pics attached of the labels, I will be repainting my flatbed car trailer soon, and after using the grey primer, I was wondering what y'all think about these paints & which topcoat I should go with for best durability. The trailer lives outside.

 

[Splangy]

Epoxy can be a touchy paint as it can lift former substrates, if not removed. Epoxy is great for say your top. Stick with 2 component urethanes if at all possible.

It can lift other coatings. It will not lift the substrate. The substrate is steel.

Edit: Jesus. Just realized I just responded to a 9 year old post that was bumped up!

 

[Splangy]

Hey all,
This thread looked idle for a while so I thought it'd be a good place to ask this given the subject. I was fortunate to come across a bunch of fresh Simco military grade paint through a friend. I have 3 kinds, Zinc rich grey epoxy polyamide primer (which works for both color paints), White Epoxy polyamide topcoat, & aircraft grade White Aliphatic urethane coat. Pics attached of the labels, I will be repainting my flatbed car trailer soon, and after using the grey primer, I was wondering what y'all think about these paints & which topcoat I should go with for best durability. The trailer lives outside.

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This is really an industrial coating system and not an automotive system. It would be typical to use all theee with the poly as your final topcoat for durability and gloss retention. Keep in mind that you need to spray IOZ. It cannot be brushed on. Also be sure to follow the product specs and apply to the proper thickness. This is true for all three coatings. More is not better.

The poly will overspray everywhere. Be prepared.

Make sure you have proper PPE. Poly contains isocyanates which will turn your brain to mush and your liver into a hockey puck.

 

[Helipilot]

X2 on PPE. These new paints and coatings are deadly if not used properly with your PPE