To answer the coil question, you can use about any coil you want. Nearly all coils operate on 6V, it is just the way they are. The stock setup uses a 12V ignition switched power feed to the resistor. The resisitor drops the power to 6V before it enters the + side of the coil. This aids in coil life and points life. New Toyota coils are internally resisted now. An aftermarket one with internal resistor will be the same. They reduce the input voltage to 6V inside of themselves. Marshall directs you to attach one wire to the + side of the coil and the other to the - side. The + side needs 12V to go to the electronic module of the distributor. That is all this wire needs, ignition switched 12V power, it has nothing to do with the coil. The negative wire is what triggers the coil to fire into the plug wires. You can retain your stock coils and resistors by attaching the + side wire of the distributor to the input side of the resistor. That is the side that attaches to the wiring harness. the other end of the resistor will have a short wire over to the coil. The - side wire attaches to the - side of the coil. The ignitor can be disconnected entirely and removed if wanted. The ignitor was part of the original electronic iginition system, and has no bearing on the function of the coil or the new distributor triggering module within the distributor itself. I added the Unilite system to my points style Mallory distributor years ago. This is how it is hooked up, two wires, + and - and it needed 12V. Has worked great for years hooked up to the input of the resistor.
