Electronic F & 2F Distributors (2 Viewers)

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Hey Marshall - sent you PayPal, for a dissy on Tues. Hoping you got enough in this shipment to cover a few extra folks who weren't on the waiting list.

Could you sent me a quick note and let me know if I'll be getting mine soon?

Thanks!

Got the UPS shipping notification today. Best confirmation I could've possibly gotten.

Marshall - THANK YOU.
 
Marshall, got mine today thanks, now just got to figure out how it hooks up.
:smokin:
 
How do you feel about adding 3FE distributors? Or are they the same as 2F?
 
Quick Review on the Trollhole 2015 big cap electronic distributor. F-2F
Received my new distributor from Trollhole yesterday and made some time to install it in my 82 Fj45.

The distributor it's self appears to be very well designed and produced. Only two areas I found that were questionable on mine. One was, one of the cap spring clips had a bent brass pin, so it was a bit weak on one side when the spring was pulled down to secure the cap. Very easy fix with a small machine bolt and nut installed, works fine. Second was just my preference, the shaft end tip were it goes into the pump slot was still Sharpe on the edges from machining so I just dressed the edges on my buffer wheel to take the edge off, but as said my preference and would of been fine.
Used some mic calipers to compare the shaft, body, gear, with stock Toyota distributor and all was dead on. Nice!
The guts of the dizzy seem very well made and the vacuum advance unit was perfect. Very small amount of vacuum was applied with my vacuum gauge (barely one pump) before the mechanism started to move, so I would think if a carbs vacuum system was a bit weak you would get a good vacuum responses with this distributors diaphragm. The bearing plate is a nice addition as found on the newer Toyota electronic distributors, very smooth.
Never seen a rotor like the one that comes with the dizzy so not sure were to fined one when it comes time for replacement, but is well made.
The cap is a 1975-1978 type so that is nice for future replacement. It too is a well made cap.
The install was too easy, I used my Toyota's stock electronic dizzy coil, I just removed all the igniter wires since the coil is internal resistor type and hooked up the wires - Red to positive side of the coil along with the Black/Yellow 12V ignition harness wire. Black to the negative side of the coil. Had one black wire that went to the negative side with the stock distributor but left it off and seems to be fine without it. If anyone can comment on that black single wire it would be nice to know if I should have it attached, just in case.
One pump on the gas and it started right up. Set the timing after it was warmed up and notice two things - one the engine was much smother and second my RPM gauge was no longer fluctuating by 10-14 rpm. It was pretty solid with a 2-6 RPM change, that is worth it right there.
Oil pressure is stable (just keep an eye on the oil pressure for a few miles), no mechanical noises coming from the old block.
Sum it up you can buy the aftermarket electronic conversion kits for a few buck less and they work just fine for your old non electronic dizzy but for the price that Trollhole is asking for a complete distributor with new bearings, bushings, gear, shaft, and Marshals personal touch on his Sun test machine before it goes out to you, I think you cannot go wrong.
Keep the old dizzy in the off road box for back-up.
:):banana:
My 1 cents worth


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I test fit mine last night and noticed it's not seating all the way down. Maybe 16th or 3/32 of an inch. The step is just not seating all the way down? Any ideas? Or is this expected on this dizzy?
 
thecrazygreek, I too noticed that mine was not fully seated also. Has about the same amount of a gap as you described. I installed it around five times and every time it was the same. Even lubed the O-ring. At first I was thinking that I was off a tooth on the gear but it was seating solid in the pump slot as I tested it with Vaseline mix with a tad bit of food coloring at the shafts end and it showed color 3/4 or more in the slot. So I know its seat well into the pump slot. I read a post where some have had this encounter with seating the distributor almost identical. I am not sure myself why but as of now I have driven over 25 miles with no issues with this new distributor install.
I have good oil pressure with no abnormal sounds or problems so far. I am as of now not to concerned but plan on keeping an eye on the oil pressure for a few weeks as we always should. I will also pull the distributor in two weeks and check the gear wear to see if it is showing any abnormalities, if so I will post my finding.
Please post your finding I'm sure Marshall may have some information on this.
 
I'll take some pics of them installed in various blocks around the shop. Have not noticed a gap. But as long as you have oil pressure you will be fine. That is the biggest worry.

And the rotor. Yes it's a weird one. I thought of replacing them all but think they are kind of cool. Basically it has a rev limiter built into it. Once it spins up over 4200 rpms it will cut out.

A standard 75-77 rotor button will work in it's place as well as the cap.
 
I am good on mine as long as the oil pressure is working. Would be a good thing to see other installs for others to reference if there are any questions. I know some of the other guys who have bought in the past might chime in with what they may of experienced with the install. It all helps with any questions that may arise for others.
That is pretty cool about the rotor, now cut out, do you mean sputter and not go any higher than 4200 rpm being a warning. I would probably see pistons go through the hood before I hit 4200 rpm.

Thanks for that info on the rotor.
 
Marshall,

Sent you payment this week for a 2F distributor!

Thanks,

Gerald
 
Recently installed my Trollhole distributor. As people have said it was a very easy install. To find TDC I used the method of putting the truck in 4th and pushing it until things were lined up properly. You don't even have to remove the spark plugs.

While doing the dissy I also replaced my stock coil (1977 FJ40) with an MSD "high vibration" Blaster coil. This was MSD part #8222. MSD recommends that their other coils be installed vertically, and NOT horizontally as the stock coil is mounted on my 40. The high-vibration coil is epoxy-potted and MSD says it can be mounted horizontally. Cost was just over $50 from my local OReillys.

I installed everything as described previously: black to negative side of coil, and red + ignition switched 12v to positive side of coil. It fired right up, but I wasn't able to dial in enough advance.

I went back to TDC, pulled the dissy, used a screw driver to rotate the oil pump slot clockwise about a tooth (maybe 5-10 degrees). I then reinserted the dissy - rotor ended up pointing almost straight up instead of at the #4 plug. Fired right up again, let it warm up, and dialed in 12 degrees advance. I'd also just replaced the original carb with a JimC rebuild that originally came off an FJ60. She is purring like a kitty. Better than ever.

Thanks for a great product, Trollhole. Recommended.
 
Marshall, are you currently shipping? Already have a electronic ignition, but my distributor is shot and needs replacing now. Also, is resistor still required?
 
A little off topic but does anyone know the thread size of the intake manifold bolts for the carb? I know its metric but cant seem to find the right thread. Sorry for the hijack.
 
Trollhole

How do i go about ordering the theottle cable adapter for the Aisan Carb. PO had a Holley on it and i dont have the mechanical linkage.

Thank you in advance
 

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