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Electronic F & 2F Distributors (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Trollhole
- Start date
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M7
Any 2F large cap elec. dizzies in stock and ready to ship?Also how about the replacement guts as a spare?
Hmmm. Went to install my TH dissy and there is no clamp. OEM (old) dissy has the clamp as part of the casting and it is not removable. I must have missed something, but I searched this forum and there is no mention of a clamp. Hope you read this soon as I am not mobile until I get this dissy installed.
Sounds like your old dizzy is from a 60 series. You can buy a clamp from most the cruiser stores, cruiser corps is $8. Toyota may still even carry them.
Replace your rusted or non-tightening Distributor Clamp with this OEM replacement. Fits FJ40 & FJ55 1958 - 7/1980 Land Cruiser
Replace your rusted or non-tightening Distributor Clamp with this OEM replacement. Fits FJ40 & FJ55 1958 - 7/1980 Land Cruiser
I should have known, but the only place in this forum it is even mentioned is buried in the carb thread. 
"All my distributors are electronic. Basically a clone of a what I call a medium cap mid 70's land cruiser distributor. It will work on any f and 2f motor. On the fj60 motor or anything 79 and later you will need to purchase a hold down clamp as the original stock distributors had the clamp incorporated into the housing. "
EDIT: Also, it seems this dissy isn't compatible with the FJ60 AC and tach as if you disconnect the ignitor you lose the tach pulse signal which comes from the ignitor. Or did I miss something?
"All my distributors are electronic. Basically a clone of a what I call a medium cap mid 70's land cruiser distributor. It will work on any f and 2f motor. On the fj60 motor or anything 79 and later you will need to purchase a hold down clamp as the original stock distributors had the clamp incorporated into the housing. "
EDIT: Also, it seems this dissy isn't compatible with the FJ60 AC and tach as if you disconnect the ignitor you lose the tach pulse signal which comes from the ignitor. Or did I miss something?
Not certain with a 60 but most tachs just connect to the coil.
On a FJ60 the ignitor sources the tach signal, not the coil, which is why I asked.
Is anyone running this distributor on A FJ60? How did you hook it up? My TH dissy has a short black wire, and a long red one in a white sheath. Is this correct for a 2F? What do I do with the short black wire? I've searched and there is no info, or I missed it. Nothing with the dissy in the box.
Also, when mine is seated in the block it sits up from flush about 1/8" as others reported. The o-ring is much higher on the shaft than the OEM.
EDIT: not sure why the black wire is so short since they both go to the coil, apparently. Guess I will solder and heatshrink an extension, run it up thru the sheath, and add a ring terminal.
I can't be the first to put one of these on a FJ60.
Is anyone running this distributor on A FJ60? How did you hook it up? My TH dissy has a short black wire, and a long red one in a white sheath. Is this correct for a 2F? What do I do with the short black wire? I've searched and there is no info, or I missed it. Nothing with the dissy in the box.
Also, when mine is seated in the block it sits up from flush about 1/8" as others reported. The o-ring is much higher on the shaft than the OEM.
EDIT: not sure why the black wire is so short since they both go to the coil, apparently. Guess I will solder and heatshrink an extension, run it up thru the sheath, and add a ring terminal.
I can't be the first to put one of these on a FJ60.
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- Thread starter
- #289
You arn't but that being said most that are running them are only doing so On motor swaps in 40's. I never took into consideration the A/C amplifier signal. I thought that started of the FJ62's. Let me know if you want to return it. Sorry about all the confusion.
Naw I want to run it and keep it for a spare. I'll be a guinea pig.
I think I know how to use it in an FJ60, but some info would be helpful:
What signals are the red and black wire on your dissy? I think they are intended to go to the + side and - side of the coil, directly. Per page 1: "Connect the black wire to the negative on the coil and the red wire to the positive side of the coil. That is it. " Correct?
The dissy fires the coil directly (like a points dissy - only electronically, i.e. with a transistor) so the FJ60 "ignitor" is not needed - I believe this is also true. Just not sure why the black wire is so short on mine?
So I cut the connector off the short black wire of the dissy, and spliced on and heatshrinked a longer black wire to match the red. I will add a ring terminal so both wires can attach to the coil posts. The switched hot to the + terminal from the truck wiring will be left as-is, but the ignitor will be disconnected. In my truck only two wires go from the truck to the ignition, switched hot, and I think the other is the tach. The question is where to connect this so the tach signal works. Not sure if the ignitor has any conditioning circuitry or if this can be connected directly to the (-) terminal of the coil... this is the main mystery. I'm sure the truck will run with just the dissy and the hot wire wired to the coil.
When my dang clamp gets here (on a slow boat from SOR rolleyes) I can try it out. Might want to tell FJ60 buyers to get one.
I think I know how to use it in an FJ60, but some info would be helpful:
What signals are the red and black wire on your dissy? I think they are intended to go to the + side and - side of the coil, directly. Per page 1: "Connect the black wire to the negative on the coil and the red wire to the positive side of the coil. That is it. " Correct?
The dissy fires the coil directly (like a points dissy - only electronically, i.e. with a transistor) so the FJ60 "ignitor" is not needed - I believe this is also true. Just not sure why the black wire is so short on mine?
So I cut the connector off the short black wire of the dissy, and spliced on and heatshrinked a longer black wire to match the red. I will add a ring terminal so both wires can attach to the coil posts. The switched hot to the + terminal from the truck wiring will be left as-is, but the ignitor will be disconnected. In my truck only two wires go from the truck to the ignition, switched hot, and I think the other is the tach. The question is where to connect this so the tach signal works. Not sure if the ignitor has any conditioning circuitry or if this can be connected directly to the (-) terminal of the coil... this is the main mystery. I'm sure the truck will run with just the dissy and the hot wire wired to the coil.
When my dang clamp gets here (on a slow boat from SOR rolleyes) I can try it out. Might want to tell FJ60 buyers to get one.
Clamps are available from Toyota.
- Thread starter
- #294
I agree with you the black wire is too short. They use the pickup in several distributor models and it was what I could get. I need to just supply a pigtail to extend it.
I swore I thought the tach gets it's signal from the negative side of the coil. Curious what kind of signal it needs.
If you look at the only Toyota schematic of the USA JJ60 ignition, it shows the tach signal being picked up in the usual spot, the (-) side of the coil, but internally to the ignitor module, it depicts a series resistor before the signal wire goes out to the tach connector, which may or may not match the actual circuitry of the module. Typically this is done to reduce bandwidth of the signal, or to reduce transients, for EMI maybe. Here's the pic:
Here is how I'm going to connect your TH Distributor to my FJ60. Excuse the hacked MS paint drawing:
This should work fine and I will try it out next. Should get a clamp tomorrow.
EDIT: Tonight I inspected and sussed out the truck wiring. There are 2 male plugs, one black, one green, wire color looks B-Y and B-R, and a green female connector with black wire. Both male plugs have 12V switched-to-run hot on them from ignition switch. In my FJ60, the black one is not connected. The female (latch) connector with a plain black wire (or very dark green) is the tach signal, on the truck harness. It goes to the tach, EM comp, and AC amp. This jives perfectly with the 2F engine pic 8-3. The module power wire shares a ring terminal with the (+) ignition hot wire (2 wires on one ring), so I had to cut one side off (ignitor wire) and add a ring of it's own here. This way you can leave the stock power wire plugged in for (+) power to the coil, yet disconnect the module...
For the tach signal, the module measures exactly 1k Ohm between the (-) wire and the tach output wire, which I gather is R in the pic above. I can make a wire with a 1k resistor, ring on one end and fem lug on the other to connect (-) to the truck-side tach connector so all that stuff works, but, I may be able to just use the module for this, now that I think about it. If the power is cut to the module, the resistor would be isolated from the circuit because you are looking into the collector of the power transistor, which is a high impedance. So you could leave the tach wire plugged in as usual, and only connect the (-) wire from the module to the (-) side of the coil. So 4 of the 5 wires on the ignitor would be disconnected.
Gotta test all this tomorrow night. Time for a big whisky and then bed.
Here is how I'm going to connect your TH Distributor to my FJ60. Excuse the hacked MS paint drawing:
This should work fine and I will try it out next. Should get a clamp tomorrow.
EDIT: Tonight I inspected and sussed out the truck wiring. There are 2 male plugs, one black, one green, wire color looks B-Y and B-R, and a green female connector with black wire. Both male plugs have 12V switched-to-run hot on them from ignition switch. In my FJ60, the black one is not connected. The female (latch) connector with a plain black wire (or very dark green) is the tach signal, on the truck harness. It goes to the tach, EM comp, and AC amp. This jives perfectly with the 2F engine pic 8-3. The module power wire shares a ring terminal with the (+) ignition hot wire (2 wires on one ring), so I had to cut one side off (ignitor wire) and add a ring of it's own here. This way you can leave the stock power wire plugged in for (+) power to the coil, yet disconnect the module...
For the tach signal, the module measures exactly 1k Ohm between the (-) wire and the tach output wire, which I gather is R in the pic above. I can make a wire with a 1k resistor, ring on one end and fem lug on the other to connect (-) to the truck-side tach connector so all that stuff works, but, I may be able to just use the module for this, now that I think about it. If the power is cut to the module, the resistor would be isolated from the circuit because you are looking into the collector of the power transistor, which is a high impedance. So you could leave the tach wire plugged in as usual, and only connect the (-) wire from the module to the (-) side of the coil. So 4 of the 5 wires on the ignitor would be disconnected.
Gotta test all this tomorrow night. Time for a big whisky and then bed.
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This knowledge is important.
- Thread starter
- #297
Damn. You need a job?
- Thread starter
- #298
New shipment should be in two weeks.
All right! Works perfectly! Tach signal and everything! Idles smooooooth. TH dissy in 1987 FJ60:
1. Lengthen black wire of TH dissy same as the red wire (I used black #18 mil-spec aircraft wire). I cut off white connector, and made a solder splice, and heat-shrinked it, then fished it up thru the white sheath alongside the red wire, and soldered on a ring terminal.
2. remove ring from (+) terminal on coil, which has 2 wires crimped to it, and carefully cut the wire that goes to Ign module very close to the terminal - NOT the wire to +12V from truck harness! Solder a ring terminal of it's own on the module power wire you just cut, in case you ever put the OEM dissy back in. For now, do not connect it, just label it (+) for your recall later, tape up or heatshrink, and tuck out of the way. This removes power from Ign module so you can use tach signal connection and internal 1k Ohm resistor.
3. Turn engine to #1 TDC compression stroke.
4. Disconnect and remove old OEM dissy. Save the bolt. Find a shorter 12mm bolt for the new clamp. Tie-wrap dissy connector out of the way - it is not used.
5. Put FJ60 clamp on TH dissy and install as per usual dissy install instructions. Tighten the short 12mm clamp hold-down bolt to block, and tighten the clamp screw (10mm) just so you can still turn dissy for timing. Install rotor, cap, and plug wires.
6. Connect dissy black wire to (-) terminal of coil. Leave original module wire here as well for tach signal.
7. connect red wire to (+) terminal of coil along with +12V ring.
8. Tidy up and prepare to start.
9. Start truck. You may have to turn the dissy a bit if it won't fire until it does, then plug dissy advance vacuum hose with golf tee and set timing using timing light on the BB as usual. Remove golf tee and put vacuum advance hose back on dissy advance nipple. Heh. Don't forget this part.
10. Drive to store and buy yourself a 12-pack.
Notes: Leave both connectors to truck harness as-is. Two wires of Ign module remain connected: the tach signal to truck harness, and wire to (-) terminal of coil. This is so tach signal can do it's thing. The module power wire (the one you cut) and 2-wire connector to OEM dissy remain unconnected.
Note 2: You will not be needing the OEM dissy cap breather hoses and stuff. I just plugged the hoses & the air cleaner nipple so there are no vacuum leaks, and tie-wrapped it out of the way. No cabin farts with the TH dissy, no.
Note 3: its easier if you remove oil filter and air filter box for access.
Any questions?
Coil after install. Note unused module power wire on left:
1. Lengthen black wire of TH dissy same as the red wire (I used black #18 mil-spec aircraft wire). I cut off white connector, and made a solder splice, and heat-shrinked it, then fished it up thru the white sheath alongside the red wire, and soldered on a ring terminal.
2. remove ring from (+) terminal on coil, which has 2 wires crimped to it, and carefully cut the wire that goes to Ign module very close to the terminal - NOT the wire to +12V from truck harness! Solder a ring terminal of it's own on the module power wire you just cut, in case you ever put the OEM dissy back in. For now, do not connect it, just label it (+) for your recall later, tape up or heatshrink, and tuck out of the way. This removes power from Ign module so you can use tach signal connection and internal 1k Ohm resistor.
3. Turn engine to #1 TDC compression stroke.
4. Disconnect and remove old OEM dissy. Save the bolt. Find a shorter 12mm bolt for the new clamp. Tie-wrap dissy connector out of the way - it is not used.
5. Put FJ60 clamp on TH dissy and install as per usual dissy install instructions. Tighten the short 12mm clamp hold-down bolt to block, and tighten the clamp screw (10mm) just so you can still turn dissy for timing. Install rotor, cap, and plug wires.
6. Connect dissy black wire to (-) terminal of coil. Leave original module wire here as well for tach signal.
7. connect red wire to (+) terminal of coil along with +12V ring.
8. Tidy up and prepare to start.
9. Start truck. You may have to turn the dissy a bit if it won't fire until it does, then plug dissy advance vacuum hose with golf tee and set timing using timing light on the BB as usual. Remove golf tee and put vacuum advance hose back on dissy advance nipple. Heh. Don't forget this part.
10. Drive to store and buy yourself a 12-pack.
Notes: Leave both connectors to truck harness as-is. Two wires of Ign module remain connected: the tach signal to truck harness, and wire to (-) terminal of coil. This is so tach signal can do it's thing. The module power wire (the one you cut) and 2-wire connector to OEM dissy remain unconnected.
Note 2: You will not be needing the OEM dissy cap breather hoses and stuff. I just plugged the hoses & the air cleaner nipple so there are no vacuum leaks, and tie-wrapped it out of the way. No cabin farts with the TH dissy, no.
Note 3: its easier if you remove oil filter and air filter box for access.
Any questions?
Coil after install. Note unused module power wire on left:
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