When I did my research on electrolysis I found your not supposed to do it on spring steal.
yes, I tried electrolysis and it works but the little bubbles which are coming from the bath is also meant to be a sign it is weakening the steel making it more brittle. The rust turns to black iron oxide which is inert. But somehow it leaves less oxygen in the steel and more carbon, which can make the steel more brittle.
I forgot the exact chemistry but if you think of a katana sword which has a high carbon steel edge and mild steel back so it has the flex. If all the steel in the katana was high carbon it would be brittle and break. They use to feed chickens iron filings with feed to attach the iron to something combustible like chicken poo, burn that and you have carbon in steel in medieval times.
Evaporust is excellent but exy, kbs has a powder which can be mixed with water for larger quantities and molasses with water works too but really stinks after awhile but by far the cheapest. Some say not to leave steel in molasses too long either, I read a story of a flywheel disentegrating whilst in use after a molasses soak!.
I have filled a 44 gallon drum with water and molasses for extractors/ headers (usually aluminised steel so it behaves a little different), whole doors and panels in cattle troughs with water and molasses using a dirty water pump circulating, it works well.
Also I have used the kbs powder for whole engine blocks and cylinder heads most successfully. It would cost too much to use evaporust for a whole engine block on my budget, which is still my first choice. There is an evaporust equivalent which is cheaper but not quite as good, metal rescue. Kbs rust blaster is another favourite for smaller stuff, I dilute it with water and wait longer, like overnight, maybe hit with wire wheel and soak again if needed.
Rust is steel's natural state and creates a huge industry! I think I have tried most of the products.
Ahh rust, we all have it!