Electrolysis rust removal (1 Viewer)

[fj40rower]

FJ40 1F, took off the exhaust/intake manifolds. Surprised to find heat flapper still moves. Spring and weight appear to be in fair shape.
Would like to try electrolysis to get rid of rust. Any opinions if there would be any adverse impacts on the heat flapper spring mechanism?

 

[mchlhmltn]

Interested to hear how it goes. Just took mine off and was planning on having it sandblasted

 

[B y r o n]

Instead of electrolysis you could try Evapo-Rust.

 

[mattressking]

No adverse issues, you’re clear. Electrolysis is the best option especially if you’re going to jet hot or similar coating.

 

[Malleus]

I completely gave up on electrolysis after I tried EvapoRust. I buy it by the gallon now.

 

[pb4ugo]

I do electrolysis, evaporust, vinegar and any other thing that eats rust, along with manually removing it. Coolermans website has good info on th electrolysis process in detail. I went to a pool supply store to get the a better ph+ powder instead of baking soda. A little googling and youll find the right stuff. After striping the rust you need to neutralize/treat the metal to prevent flash rust. I use prep and etch cause it's easy to find. I try to stay with stuff that can be rinsed off.

 

[wimberosa]

I completely gave up on electrolysis after I tried EvapoRust. I buy it by the gallon now.

@Malleus I've seen your take on evapo-rust in another thread I believe. I need to try that...and perhaps you should look at Krud Kutter Rust remover. The knock against krud kutter was it was more expensive than most. However home depot has 5 gallon quantities which works out to about 20 cents per ounce....bringing it back in line with the cheapest of the rust removers...but still beating most of them in regard to speed and stripping power. I also use krud kutter (let it dry from wet) to protect metal if if its going to sit long before painting. I also use krud kutter (cut by half with water) right before painting. Its kinda become a work horse for me.

Previous pics I've seen of evapo-rust stripping look promising as well.

 

[red66toy]

I just did an electrolysis bath on my 1F manifold in hopes of freeing up the flap. Cleaned up the manifold great! I still had to do a torch and penetrant to get the flap free. No adverse effects though with the bath.

 

[White Stripe]

When I did my research on electrolysis I found your not supposed to do it on spring steal.

 

[sodafeld1]

When I did my research on electrolysis I found your not supposed to do it on spring steal.

yes, I tried electrolysis and it works but the little bubbles which are coming from the bath is also meant to be a sign it is weakening the steel making it more brittle. The rust turns to black iron oxide which is inert. But somehow it leaves less oxygen in the steel and more carbon, which can make the steel more brittle.
I forgot the exact chemistry but if you think of a katana sword which has a high carbon steel edge and mild steel back so it has the flex. If all the steel in the katana was high carbon it would be brittle and break. They use to feed chickens iron filings with feed to attach the iron to something combustible like chicken poo, burn that and you have carbon in steel in medieval times.

Evaporust is excellent but exy, kbs has a powder which can be mixed with water for larger quantities and molasses with water works too but really stinks after awhile but by far the cheapest. Some say not to leave steel in molasses too long either, I read a story of a flywheel disentegrating whilst in use after a molasses soak!.

I have filled a 44 gallon drum with water and molasses for extractors/ headers (usually aluminised steel so it behaves a little different), whole doors and panels in cattle troughs with water and molasses using a dirty water pump circulating, it works well.

Also I have used the kbs powder for whole engine blocks and cylinder heads most successfully. It would cost too much to use evaporust for a whole engine block on my budget, which is still my first choice. There is an evaporust equivalent which is cheaper but not quite as good, metal rescue. Kbs rust blaster is another favourite for smaller stuff, I dilute it with water and wait longer, like overnight, maybe hit with wire wheel and soak again if needed.

Rust is steel's natural state and creates a huge industry! I think I have tried most of the products.

Ahh rust, we all have it!

 

[red66toy]

Since these are manifolds and will be subject to high heat, I believe that will bake out any hydrogen that has been taken up by the metal.