Electrical Issue - Died while driving, headlights, radio blinking on and off (1 Viewer)

[Seanshine]

I had a weird electrical issue while driving today in the snow. Vehicle started fine with remote start but I noticed the low beams didn't work. I did not have time to trouble shoot but I have aux lights that can double as headlights so I used those. About 15 minutes into driving the radio turned off and the headlights flickered. I got a battery symbol and my voltage dropped. The radio kept flickering. I almost died on the road but hit the gas and it got me up the hill I was on. Died a few minutes later and I coasted into a parking lot. Had my wife get out of bed and meet me, jumped it and it ran fine. I turned off all accessories and limped home but it died again about 50 feet from my drive way. I'm thinking this is either a bad battery or a leak that is causing a short. I did have the windshield replaced about 2 years ago. I did not notice water on the floor boards but I wasn't looking either. Where should I start after I replace/check the battery?

Its a 99 Land Cruiser.

 

[GerLC100]

Alternator? Disconnect the battery , charge it up and see if it keeps the charge.

How old is the battery?

 

[Seanshine]

Battery is a few years old now - most likely could due with replacing which I will as soon as I have a chance. The lights not working randomly and power dipping as I drive leads me to believe alternator or electrical issues from a leak somewhere. The alternator is a few years old only though.

 

[TheForger]

How long have you had remote start? Could be parasitic draw from that

 

[Seanshine]

Remote start has been on for a long time without issue. If I have time today I'll check the voltage across the terminals while its running.

 

[2001LC]

First thing I'd check is battery terminals. Then, get out the multi meter.

 

[GerLC100]

And if alternator with running engine provides proper voltage I‘d let it run to make sure battery is supposed to be fully charged, then measure after 1, 2, 4,… hours.
If it‘s draining you can plug the multimeter to the battery and see if there‘s a battery draw.

 

[Seanshine]

I always look at the volt meter on the dash when I start out of habit and it was charging just fine when I got in and was driving. Also went back to normal when jumped.

 

[nissanh]

Check the battery: Cold weather can kill a battery especially an old battery. I get Walmart Every Start Max battery and these will last easy 5 years: Make sure the battery is made by S.C Johnson and Co in WI.

 

[Seanshine]

As an update: I replaced the battery. No charge across the terminals. I disconnected all aftermarket accessories (just lights) and cleaned the terminals. Still nothing. I replaced the alternator two years ago and thought maybe it was the plug so I bought a brand new one and rewired today. Still no charge across the terminals. Did I get a bum alternator? I’d hate to buy another one two years later, but as of now my Land Cruiser is a useless 25 year old vehicle taking up space so I guess I have to.

 

[GerLC100]

have you measured AT THE ALTERNATOR?

How I understand it right now:
You can jump the car and it stays on.
Is that right?

 

[Seanshine]

have you measured AT THE ALTERNATOR?

How I understand it right now:
You can jump the car and it stays on.
Is that right?

I should have updated. No, car dies. Battery lost charge and died. I can jump it but it dies as soon as either the charge drops too low or the jumpers are removed. There is nothing getting to the battery to charge. The 140 amp fuse is fine.

 

[Wheeliee]

If you have to charge the battery to keep it running it is most likely the alternator . Especially if you didn’t replace w OEM. I just dealt w this in mine. I tried to save money and got an eBay alt. and It was bad right out of the box. I bit the bullet and got the Toyota reman at the dealer. I’d also inspect and clean the junction block connected to the positive battery post and make sure none of the fuses are blown. You can remove the little black covers and see if the connection there is rusty. That is an area known to cause high resistance.

 

[2001LC]

As an update: I replaced the battery. No charge across the terminals. I disconnected all aftermarket accessories (just lights) and cleaned the terminals. Still nothing. I replaced the alternator two years ago and thought maybe it was the plug so I bought a brand new one and rewired today. Still no charge across the terminals. Did I get a bum alternator? I’d hate to buy another one two years later, but as of now my Land Cruiser is a useless 25 year old vehicle taking up space so I guess I have to.

FSM test for output charging voltage, is done at alternator. But I've found, checking how much output charge is coming from alternator. Works well enough, from batteries clamps.

If alternator, under changing (sulfates batteries) or overcharging (kills battery fast). Replace the alternator, with OEM only.
Buy cheap aftermarket, get cheap!

Keep in mind. The voltage read directly on/from battery post, should be the same on clamps at all times or any point check from. If a voltage drop, clean post and clamps. Do not use that red CRC battery junk. It, like oxidation and some types of grease. Will inhibit the connects between clamp & post, which results in under charge.


Make sure the fuse block, that hangs on battery positive clamp, all good. Vary by year, this is 07.

 

[GerLC100]

Before buying a new alternator:
My understanding is that you measured the battery for now. Did you measure the output at the alternator terminals?

If alternator provided power, but cables are bad… move „from the source“ step by step.

And as others mentioned:
Don‘t buy cheap, no Oreillys or so.
Had the same on my van: stock alt broke, got a new one from Oreilly on the trip, broke half year later and I got a new one. Broke again… and then Napa asked me „you want Denso? Bosch?…“

 

[Seanshine]

I did buy a Denso reman last time. Just got another denso reman to replace it with this evening.

 

[mytoysgoboom]

I did buy a Denso reman last time. Just got another denso reman to replace it with this evening.

did the new alternator fix your issue? I'm having similar issues with mine, and think it's the alternator, but wanted to see if replacing the alternator fixed your issue. my failure came with virtually no warning (lights started to dim, but only 3 minutes before the entire engine cut out).

I tested the battery, and it was bad so replaced but now my 100 will start fine and then immediately die.

 

[Wheeliee]

did the new alternator fix your issue? I'm having similar issues with mine, and think it's the alternator, but wanted to see if replacing the alternator fixed your issue. my failure came with virtually no warning (lights started to dim, but only 3 minutes before the entire engine cut out).

I tested the battery, and it was bad so replaced but now my 100 will start fine and then immediately die.

You need a volt meter and test the alternator output at the battery. You should have about 12.2 volts at the battery before starting and if the alternator is working you should have 13.2-14.4 volts roughly if it’s charging. If not you need an alternator. I’d also check that you don’t have any loose connections at the battery. I’d also make sure your junction block there at the battery isn’t corroded like the post above that has the pics of it.

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

I did buy a Denso reman last time.

The only vendor I would buy a reman Denso from is RockAuto.

Ebay and amazon vendors are littered with counterfeits and frauds these days.

 

[mytoysgoboom]

You need a volt meter and test the alternator output at the battery. You should have about 12.2 volts at the battery before starting and if the alternator is working you should have 13.2-14.4 volts roughly if it’s charging. If not you need an alternator. I’d also check that you don’t have any loose connections at the battery. I’d also make sure your junction block there at the battery isn’t corroded like the post above that has the pics of it.

my issue is the car won't idle so I cannot test the alternator (or at least I don't think I can). Car starts fine and revs to about 1k rpm initially (normal at least for mine) but then immediately stalls. If I rev the gas when starting and keep RPMs b/w 1500 and 2k the engine will run, until I let off the gas and then it immediately cuts out.

The battery currently reads 12.6 with the engine off. And if I rev it while starting and hold the RPMs as above, it reads b/w 13.3 -13.7. So I'm beginning to think my issue isn't in the alternator.

Edit to add: solved my issue. Ended up being the throttle body after talking to a Toyota tech. Cleaned that and the MAF. Now she idles and drives without dying. Will test alternator this weekend while I’m working on the other to do list items on the LC.