Electrical Issues After Storm Puddle Fun

[baltistyle]

Would this happened to have been in a puddle on 83 near Cold Spring Lane. Its a favorite of mine, LOL.

Is it possible the water intruded under the hood? Is there any water in the actual fuse box under the hood? Is there water in the Toyota connection near the right side front light? There is water sitting somewhere creating the constant short (unless its now been "welded").

I was meaning the obd connection near the fender…. Mine has a cap on it but I’d imagine some do not.

Editing to add that using a heat gun and then alcohol or contact cleaner, then drying with heat gun will be a very fast way to work in the freezing weather we are having..

I have an icarsoft but I don’t think it is of any help for a short. Also have a multimeter, heat gun (no garage unfortunately). I’m local in timonium if you needed.

 

[nissanh]

Reply to post-20:
That looks like a rely, not sure what it is.

 

[Les Summer]

I was meaning the obd connection near the fender…. Mine has a cap on it but I’d imagine some do not.

Editing to add that using a heat gun and then alcohol or contact cleaner, then drying with heat gun will be a very fast way to work in the freezing weather we are having..

I have an icarsoft but I don’t think it is of any help for a short. Also have a multimeter, heat gun (no garage unfortunately). I’m local in timonium if you needed.

Thanks for the offer but I am ok.

 

[Les Summer]

It was a very cold and tiring day. I learned things, but did not fix the short in the tail lights. I started my day figuring out how to remove my front bumper cover, and found that was the only thing that was easy to do today, everything else was failure. I went straight after the plug where I suspected my short was going to be. As you can see from the photo I stripped all the plastic coating off to expose the wires, and you can see there is mud and water all over, and one of the wire conductors are exposed. I examined the conductors, and it did not appear any of them were broken. More the case is I broke the wire insulation when I straightened the cold wire after disconnecting the plug. I drenched everything down with electrical parts cleaner, and I taped up the exposed wire and plugged it back up.

I inserted a new 15amp fuse in my tail light terminal, and in about 5 minutes I got another whiff of burnt plastic and the fuse was popped again.

I plugged the Power Probe ECT3000 into the 15Amp fuse terminal for the tail lights under the dash. I was suprised to see the reading telling me I have an OPEN circuit, and not a SHORT circuit like I was expecting. I soon learned I need to look at the manual once more to understand how to use the ECT3000 tool better.

It does not sound like a lot, but after all that I was hours in the garage, freezing off my butt, and done. I had a nice side issue with the sliding drawer to my Yukon work bench that ended up occupying me for an hour trying to fix.

While the tail light fuse was in, and before it popped, everything was working fine. When it pops I lose my dash lighting, and all of my tail lights.

Even with its failures, it was a productive day. I learned it was easy to remove the bumper cover. I learned what is probably NOT the cause of my tail lights being out, and I invested some time inspecting wires near my front blinkers and rear wire harnesses by my trailer hitch, and I can't see any noticeable melts or issues.

 

[nissanh]

Use liquid tape to insulate wires exposed to weather. Insulating tape does not make a perfet seal like liquid tape does.
If you have the wiring diagram, identify all the devices fed by that fuse. Remove all easy to accessible bulbs. Stay with a 10 A fuse and then turn the blinker and observe the outcome. You will have to take a step at a time. You do not have a serious electrical issue, it is some water intrusion causing the fuse to blow.

IF you want to take it to a shop, I'd advice you to take it to Ivan in Central PA (Pine Hallow Auto Diagnostics: look it up on youtube).

 

[Les Summer]

Use liquid tape to insulate wires exposed to weather. Insulating tape does not make a perfet seal like liquid tape does.
If you have the wiring diagram, identify all the devices fed by that fuse. Remove all easy to accessible bulbs. Stay with a 10 A fuse and then turn the blinker and observe the outcome. You will have to take a step at a time. You do not have a serious electrical issue, it is some water intrusion causing the fuse to blow.

IF you want to take it to a shop, I'd advice you to take it to Ivan in Central PA (Pine Hallow Auto Diagnostics: look it up on youtube).

Thank you, I found that response helpful. Frustrating weekend for sure. IT's funny, I just saw liquid tape today and Home Depot and thought hmmm... Yeah, something is wet and grumpy besides me. I willl probably go after this again when the weather is nice. I'm not the arctic man I thought I was. 23 degrees in a garage with no heat and I was pretty bet up.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

Have you looked at the trailer light wiring, if you have some under the rear?
I thought I remember there being some issues with some of the original “converter” boxes for trailer lights and corrosion/shorting issues.
Just thinking at it.

 

[Les Summer]

Have you looked at the trailer light wiring, if you have some under the rear?
I thought I remember there being some issues with some of the original “converter” boxes for trailer lights and corrosion/shorting issues.
Just thinking at it.

I got back there briefly. It was with the back end of my truck sticking out of my little garage. with the snow on the ground I didn't spend too much time. I have a connection point for a trailer hookup, but it's nicely capped. I have a big spare in the road, and I don't know what's behind that. I have to get back there and look again.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

I got back there briefly. It was with the back end of my truck sticking out of my little garage. with the snow on the ground I didn't spend too much time. I have a connection point for a trailer hookup, but it's nicely capped. I have a big spare in the road, and I don't know what's behind that. I have to get back there and look again.

Trailer plug troubleshoting

Hello Mudmates, I went to buy a new small utility trailer and the stores policy is that all the lights must work. Unfortunately, my right side turn signal and brake light didn't function. I could use a schematic if someone has one handy and any suggestions. Is it fused or ???? And no i haven't...

forum.ih8mud.com

This might be where I read about one of the stories about it.

 

[Les Summer]

Trailer plug troubleshoting

Hello Mudmates, I went to buy a new small utility trailer and the stores policy is that all the lights must work. Unfortunately, my right side turn signal and brake light didn't function. I could use a schematic if someone has one handy and any suggestions. Is it fused or ???? And no i haven't...

forum.ih8mud.com

This might be where I read about one of the stories about it.

I'll have to see if I have the converter box behind left tail light on body as it's described in the thread. Thanks! I'll check it out.

 

[Les Summer]

Even though I’m just learning how to read this manual, it’s absolutely magnificent

 

[Les Summer]

Book is very detailed and explains the diagrams so you know what you’re looking at

 

[Les Summer]

I have now learned my tail light and stop light 15 amp fuses both blew at the same time. According to the diagram in my electrical FSM, they both share a common junction, which is near the lower driver's side rear wheel well. This is either inside the body or possible on the frame. I'm thinking it's on the frame, and might be where water intrusion occurred, as it's on the same side of the huge puddle I went thru. I will look there first. I see the trailer socket has a wire coming out of it that will lead right to it. I'm hoping I find something there. If not, I have other places to look. Many junctions are shared by the tail and stop lights.

 

[Les Summer]

Observation Power Probe ECT3000:
While this is an amazing tool for finding short circuits, and open circuits, it's not as amazing for finding open circuits. You have to be already pretty involved with pulling wiring harness completely apart for the probe to find an open. There is a plastic antenna, which needs to be very close to, if not touching the wire with the open circuit to get a reading. If you have this tool, this is helpful to know. Shorts are different because there is live current, and the reading on the ECT3000 device will give you a direction to follow, unlike with an open, you are basically relying the open/broken wire to act as an antenna, and like I said, you need to be really close to, if not right on the broken wire to following it along until you lose your signal to find the open circuit.

Observation with Unplugging the light method:
I have unplugged each corner light cluster on the vehicle one at a time, while still getting the open circuit behavior symptom on my dash (press brake pedal and right signal light illuminates on the instrument cluster) each time.

Observation replacing tail light bulbs:
I have base lined all the rear bulbs, replacing a total of 6 bulbs, between the two rear corner light assy's. 7440 7443 and the signal bulb on each side, totaling 6 bulbs replaced, 3 on each corner. I saved the bulbs I removed. I then set in 10 amp fuses in place of the 15 amp fuses for the stop light and tail light 15amp locations. I did not blow any fuses for about 5 minutes, and got no symptom. I was hoping I got lucky, so I placed the 15 amp fuses back in, and took out the 10's and drove off. The 10 amp fuses never blew either. 10 minutes up the road my right turn signal symbol started to slowly illuminate on the instrument cluster as I was stepping on the brake pedal. Rats, back to the drawing board.

Observation basic test light procedure:
I purchased a good quality Dorman test light from Advanced Auto, and began my work with it. I tested power at the front signals, and rear wiring harness where it plugs into the tail light cluster. My power was good on all 4 corners. With this particular test light, if it DOES NOT make an audible noise and light up, then you either have no power going to the circuit, or there is an open circuit. I uncapped the trailer socket, and with my vehicle started and all my lights turned on, the same way I performed tests on the 4 corners, this time I got nothing when I probed the trailer socket. Nothing.

Observation of visible findings:
I got on my back under the rear to try to find the junction shared by the stop lights and tail lights located, according to diagram, behind the driver's rear wheel. There is big plug that goes into the body, and the junction leads up from there, but is not reachable. I think if I were to be able to get my hands on it, I'd have to pull out the rear driver's cargo plastic and it'd be down in there. I was smelling a burnt fuse smell coming from the rear, but it's still hard to follow with my nose. Nothing melted under or around the spare tire, but that doesn't mean a whole lot. I pried into a few of the plastic wire cluster covers leading from the trailer plug, hoping to find a broken wire, especially near the tow hitch where the wire is zip tied, but no luck.

NEXT OBJECTIVE and CURRENT OUTCOME:
As of right now I am no longer blowing fuses, but that could quickly change. After replacing my 15 amp fuses for tail light and stop lights I no longer have any warning lights on the dash, and everything is working normally, with the exception of the right turn signal illumination symbol slowly glowing up to about half of its brightness when I am stepping on the brake pedal. I think this is either going to come back with a vengeance, or we will get a few warm days with no rain and this will become a really elusive open circuit with no symptoms to follow around anymore. Since this issue has occurred it's been rain and then cold, or both. No really dry days at all. My next move will be to pull out the rear cargo plastic and have a look down where that junction is hiding. That might be all I do for now unless I start blowing fuses again or get new symptoms. Even if I do spot the junction, and I can put hands on it, I'm not sure I'm going to pull wires apart unless I spot an obvious problem. ALSO, I will be checking GROUND WIRES a lot more closely.

Thanks if you've kept up reading all of this, I'd love to hear any feedback.

 

[Africaster]

Uneducated guess #1 = grounding somewhere
Uneducated guess #2 = have you considered diving into the under the dash section of the puzzle?

good luck, may the force be with you

 

[Les Summer]

Uneducated guess #1 = grounding somewhere
Uneducated guess #2 = have you considered diving into the under the dash section of the puzzle?

good luck, may the force be with you

Your guess is as good as mine. I have not considered going under the dash because I believe this is a water intrusion induced problem
I’m more focused on areas where water would have made contact
on the last part of my long previous post, I mentioned that is going to be my next order of business is to check a particular ground that is located Inside the rear drivers quarter panel

 

[baltistyle]

I might suggest it’s time to break out the hose, spray different sections in a methodical way, and to try to repeat the issue. This can help narrow down the area. Good luck

 

[Les Summer]

I might suggest it’s time to break out the hose, spray different sections in a methodical way, and to try to repeat the issue. This can help narrow down the area. Good luck

I might have to now get around with a water spray bottle to repeat the symptom. It warmed up to 74 today and the gremlin is gone. No more symptom. I think I’m going to supplement my next plan of action with dielectric grease and contact cleaner, and go after some plugs. Additionally, Maybe remove the spare tire to get a look at the wires under there. Although, I don’t think water got up in there.

 

[Les Summer]

Have you looked at the trailer light wiring, if you have some under the rear?
I thought I remember there being some issues with some of the original “converter” boxes for trailer lights and corrosion/shorting issues.
Just thinking at it.

SOLVED

Oh my gooooooodness!!! ahhhh!! all this time!!! SO, I was driving home last night and it's raining cats and dogs. The dang instrument cluster is going nuts, VSC off, trac light, both signals lit up like a Christmas tree. I put on the 4 way flashers and the vehicle starts to stumble with flashers on. I'm devastated. I've been working so hard to make this a strong truck, which I so desperately need. I got home from work and go right for the fun box under dash, and check all my lights. no fuses blown, and all my lights are working, but my dash is lit up like a Christmas tree, and I smelll burning plastic really strong coming from the rear. I dive in the trunk and start pulling the plastic where the jack is stored, but I say wait. I get all my clean work clothes a dang mess, but I get under the truck in the rear, and decide it's time here and now to drop the spare tire. I smell the burn VERY STRONG right there, even more than in the trunk. So this friggin harness for the trailer, which I already knew had no power, was 100 percent the culprit!!! @89BIGBLUE touch down! It actually is a whole circuit, that all this time, I could simply have just unplugged and removed. It's completely independent from the factory harness. I just have to remove some old zip ties and get it out of there on my next day off. Since unplugging it I have no more burnt plastic smell, and even while raining, the symptoms stay completely gone for longer than I've ever seen them gone since this problem started.

I thought I was going to find the black box somewhere in the cargo area behind that plastic, but in fact it was tucked up on top of the frame (you see my hand feeling for it in the pic) and with the spare tire completely in the way of accessing it. I am lucky. I am humbled. All is right with the world once again. When I get that rascal off I'll be sure to snap a picture of it before I goes in the dumpster. Wow, so many problems over that stupid thing. I was losing my mind.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

SOLVED

Oh my gooooooodness!!! ahhhh!! all this time!!! SO, I was driving home last night and it's raining cats and dogs. The dang instrument cluster is going nuts, VSC off, trac light, both signals lit up like a Christmas tree. I put on the 4 way flashers and the vehicle starts to stumble with flashers on. I'm devastated. I've been working so hard to make this a strong truck, which I so desperately need. I got home from work and go right for the fun box under dash, and check all my lights. no fuses blown, and all my lights are working, but my dash is lit up like a Christmas tree, and I smelll burning plastic really strong coming from the rear. I dive in the trunk and start pulling the plastic where the jack is stored, but I say wait. I get all my clean work clothes a dang mess, but I get under the truck in the rear, and decide it's time here and now to drop the spare tire. I smell the burn VERY STRONG right there, even more than in the trunk. So this friggin harness for the trailer, which I already knew had no power, was 100 percent the culprit!!! @89BIGBLUE touch down! It actually is a whole circuit, that all this time, I could simply have just unplugged and removed. It's completely independent from the factory harness. I just have to remove some old zip ties and get it out of there on my next day off. Since unplugging it I have no more burnt plastic smell, and even while raining, the symptoms stay completely gone for longer than I've ever seen them gone since this problem started.

I thought I was going to find the black box somewhere in the cargo area behind that plastic, but in fact it was tucked up on top of the frame (you see my hand feeling for it in the pic) and with the spare tire completely in the way of accessing it. I am lucky. I am humbled. All is right with the world once again. When I get that rascal off I'll be sure to snap a picture of it before I goes in the dumpster. Wow, so many problems over that stupid thing. I was losing my mind.

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Strong work!

There are replacement/new converter boxes available, if you want to get the trailer lights working again. They’re not much more than the same part that you removed. I put one in mine. So far so good.

Again, strong work!