Electrical issue. (1 Viewer)

[Shikha]

I've been experiencing this issue for about a month now. No clue what it could be.
Let me try to describe the situation.
On occasion when i got to start the truck, insert the key turn to acc., everything looks fine, and then when I turn it on it doesn't start. The starter doent even turn. No sound, the entire truck is dead. No dome light, no instrument cluster lights, nothing. Turn off & turn back on, nothing, no lights what so ever. It's dead!
Then I connect my jumper & insert the key, all the lights come on at acc., & starts when turned on. I have a Scangange, it reads the voltage as usual. 13.1 to 14.2. No codes on the Scangauge. It drives as it should, the only thing I've notice is the radio cuts in & out & even restarts (goes to the Toyota screen) its self while driving.
I took it to Autozone to see if it was the battery (Odyssey battery was installed less that 2 years ago), on the first test the battery tested good, alternator tests good, starter tested good. However on the second test, the starter had a second 'click', but the truck started. On the second try it stated the starter failed, battery & alternateor good.

Just came back home, pulled into my driveway, turned the truck of, then tried to start again, its dead.

Anyone else having or experienced anything similar to this? Any help, would be appreciated.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

If it starts when jumping, sounds like it's your battery.

 

[Shikha]

If it starts when jumping, sounds like it's your battery.

Just tested the battery. it passed & is fully changed.

 

[Camotubebender]

Did you clean the battery connections?

 

[Shikha]

Did you clean the battery connections?

yes, they are clean.

 

[Camotubebender]

check ground connections and battery cable at starter connection.
and in case you didn't already-take the battery cables off the battery and clean the posts and inner cable connections with a battery post cleaner.

 

[2001LC]

Acting like a loose ground.

I'd start at battery, check volts from post. Then at clamps. Volts should always match that as seen from post. Then move to/from positive clamp/or post to first body ground off negative cable. Keep working back. Check all grounds to engine. I can think of 3 off-hand i.e. engine lift bracket DS, near heater tees a wire housing clips together, frame to block DS. A very hard one to see, is under intake manifold. If starter has been replaced, the bolt that holds ground wires may have loosen, due to not being torqued down.

Any service works that could have even touched a wire, in past few years. I'd look at closely. Working backward form most current service work or toy add on.

Also inspect fuse boxes very closely. Make sure to check fuse box drivers foot well.

 

[excessive]

could it be the notorious fuse block issue?

 

[nissanh]

How old is the battery? We see a lot of starting issues when weather gets cold. Older LC's have a separate housing even with a rubber seal to mount to hood to keep the battery isolated from the elements, unfortunately, not in 100 or 200.

 

[Shikha]

check ground connections and battery cable at starter connection.
and in case you didn't already-take the battery cables off the battery and clean the posts and inner cable connections with a battery post cleaner.

You are referring to the ground cable that goes to the starter, yes?

Acting like a loose ground.

I'd start at battery, check volts from post. Then at clamps. Volts should always match that as seen from post. Then move to/from positive clamp/or post to first body ground off negative cable. Keep working back. Check all grounds to engine. I can think of 3 off-hand i.e. engine lift bracket DS, near heater tees a wire housing clips together, frame to block DS. A very hard one to see, is under intake manifold. If starter has been replaced, the bolt that holds ground wires may have loosen, due to not being torqued down.

Any service works that could have even touched a wire, in past few years. I'd look at closely. Working backward form most current service work or toy add on.

Also inspect fuse boxes very closely. Make sure to check fuse box drivers foot well.

Will take a look at all the grounding wires/cables. No starter work has been done on this truck since 2017. However, the T-belt service & radiator was replaced a month ago.

How old is the battery? We see a lot of starting issues when weather gets cold. Older LC's have a separate housing even with a rubber seal to mount to hood to keep the battery isolated from the elements, unfortunately, not in 100 or 200.

Battery was installed May 20222. Battery was tested last night & passed. was at 99% charge.

 

[2001LC]

Will take a look at all the grounding wires/cables. No starter work has been done on this truck since 2017. However, the T-belt service & radiator was replaced a month ago.

7 years since starter replaced, does indicate that ground okay. But don't rule out, keep in back of mind.

T-belt and rad work, should not touch grounds. Except the battery is removed. It seems you check battery cables, but be sure they're sung. Do not over tighten, just sung, until they will not spin on post with medium force.

Make sure alternator wires connected properly. Especially if alternator serviced during T-belt service.

Make sure to check ground at heater tees. I've not seen this one cause your issue. But others have report they did, here in mud.

It seems someone recently report issue with footwell fuse box, and total loss of power.

 

[GerLC100]

Perhaps stupid, but coming from a different angle: if battery, alternator and similar is all good, what about the ingnition switch? perhaps coincidence with the jumper and just not detecting a key is in and where it is?!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Again, if it starts jumping it, it's likely your battery. There's been plenty of reports on here of batteries "testing" just fine, they've put in a new battery and it's resolved the issue.

 

[Shikha]

Here’s an update on my electrical issue.

After all the responses from members, which I greatly appreciate, seems like most of the recommendations were to check the battery & grounding connections. So Thursday, I checked all the connection, made sure they were all snug & then I took my multi-meter & started getting readings, starting at the battery. FYI, I have an Odyssey Battery (31-PC2150T), which has the terminal centered on the battery rather than towards the end. In order to keep the OEM fusible link, I procured the military style terminals with the extensions.

At the Battery I was getting 12.67v. at the extensions I was getting 3.27v, . Seem like this was the point on concern. Visually the connection between the 2 were clean. Nevertheless, I removed the extensions took a wire brush to the inside where the lead battery terminal would make contact with the extensions. Reinstalled the terminals & extensions & now I was getting 12. 67v at the terminal & at the extensions. Started up the truck, fired up without any hesitation. Did it a few times & started every time. It’s been firing up in the morning the last couple of days since & seem like the issues has been resolved.

I am truly grateful to all of your input & suggestions. Without your input i would be

 

[nissanh]

Good! This is the reason we all are here!
You would not believe I have seen aftermarket terminals show a voltage drop of about 0.5 V, this is just at the terminal (measured + wire of Voltmeter on battery terminal and - wire of VM on the A/M terminal). This is why it is important to keep OEM spec at all times. Any mod we do without knowing the science behind it can cause issues. Different metals have different conductivities.