Builds Electric TLC FJ-40 Build (3 Viewers)

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Excited to see this come to life
 
Love it. Could this be the first single piece case broken by an electric motor? That being said I'm sure the programming could limit how much torque is applied in certain situations.
 
I love the idea of actually hearing gravel, leaves, and twigs crunch under the tires while crawling off-road. Imagine your winch being louder than your drivetrain!
 
@ElectricGT why are you using the OEM transmission? Couldn't you couple the twins directly to the transfer case and gain some efficiency?
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
@ElectricGT why are you using the OEM transmission? Couldn't you couple the twins directly to the transfer case and gain some efficiency?
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At my job we have do a ton of electro-mechanical systems for large materials handling machines and you find that while you can modulate the frequency to adjust the RPM, the motor is optimized around name plate specs (usually ~1760 RPM for most industrial motors.) You can see this in the graph posted. You can also get tremendous torque multiplication from using mechanical gearing such as the 3:1 first gear allowing for smaller motors, just like a gas engine
 
ryanwk628 said:
At my job we have do a ton of electro-mechanical systems for large materials handling machines and you find that while you can modulate the frequency to adjust the RPM, the motor is optimized around name plate specs (usually ~1760 RPM for most industrial motors.) You can see this in the graph posted. You can also get tremendous torque multiplication from using mechanical gearing such as the 3:1 first gear allowing for smaller motors, just like a gas engine
Click to expand...

I understand, but maximum torque of an electric motor is at 0 RPM. HP is optimized at the name plate RPM, not torque. Torque to get moving, HP to keep moving at ideal RPM.

Final drive can be modified at the transfer case in high range too.
 
ElectricGT said:
This is going to be a neat project :rofl: This 1970 FJ-40 is being converted to 100% electric drive. This thread will document the details of the build (also linked to here via ElectricGT). The new power plant will be Twin HPEVS AC-50 electric motors. The twins will be assembled end-to-end "in-line" and will be coupled to the OEM transmission and shiftable with the original "three-on-the-tree" column shifter. Target power supply & installation is 42 kWhr of Tesla modules. Twin-motors will deliver a base of 182 horsepower (wired 30s 124v on 650 amps) and 240 ft/lbs of torque (adjustable to @200HP & 300 ft/lbs) at ZERO RPMs. (OEM specs 125Hp/210 ft/lbs). Sure to be a sneaky 4x4.

Stay tuned....
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Why inline? I thought the triple motor configuration you did for the Electric 308 was a really nice package where as the inline jobs Ive seen have not seemed very conducive to retro fits (stack up length.) Also assuming you bring all three motors to a common shaft, that would be an area for some gearing to adjust peak values to an RPM going into the trans closer to the 3,600RPM where the F was designed for peak HP

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GLTHFJ60 said:
I understand, but maximum torque of an electric motor is at 0 RPM. HP is optimized at the name plate RPM, not torque. Torque to get moving, HP to keep moving at ideal RPM.

Final drive can be modified at the transfer case in high range too.
Click to expand...

Instant torque is great. I was citing RPM as name plate values for where motors are optimized to run corresponding to a given frequency. It has been my experience that a motor designed to run at 60Hz doesn't behave as one would hope when you modulate the heck out of it and they operate best in and around the range they were designed for. For example the fan may not turn fast enough to cool it (ask me how I know.) A lot of VFDs have limitations on how low they will go before they start tripping. There are always trade offs.

Personally I love the idea of keeping a gear box in it. It is hard enough to get a manual in any modern vehicle these days so keeping the driving experience as close to what it was is great IMO. I think it is awesome they saved the column shift. Also as the big tire guys will tell you: more gears = good. haha
 
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tls3601 said:
Noob to electric vehicles but just curious what cost in electricity is needed to charge up a new Tesla which I believe has a 300 mile cruising range?
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I am sure the Tesla cars are more efficient than my home made EV but at nine cents per Kw it costs about $3.27 to go 100 miles. That is $.0327 a mile. I can knock it down to $2.43 per 100 miles if I drive slow but where is the fun in that.
ElectricGT, You say first is to tall. Don't you mean short as in low?
I normally use second and third for take off.
My car has no clutch so I pick a gear and go.
I really like the fact that I can now follow my two favorite subjects(EV's & TLC's) in one shot.
 
4x4veteran said:
I am sure the Tesla cars are more efficient than my home made EV but at nine cents per Kw it costs about $3.27 to go 100 miles. That is $.0327 a mile. I can knock it down to $2.43 per 100 miles if I drive slow but where is the fun in that.
ElectricGT, You say first is to tall. Don't you mean short as in low?
I normally use second and third for take off.
My car has no clutch so I pick a gear and go.
I really like the fact that I can now follow my two favorite subjects(EV's & TLC's) in one shot.
Click to expand...


Short would be correct:). Keeping clutch & flywheel on this build though. Good input on power costs too.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
@ElectricGT why are you using the OEM transmission? Couldn't you couple the twins directly to the transfer case and gain some efficiency?
Click to expand...


Its been considered. But with our twin AC-50's the Trans provides gearing options for driving. Not like standard shifting as it should drive well in 2nd or 3rd without shifting including reverse via a basic switch. We looked at a Tesla motor feeding the input shaft and had visions of a lot of metal bits. Aiming for a smooth conversion that is reliable on a tried system seeing as this one is headed off shore.
 
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A cruiser would be 1000X better than a rover, but it shows that it can be done. I'm looking forward to seeing what the future brings as more electric vehicles are mainstream.
 
Battery box is back from fabrication. Build adjustment: Battery pack reduced from 14 Tesla Gen one Smart modules to 12 to preserve Foot room/ functionality of back seat for the kids! Even the tall lanky intern fits well before the seat height is brought down @2". Time to paint it to match and then start bolting it in and installing 36 kWhr worth of batteries. 504 lbs. Expected Range 75-95 miles. Prefect cels to maximize density as they fit perfectly across the floor and are about level height to internal wheel wells.

Link to battery specs: Tesla Smart Lithium Ion Battery 18650 EV Module - 57 Volt, 3kWh, EV West - Electric Vehicle Parts, Components, EVSE Charging Stations, Electric Car Conversion Kits

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The battery link mentions liquid cooling/heating - is that something that has to be addressed - especially when enclosed? How much more capacity could you fit if you also used the space under the bed or the engine bay for batteries?
 
Is the battery pack going to make the rear seat too high? Often bench seats mounted to the top of the fenders are too high for rear passengers.

Could a battery pack be built to mount under the floor?
 
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