Early toyotas with late model OEM wheels

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That doesn't mean that the next one ground-on won't fail. Define what a failure is. To me that is anything that results in greater than original caliber body flexing is a failure. This flexing is fatigue failure coming down the rails. This isn't something where you can say "done it all the time, never had a failure" because you don't know where you can and can't remove material from any particular caliper without intimate knowledge of that design.

Said differently, the Scientific Method says that one (1) failure of any type makes the theory invalid. That applies here too. Just because you've never heard of it happening doesn't mean that it hasn't happened or that won't happen or that it has happened and whomever it happened to failed to recognize the source of the problem and didn't report it as a failure.

Looked at yet again differently, the OEMs cut costs where ever they can. Metal costs money. If that metal didn't have a valid engineering reason for being there it would have been removed. Factor in that extra metal on the spindle is a ride quality issue as it is more unsprung weight. If that part could have been made from a lighter metal or contained less metal overall and still been able to do it's job it would be been made that way.

Having spent a lot of time using Finite Element Analysis analyzing caliper body design I can tell you that there are places where a certain body could be thinned down and there are definitely places where they need more material there than other constraints will allow. The locations where wheels categorically tend to rub on caliper bodies are all in the zones of "needs more material there". This is true of both sliding and fixed calipers.
It may not have been noticeable, but those ground-on GM calipers flexed more and that would result in slightly more pedal travel. Where wheels always rub on them is the bridge over the rotor (bad place to grind), the corner transition between the bridge and the 'fingers' holding the outboard brake pad (even worse place to grind), and sometimes the fingers them selves (not a great place to grind, but probably not too bad unless close to the corner transition and then a bad place to grind).

Sorry for the hijack, but people who blindly assume that they can modify something they know nothing about, and that mod results in a safety concern that they are clueless of really gripes my arse.
 
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I understand, and I was very careful to only remove the bare minimum of material. The area of interference was a small part of the inboard cooling fin (by inboard, I mean closest to the wheel hub). I felt removing a small part of the caliper in this area was a trade-off I was OK with, since I have v6 rotors that are vented, slotted, and cross-drilled. Heat generated should be dissipated by the rotors before it becomes a problem for the caliper. Besides the 4Runner is a fairly light vehicle and my brakes are probably overkill to begin with. I appreciate your input on this. FYI these are OEM Toyota circa 95 4Runner calipers.
 
[HIJACK]As a former Brake Design Engineer it simply boggles me that people think grinding on a caliper body is a good idea. It is NEVER a good idea. It rarely is a poor idea, and it almost always is an extremely BAD idea. Yet it is done all of the time by people who have no concept of how badly they just compromised the safety of the vehicle.[/HIJACK]

Typically on these trucks we are talking about grinding the cooling fins, not the caliper body.
 
Those might look like "cooling fins" but they are much more likely to be stiffening ribs. If the caliper body is getting warm enough to need cooling fins you've got a really bad and under-sized design.

HIJACK off
 
Good info thread. Mostly what I was looking for.

I'm going to try these 2012 Tacoma wheels on my 1986 Pickup. I expect they'll sit a tad narrower than my current alloys with 31" because of the backspacing. I'll report back.

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They worked.

2012 Tacoma wheels on 1986 pickup.

These have no hub or brake clearance issues. However, they have about 1” less backspacing than my previous alloys, so they seem to rub tires at full turn a little, particularly with any articulation.

They’ll do for now. I’ll go back to my 15” alloys when I get around to buying a new set of tires. These were free from a friend.

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2017 TRD Tacoma Wheels on 1986 IFS 4runner
 
This is exactly what i was looking to do! Did you have any fitment issues? I currently have 5th gen 4r TRD Trail wheels on my first gen. I had some clearance issues on the rear axle. Had to machine them a little to fit. But now i'm looking to go to a little smaller rim and love these taco wheels. Plus i just found a new set of take offs for $600 with tires!


2017 TRD Tacoma Wheels on 1986 IFS 4runner

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So are you guys with the 1st Gen runners using spacers? I’m looking at running ‘99-‘00 era 5 spoke 17” wheels with BFG MTs from JK Rubicons. They are 255/75-17s so tall (ish) and skinny, and super common / affordable on CL.

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I should add they are going on an ‘89, so IFS is in play.

Gnob- what size tubing did you use for your bumpers?
 
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Rear bumper is 1.5 pipe with 1" overrider. Sliders are 1.5 pipe and 1 5/8 tube. Front is 1 5/8 tube.

You still kind of need to check fit on the 17s. The earlier ifs wheels are narrow like 5.5-6" compared to the 17s @ 7-7.5"

Also i am running 1.25 spacers on the rear. I have ifs hubs and 2" spacers on the front.
 
Ok. Awesome. Might just stick with what I have and look for some 33x10.50-15s then. Thanks!
 
Ok. Awesome. Might just stick with what I have and look for some 33x10.50-15s then. Thanks!

It's a shame you weren't in AZ, there's a set of 285/75/16's on OEM wheels for $400!

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Yeah, I’d give those a go. I’ve been through Tucson and all over Az a bunch of times, but my warehouse in Blaine Wa which is 100 feet south of the Canadian border, so shipping would be brutal. There’s a set here of 285 KM2s on the same wheels you have, but painted bronze. They are $900 though, and he claims to not want to sell the wheels with tires. If I have time I will see about trying the 17s on my ‘Runner. I’d love to swap the tires and wheels off my 100, but they are the 5 bolt pattern.

Are there spacers on your rig, or are the 16s bolted straight up?
 
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Are there spacers on your rig, or are the 16s bolted straight up?

There are 1-1/4" spacers on the front only. Those are the original solid axle front wheel hubs, so I had to put spacers on to keep the tires from hitting the frame in the back, ruining the turning radius.
 
There are 1-1/4" spacers on the front only. Those are the original solid axle front wheel hubs, so I had to put spacers on to keep the tires from hitting the frame in the back, ruining the turning radius.

But with the ‘86 and up IFS, they should work without spacers using a 285?
 
Picture 1 - stock LX450 rims with 285/75/16 BFG ATs
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Picture 2 - stock steel wheels with 33x10.5x15 BFG ATs

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Pic 3 - FZJ80 stock rims with 315/75/16 BFG MTs
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With IFS hubs you mean? I never actually ran those rims like that, so I can't say for sure.

I did have IFS wheel hubs on for many years, with the original SR5 15" rims with BFG KO's 33x10.50, worked fine. I had FROR spacers to push the brake rotors back so they worked in the calipers. But when I was putting the truck back on the road after the rebuild, the old rotors were completely stuck on, no way to get them off. So I switched back to the solid axle hubs.

I just remembered, the tires were rubbing on the leaf springs, not the frame. Spacers fixed that.
 

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