That looks really nice man. What bead roller are you using?
Builds Dusty the mini truck that wishes it was a Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter gpfj40
- Start date
-
- Tags
- land cruiser mini truck toyota
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 484
- Messages
- 14,279
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Nice job on the shifter install on the split case. You were probably referring to my thread, I haven’t seen anyone else do cables shifters for the split case yet.
I have to redo my 2wd -4wd bracket for my conversion, and I may loop it around like you did so mine all throw the same direction.
You realize your shifters aren’t going to all throw the same direction right?
I have to redo my 2wd -4wd bracket for my conversion, and I may loop it around like you did so mine all throw the same direction.
You realize your shifters aren’t going to all throw the same direction right?
- Thread starter
- #83
It very well could have been your thread, I can’t remember, if it was thanks for the idea. As for the direction of the throws, I didn’t really think about it, other than I figured all the cables need to go to either the back or the front given how short they are, I’ll live with how ever the throws are because space is a premium in front of the t case. Not with standing I plan on the 2-4 shifter closest to the driver since I seem to use that on the most.
You should post a link here so I can see your execution again.
- Thread starter
- #84
KMS tools, it was on sale for 175 cdn $.
Magnum Bead Roller [373206 ] | KMS Tools & Equipment
It worked pretty good for the first time I have ever bead rolled. I had the help of my 10 year old daughter turning the crank.
- Thread starter
- #85
It’s been 6-7 weeks since I’ve worked on this, life got in the way like it always does. I’ve reflected on how this project started, low buck, 6 month to completion; now I’m only 3 weeks from 2 years since I bought it. The only major change in the plan has been the upgrade from an all iron LQ4 to an all aluminium LS2.
Today I jumped back in to it, working on making the wiring changes needed due to the engine swap. First up was to pull all the loom off the harness, then extend a pair of valley knock sensors wires down to the side of the block where the Gen 3 valley knock sensors are tapped into the Gen 4 knock sensor location. Doing it this way will need custom tuning cause the known parameters for 1volt sensors don’t work in this location. Then I pulled the alternator charge cable from the harness so I can run it to the battery disconnect in the cab and then it will act as a kill switch. I also swapped the pig tails for the injectors since they needed upgrading for the engine. The cam sensor is now on the timing chain cover rather than behind the manifold so I moved that plug as well, then reloomed the whole harness.
I started swapping the ev14 style stock Delphi injectors which are 22lb/hr to the Bosch LS1 style ev6 injectors which are 30 lbs/hr. This is being done on the advice of DM Tuning in Lethbridge AB who has been super helpful with this Gen 3 ecu on a Gen 4 block PITA swap. I started down this injector swap path with a reman set from an 8.1L off ebay, but after flow checking them they varied 18% at idle and 10% at WOT. That was too far off for me. The LS1 set I bought is flow matched to 1%, from Preformance Fuel Injection in High River AB. I’ll need to space the rail up 3/4”.
Today I jumped back in to it, working on making the wiring changes needed due to the engine swap. First up was to pull all the loom off the harness, then extend a pair of valley knock sensors wires down to the side of the block where the Gen 3 valley knock sensors are tapped into the Gen 4 knock sensor location. Doing it this way will need custom tuning cause the known parameters for 1volt sensors don’t work in this location. Then I pulled the alternator charge cable from the harness so I can run it to the battery disconnect in the cab and then it will act as a kill switch. I also swapped the pig tails for the injectors since they needed upgrading for the engine. The cam sensor is now on the timing chain cover rather than behind the manifold so I moved that plug as well, then reloomed the whole harness.
I started swapping the ev14 style stock Delphi injectors which are 22lb/hr to the Bosch LS1 style ev6 injectors which are 30 lbs/hr. This is being done on the advice of DM Tuning in Lethbridge AB who has been super helpful with this Gen 3 ecu on a Gen 4 block PITA swap. I started down this injector swap path with a reman set from an 8.1L off ebay, but after flow checking them they varied 18% at idle and 10% at WOT. That was too far off for me. The LS1 set I bought is flow matched to 1%, from Preformance Fuel Injection in High River AB. I’ll need to space the rail up 3/4”.
- Thread starter
- #86
The fuel rail spacing is done and the new injectors are in. I placed the intake and carried on with the plumbing: fuel lines, steam port, trans cooler, rad hoses, PS lines(except they didn’t fit), PS reservoir, throttle cable/pedal and test fit the intake/air filter. I took the front wheels of to cycle the suspension for drive shaft measurements and while they were off I bolted on the callipers and tightened up the front brake lines and tie rod ends. While the rear tires were off for cycling the suspension driveshaft measuring i installed new to me (used) hyd bumps and heaver TJ coils since the back was sagging. I also clearanced a DC cv joint to get +30* out of it and replace the u joints.
Next up is the master cylinder, double line locks in the cab, vacuum line to booster, finish hand throttle, heater hoses, 1 more rad hose in the back, over flow hose, re sized PS hoses, most of which I’ll be waiting for parts for a week. I’ll likely get back into finishing the wiring the week while i’m waiting.
Next up is the master cylinder, double line locks in the cab, vacuum line to booster, finish hand throttle, heater hoses, 1 more rad hose in the back, over flow hose, re sized PS hoses, most of which I’ll be waiting for parts for a week. I’ll likely get back into finishing the wiring the week while i’m waiting.
- Thread starter
- #87
The intake air filter and through the hood snorkel is done complete with colour match rain cap. The pic from the previous post shows the under hood tube routing, the whole thing flexs when the hood opens. The cap is a cake pan from Walmart, welding it was tough not to warp or burn through.
Here are the sides skid/gussets or the sub frame. Used my 1.25” TMR dimple die. This is good practice at overhead welding.....
Here is the manual line lock plumed into the cab for a parking brake. This is a vw scat part from summit. The lower dash cover will fit over this and the knob is in the dash light dimmer location. Installed some new speakers too while wiring the deck and vhf radio.
This is all of the wires, hopefully, pulled through the fire wall. Believe it our not all of these have a home: gauges, accerories, park neutral SS, winch controls, light bars, compressor, etc
Here are the sides skid/gussets or the sub frame. Used my 1.25” TMR dimple die. This is good practice at overhead welding.....
Here is the manual line lock plumed into the cab for a parking brake. This is a vw scat part from summit. The lower dash cover will fit over this and the knob is in the dash light dimmer location. Installed some new speakers too while wiring the deck and vhf radio.
This is all of the wires, hopefully, pulled through the fire wall. Believe it our not all of these have a home: gauges, accerories, park neutral SS, winch controls, light bars, compressor, etc
I've been going toward the same idea for pulling cooler air from a hole in the hood rather than a snorkel deal out the side. With the amount of air I need to feed my set up it needs to be a big tube and going through the hood like that seems like the best way to keep the intake away from the side of the body where things could rip it off. Now I just need to figure out how to make my filter box.
- Thread starter
- #89
The Specter canister cone filter I’m using on Dusty is barely adequate for my set up in my opinion. Here are some pics of the filter box I built on my cruiser that used a 4” K&N cone filter which has a lot more filter area. I used 8” exhaust tube, my feelings are this could be a very high flow set up, its way over kill on the 4.8 in my cruiser.
As for todays update on Dusty, the sub frame sides are welded in and the skid plate under the sub frame is done. Unless I decide to put some dimpled holes in it.....
- Thread starter
- #90
It’s been all wiring all the time over the last week. Happy to say the gauges are done. Aux lighting, winch control, homemade elocker control, dash indicators, vhf radio, Bluetooth deck ($20 pick n pull deal) and battery disconnect/kill switch. This took longer than expected, and the out come is as planned. Now let’s hope the gauges actually work when I fire the engine.
Wow that looks great. I think the sheet metal screws will be fine for now. You can always add in nutserts down the road. Easy enough. Thanks for the update. Keep it up
- Thread starter
- #92
Thanks. Actually you bring up a good opertunity, since the next step it to pull the drive train out to weld and paint the subframe it would be a great to time to install some weld nuts on the underside, or maybe I should just tap threads into the tunnel flat bar.
As for the update, I finished all of the plumbing and wiring except looming under the hood. I also installed the front arb air locker lines too and from my manual gauge and dump switch. No annoying solinoids to fail for this guy!!!
Air locker hose and remote diff breather hose
PSC resivor and P pump
- Thread starter
- #93
Today I pulled the drive train out, welded and painted (primed) the rest of the sub frame. I also trimmed the top of the t case crossmember to clear the triple shifter cables and then mangled the trans dipstick tube to make it fit.
- Thread starter
- #94
I pulled the black box and split case apart to seal them up, new gaskets and seals, except the front output seal I had bought was the wrong one.
From there it was time to stab the drivetrain in for the last time. Both cross members are in and the plumbing and wiring harness are mostly hooked up. The triple stick cables and trans shifter are hooked up except a couple missing nuts. I had hoped to make noise with it this weekend but no luck, things just seam to take longer than I think they should. Need to install the front part of the exhaust then finish mounting the harness then put fluids in it.
From there it was time to stab the drivetrain in for the last time. Both cross members are in and the plumbing and wiring harness are mostly hooked up. The triple stick cables and trans shifter are hooked up except a couple missing nuts. I had hoped to make noise with it this weekend but no luck, things just seam to take longer than I think they should. Need to install the front part of the exhaust then finish mounting the harness then put fluids in it.
Sexy man.
That black box use NP241 guts?
That black box use NP241 guts?
- Thread starter
- #96
Thanks
Yes I believe so, you can buy an echo box from nwf if you want to press in your own plantary gear set from an np241. This land cruiser specific bb comes with the planetary set installed. The best part is it is an adaptor too, and shorter than the AA options.
I have an eco box in my 60, was curious if the black box was the same. Very cool.
You might want to put a mount under the back of the tranny and the Black box. I broke a couple of trannys cases before I got it right.
- Thread starter
- #99
You bet, it’s already in there. It’s mounted to the piece nwf supplies to adapt the bb to the th350, not those little tabs on the back of the tranny. Both the middle and rear crossmembers are solid in the center and attached to the frame with urathane bushings on either side. The engine mounts are Advanced Adaptor pucks so they are pretty firm. The urathane bushings on the two crossmembers should easily cover the frame flex, which is reduced by the sub frame. Or so I hope. Here is a pic further back in the thread before the subframe was added
I must have missed it, looks good.
Similar threads
