Builds DUKE - 1993 HDJ80 / 1HD-T / 5-Speed / 3x Locked / LHD *A slow DIY build / resto* (3 Viewers)

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Forgive my ignorance but I thought that the dual circuit brake master cylinder would prevent the catastrophic failure in both the front and the rear and a failure like you described. What am I missing? This is near and dear to me because @cruisermatt is just finishing fairly extensive brake work on our 93.
When the front brake line leaked, all the fluid from the reservoir was pushed out of the leak. Eventually there was no fluid in the reservoir and the piston in the master cylinder was empty and could not build pressure to actuate the rear brakes. Any leak in either circuit if left unplugged will allow all the fluid to be pushed out leaving both circuits inoperable. You would still have the mechanical parking brake to slow you down.
 
Forgive my ignorance but I thought that the dual circuit brake master cylinder would prevent the catastrophic failure in both the front and the rear and a failure like you described. What am I missing? This is near and dear to me because @cruisermatt is just finishing fairly extensive brake work on our 93.

He would still have rear brakes, but an 80 does not stop very well at all with only rear brakes. Especially if built up with a lot of accesories
 
Forgive my ignorance but I thought that the dual circuit brake master cylinder would prevent the catastrophic failure in both the front and the rear and a failure like you described. What am I missing? This is near and dear to me because @cruisermatt is just finishing fairly extensive brake work on our 93.
@cruisermatt Correct! When the fronts failed, there was still some braking in the rear but i would not have stopped me. Very weak if any at all with a built truck and manual proportioning valve.
 
Glad to hear the problem is solved….interested in a brake upgrade as well….Power Brakes look great. However, I have one of the earliest 80 series trucks out there and I have heard that the rotors are a different size (smaller). Not sure if you have that issue.
 
Glad to hear the problem is solved….interested in a brake upgrade as well….Power Brakes look great. However, I have one of the earliest 80 series trucks out there and I have heard that the rotors are a different size (smaller). Not sure if you have that issue.
You would need to go up a wheel size, but no biggie!
 
How's the wrap holding up? Would you do it again, or do anything differently?
Honestly it is holding up amazingly well! Plenty of trail time that would have left the paint in need of some serious buffing and the wrap still looks as new and polished as day 01. For a color change, i think a wrap like this is the way to go!
 
After driving to LA, more work began. Duke drove smoothly and beautifully. Couldn’t be more happy with my new daily driver And escape vehicle. Living the dream.

I ordered and rounded up as much as I could knowing the work I was planning on doing. The truck did not come with any documentation or maintenance records. Everything seemed clean but I had no dea what filters / fluids were used.

Over the course of the trip I used SeaFoam when I filled up. I ran two full tanks and two full cans of SeaFoam knowing i was planning on changing all the filters / fluids.

Over a few days I:
  1. Changed the oil (Shell Rotella t4 10W30 + zinc additive)
  2. Changed to an OEM oil filter
  3. New Transmission oil (Royal Purple 75W90)
  4. New Transfer case oil (Royal Purple 75W90)
  5. New Front and read Diff oil (Castrol 80W90)
  6. New OEM fuel Filter
  7. New Resco .3 micron fuel filter (used in Resco fuel / water separator filter)
  8. New FRAM air filter
I also installed a small oil catch can:

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I repainted the grill to freshen it up:
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Sloppy shot of the engine compartment:
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More to come!
Hi, did you really put Royal Purple 75W90 in the transmission???
 
NEW EXHAUST!
Installed the Manta Stainless 3in exhaust system on the 80. I preciously had the PPD system, which was fine, but the quality of the Manta is far superior. Seems like thicker walled tubing. I love the cerakote at all of the joints. Most notably, the routing is better because it runs within the frame rails from motor to tip. I went with the medium noise level and it sounds amazing! Not too drony on the highway, but nive and throaty with the windows down.

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Really enjoyed going through your thread - inspiration for my build, too. Great color choice and de-flared look...though, I'm a little biased.

The 37 gal LRA main fuel tank is a great addition for gas or diesel 80s, imo. It does hang below the frame rails by about 2-3 inches, but it's so helpful on longer trips.
 
Really enjoyed going through your thread - inspiration for my build, too. Great color choice and de-flared look...though, I'm a little biased.

The 37 gal LRA main fuel tank is a great addition for gas or diesel 80s, imo. It does hang below the frame rails by about 2-3 inches, but it's so helpful on longer trips.
Thanks for following along! I agree, the long range tank is amazing. Im building a touring rig, not a crawler, so its perfect!
 
NEW EXHAUST!
Installed the Manta Stainless 3in exhaust system on the 80. I preciously had the PPD system, which was fine, but the quality of the Manta is far superior. Seems like thicker walled tubing. I love the cerakote at all of the joints. Most notably, the routing is better because it runs within the frame rails from motor to tip. I went with the medium noise level and it sounds amazing! Not too drony on the highway, but nive and throaty with the windows down.
Like the exhaust, looks like it fits well. Do they have a North American dealer or did you have it shipped from AUS?
 
Had a bit of a brake-down on a recent trip!
This problem started awhile ago without me knowing it. We went camping about a month ago and who off-roading, my brake fluid level warning light started to flicker on. No problem. I had brake fluid to top up and I assumed that my pads were getting low. I saw no signs of a leak anywhere and didn't notice any soft of hindered brake performance. We made it home, no issue.

Cut to: 3 weeks later and I am heading home from another short camping trip. I am by myself and heading down a the mountain, taking some detours to search for more future camp spots. To my surprise, the brake fluid level warning light popped on again. There was no way the pads are fading this fast. I now know there is a leak somewhere... but I couldn't find one anywhere. hmmmm.
Now knowing something isn't right, i took it easy and tested the brakes by pushing as hard as i could when i was in a safe spot in case they did fail. Eventually... they failed. Pedal to the floor and nothing! I was able to engine brake and use the parking brake to come to a stop next to an abandoned motel.

What i ended up finding was that the intercooler piping was resting on the brake lines that attach to the bracket near the power steering box. Over time, the stress has cracked, and eventually, completely sheered the line. The line that broke went to the drivers front brake.

I was lucky to find an m10 x 1 plug in my intercooler piping (where a temp gauge could go) so that i could plug the brake at the 'T' under the master cylinder. I then JB welded a brake fitting shut to replace the fitting i borrowed from the intercooler. I was able to limp it home 4 more hours with this fix.

Once home, I bought the tools and supplies to make my own custom brake lines. I felt I could shorten some runs and simplify things a bit... so i did. I used TIG rod to mock up and design a line before bending the Copper Nickel line. Everything is working great now, but I am planing to upgrade the Booster, master, and front brakes with Powerbrakes. Stay Tuned!

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I am aware of this, the PDI manual says to take the bracket and move it but unfortunately the steering box is very close and the bracket can't be moved. How exactly did you route the line ?
 
I am aware of this, the PDI manual says to take the bracket and move it but unfortunately the steering box is very close and the bracket can't be moved. How exactly did you route the line ?
I fully deleted the bracket and the lines doing forward and just made new lines do straight down from the master cylinder
 
POWER STEERING UPDATE (UPGRADE)
I sourced and installed a brand new OEM 105 series box, new OEM 105 series high pressure lines, and I upgraded and relocated the cooler to behind the crossmember:

I cleaned and painted the frame with MRO Flat Black, which is a new favorite for OEM powder coat finish looks.

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POWER STEERING UPDATE (UPGRADE)
I sourced and installed a brand new OEM 105 series box, new OEM 105 series high pressure lines, and I upgraded and relocated the cooler to behind the crossmember:

I cleaned and painted the frame with MRO Flat Black, which is a new favorite for OEM powder coat finish looks.

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Keep on going buddy. Looks great!!!
 
Why you didn't brace the mounts around the steering box which tends to crack frequently. Would be great time to do that when all is out.


Can you please share a link to the cooler?
 

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