gilmorneau
SILVER Star
Every Euro-spec 80 that I've seen with a winch has the mechanical one (PTO), not the electric one.
Builds DUKE - 1993 HDJ80 / 1HD-T / 5-Speed / 3x Locked / LHD *A slow DIY build / resto*
- Thread starter bryce0225
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #402
Yup thats what I was finding as well, hence the different hiring harness i had deal with. Either way, I'm stoked on my little Frankenstein 80 haha
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- #403
Went to Colorado for a few weeks and installed a LRA 37 gallon replacement fuel tank. The direction were vague and wack, but we figured it out in the end.
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- #404
Also while in Colorado, I installed the fresh NIMBUS suspension system shocks and Dobinsons springs and steering damper. Simple instal, especially with the use of Cruisers and Company's lift. No broken bolts. I didn't know an 80 could ride this good. It's genuinely amazing. Oleo-pneumatic is something else.
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- #405
More NIMBUS goodness: 90% machined in house. Hardware and all. Proper aerospace stuff here.
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- #406
New windshield in today: Aftermarket glass from Spector Offroad (OE NLA) and OEM seal. The broken windsheil was just me having a little fun during the removal of the old one.
I see you went with the surround without the trim piece. I think that is the better choice. I learned the hard way that if you don't put in the trim piece in a trim piece surround you get leaks. The trim actually moves the rubber enough to complete the seal. The one you used is designed just to seal. Did you end up using any sealant?
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Sealant is required with it. Did any USDM 80s come with the 2 piece seal? I’ve never seen one.
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- #410
Yes sealent was used against glass and on the body. I just followed the FSM instructions.
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- #411
I drove from Colorado to LA after the install and did a 700 mile push and still have 5 gallons... so close to 800 miles all in!
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- #412
Not that i know of. Ive never seen them.
It is used here in the Middle East for the higher trim models. Kind of a PITA because you can't get all new and they get damaged when you remove them. I was unaware that they were not used in NA.
Dilspec
SILVER Star
Nice to see how far it has come. Great work.
- Thread starter
- #415
Revamped and cleaned up the dash and wiring. The Sony XAV-AX1000 head unit looks the most OEM and has carplay and a VOLUME DIAL! In order to make the double DIN work, i needed to move my Auber Ins. EGT and Boost gauge. We 3D printed a small plate to mount the gauges lower on the dash in place of the rear heater and security switches.
Wiring wise i deleted the entire security system. I rewired and cleaned up all of the gauges and the head unit. I also pre-wired for an amp and sub under the passenger seat.
I also installed a rear view camera and triggered it off of the reverse light. Works like a charm.
I repainted all of the black dash parts with SEM Color Coat in Satin Black. I couldn't be happier with all of the results.
Wiring wise i deleted the entire security system. I rewired and cleaned up all of the gauges and the head unit. I also pre-wired for an amp and sub under the passenger seat.
I also installed a rear view camera and triggered it off of the reverse light. Works like a charm.
I repainted all of the black dash parts with SEM Color Coat in Satin Black. I couldn't be happier with all of the results.
- Thread starter
- #416
I deleted the rear heater using the 3locked kit and added a subwoofer under the passenger seat. It rips. I have it set at the lowest volume and its plenty.
Looks slick Bryce!
- Thread starter
- #418
Had a bit of a brake-down on a recent trip!
This problem started awhile ago without me knowing it. We went camping about a month ago and who off-roading, my brake fluid level warning light started to flicker on. No problem. I had brake fluid to top up and I assumed that my pads were getting low. I saw no signs of a leak anywhere and didn't notice any soft of hindered brake performance. We made it home, no issue.
Cut to: 3 weeks later and I am heading home from another short camping trip. I am by myself and heading down a the mountain, taking some detours to search for more future camp spots. To my surprise, the brake fluid level warning light popped on again. There was no way the pads are fading this fast. I now know there is a leak somewhere... but I couldn't find one anywhere. hmmmm.
Now knowing something isn't right, i took it easy and tested the brakes by pushing as hard as i could when i was in a safe spot in case they did fail. Eventually... they failed. Pedal to the floor and nothing! I was able to engine brake and use the parking brake to come to a stop next to an abandoned motel.
What i ended up finding was that the intercooler piping was resting on the brake lines that attach to the bracket near the power steering box. Over time, the stress has cracked, and eventually, completely sheered the line. The line that broke went to the drivers front brake.
I was lucky to find an m10 x 1 plug in my intercooler piping (where a temp gauge could go) so that i could plug the brake at the 'T' under the master cylinder. I then JB welded a brake fitting shut to replace the fitting i borrowed from the intercooler. I was able to limp it home 4 more hours with this fix.
Once home, I bought the tools and supplies to make my own custom brake lines. I felt I could shorten some runs and simplify things a bit... so i did. I used TIG rod to mock up and design a line before bending the Copper Nickel line. Everything is working great now, but I am planing to upgrade the Booster, master, and front brakes with Powerbrakes. Stay Tuned!
This problem started awhile ago without me knowing it. We went camping about a month ago and who off-roading, my brake fluid level warning light started to flicker on. No problem. I had brake fluid to top up and I assumed that my pads were getting low. I saw no signs of a leak anywhere and didn't notice any soft of hindered brake performance. We made it home, no issue.
Cut to: 3 weeks later and I am heading home from another short camping trip. I am by myself and heading down a the mountain, taking some detours to search for more future camp spots. To my surprise, the brake fluid level warning light popped on again. There was no way the pads are fading this fast. I now know there is a leak somewhere... but I couldn't find one anywhere. hmmmm.
Now knowing something isn't right, i took it easy and tested the brakes by pushing as hard as i could when i was in a safe spot in case they did fail. Eventually... they failed. Pedal to the floor and nothing! I was able to engine brake and use the parking brake to come to a stop next to an abandoned motel.
What i ended up finding was that the intercooler piping was resting on the brake lines that attach to the bracket near the power steering box. Over time, the stress has cracked, and eventually, completely sheered the line. The line that broke went to the drivers front brake.
I was lucky to find an m10 x 1 plug in my intercooler piping (where a temp gauge could go) so that i could plug the brake at the 'T' under the master cylinder. I then JB welded a brake fitting shut to replace the fitting i borrowed from the intercooler. I was able to limp it home 4 more hours with this fix.
Once home, I bought the tools and supplies to make my own custom brake lines. I felt I could shorten some runs and simplify things a bit... so i did. I used TIG rod to mock up and design a line before bending the Copper Nickel line. Everything is working great now, but I am planing to upgrade the Booster, master, and front brakes with Powerbrakes. Stay Tuned!
adventure is necessary!!
Forgive my ignorance but I thought that the dual circuit brake master cylinder would prevent the catastrophic failure in both the front and the rear and a failure like you described. What am I missing? This is near and dear to me because @cruisermatt is just finishing fairly extensive brake work on our 93.
