Alternative Drum Brake Cylinders (1 Viewer)

[AYM707]

I've got a 1983 FJ45 - GCC Specifications

I need to quickly change my drum brakes cylinder, quickly (got only 7 days before my temp plate expires).

Are the drum cylinders inter-changeable; maybe with other Toyota / US models? I've ordered replacements cylinders from parts souq but it will not be here in time. Debating if I should try the local market...thinking it would be a waste of time / energy.

Alternative part numbers would be great. Thanks

 

[45Dougal]

Because it doesn't work or because it leaks?
Clean it up and pack some shop towel around it to stop it dripping for 30 mins?
Try to find a seal kit?

 

[AYM707]

Because it doesn't work or because it leaks?
Clean it up and pack some shop towel around it to stop it dripping for 30 mins?
Try to find a seal kit?

Apparently they were leaking when he removed the rubber boot. I never saw any leaks on the floor so it maybe minor. In fact, I was happy with my brakes...but I think the mechanic wanted me to contribute to his retirement fund. Problem is that he's the vehicle inspector in order to get plates.

To be fair, they looked like they have never been changed. I did manage to source brake cylinders from a local Toyota Canadian vendor. Just hoping will get it in time.

I've seen some videos on replacing the drum brakes; it does not seem hard / complicated; but I think I'm going to let him do it. He needs to earn the retirement fund.

 

[45Dougal]

Maybe weeping slightly, hardly a big deal yet but good to get them done.
Since you can demonstrate that the parts are ordered, and you have booked it in for him to change them, maybe he'll just sign it off? If you don't ask you don't get. Unless he's a jobsworth in which case maybe should go elsewhere

 

[pb4ugo]

Looking under the dust boot is a proper brake inspection.

 

[AYM707]

After seeing several youtube video's; I decided to change the drum brake cylinders myself. For the record, for a 1983 FJ45; the bore size for the cylinder is 1 1/8" [28.57 mm].

After a heavy dose of brake cleaner fluid; changing the cylinders was easy.

then I tightened / re-adjusted the spindle for the brakes. The wheel does about 1 rotation before stopping. Took it for a test drive and applied the brakes, both in forward and reverse. But it felt the same...as if there are no brakes. So I thought maybe there was air in the system and it had to be bleeded.

Started the process, and noticed my old brake fluid appeared very "milky" in colour.

The picture is not very clear, yet the bleed hose appears solid and the new fluid in the bottle is clear. I am using dot-3 brake fluid.

I am now thinking that I should flush the entire system; but am not sure if this would solve my problem of no brakes.

 

[45Dougal]

After seeing several youtube video's; I decided to change the drum brake cylinders myself. For the record, for a 1983 FJ45; the bore size for the cylinder is 1 1/8" [28.57 mm].

After a heavy dose of brake cleaner fluid; changing the cylinders was easy. View attachment 3445613
View attachment 3445612

then I tightened / re-adjusted the spindle for the brakes. The wheel does about 1 rotation before stopping. Took it for a test drive and applied the brakes, both in forward and reverse. But it felt the same...as if there are no brakes. So I thought maybe there was air in the system and it had to be bleeded.

Started the process, and noticed my old brake fluid appeared very "milky" in colour.
View attachment 3445615

The picture is not very clear, yet the bleed hose appears solid and the new fluid in the bottle is clear. I am using dot-3 brake fluid.

I am now thinking that I should flush the entire system; but am not sure if this would solve my problem of no brakes.

View attachment 3445614

1) You should change your fluid periodically because it sucks up water from the air and then becomes prone to brake fade - especially with drums. So yes, flush them all out with new fluid. And don't shake the bottle first!
2) probably need to readjust. They do need to be quite tight initially and yes maybe a bit of air in there still.

 

[peesalot]

Adjust the shoes to the drum with the wheels bolted on. Put a bottle like that at all 4 corners , with fluid over the hose end in bottle, open all 4, let gravity bleed, fill MC, let it go for awhile, keep refill MC. I like to clamp both soft lines and give MC a push to be sure the MC is proper, if it squishes down with both lines clamped its bad.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I use a Mighty-Vac (aka one man brake bleeder). It seems now they cut the threads for the nipples loose. I was getting air being sucked threw the loose fit. The anti seize compound wasn't thick enough to prevent this. Teflon tape worked once, then would let air in by the second or third cracking the nipple open. I ended up using aviation non drying Permatex that's like 60+ years old (still gooey) I got from dad - that worked.

Likely not an issue using pedal pressure or one of those pressure system that hook on the MC reservoir.

Are you sure the pistons in the wheel cylinders aren't frozen? With the drum half on the shoes, have someone press on the brake pedal - you should see the shoes move out. On my 72 the fronts are single acting so the shoe moves only at one end. The rears are double acting so the shoes move out at both ends.

I'd bet money if I squished my old rubber lines they would fail.

I also bought new nipple covers and the rubber plugs for the backing plate adjuster slots.