Dozer's Grey Ghost Gets a Vortec (FJ62/5.3L/4L60E)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hit the first good snag today. After waiting for a bunch of 3/8 to -6an compression fittings that I thought would fit on my Derale external cooler and my power steering low-pressure lines, I found out they won't. Was able to crimp the line on the low-pressure hose out of the ps box, and I ordered another Derale external trans cooler with female NPT inlets so I can use 1/2 NPT to -6an adapters on that. (That means I have a brand-new Derale 13504 trans cooler for sale!) The 4L60E hard lines are good with the 3/8 compression fittings, so at least we can use them on that.

The major problem now is the return line on the PS pump. It's fixed to the pump, so I can't take it off and have it crimped in a crimping machine the way I did the low-pressure hard line off the box. Anyone have any idea how to get a -6an male fitting on that thing? It appears to be a 10mm line as opposed to anything standard (definitely just larger than a 3/8 but not quite 1/2). @NCFJ, how do you get male -6an fittings on your PS pump return lines?

Here's a look at the PS return line with the -6an compression fitting on it.

View attachment 1281867


PSC probally makes a p/s pump that fits your engine...... I have one on my 5.7, and its comes from PSC with a/n fitting on the rear...for return...check out their web site. THere were a few different variations for the 5.7...I assume the same for the new style engines.
 
Congrats Man! Exciting times when it fires for the first time.

Keep us posted.


Cheers!

-Ed
Thanks guys! It was definitely an exciting day. I was picking up my a/c hoses from the hose shop around 5:45 expecting to do that work tonight, but when I got back to the shop the UPS guy had just delivered my hose splicer from Jags That Run. If you haven't seen one with the sight glass, bleeder, and steam vent, let me tell you it's one sweet piece of gear. Anyway, with that, we had everything we needed to close up the heating and cooling system and fill her up with coolant. With the rest of the fluids already in, we were able to start her up and let her run for a while.

Obviously, we resolved the fuel and power steering issues, and I didn't see a single leak in a good ten minutes of run time. We plugged a high-speed Snap-On diagnostic reader in and everything was tracking; the RPM were just under 700. Dakota got the tach interface going today and it was matching the computer pretty closely. Rest of the gauges were solid.

@JohnCapoccia was at least partly right about the Monte Carlo pedal; we didn't get any response from it. However, I wired it up based on the gouge I've read on Cam and others' threads about switching certain wires (the instructions from the Painless harness), but I'm wondering if that doesn't apply if trying to use it on a Gen III. Tomorrow I'm going to switch the wires back and see what happens, but I'm open to suggestions on a DBW pedal solution for a Gen III Vortec.

Tomorrow I expect to have the A/C complete, pedal sorted, and the crossmember finally done.

Oh, one last thing: the K&N CAI I got for it is a disaster. We're having to mod the hell out of the tube to make it fit and I'm ready to start over. Anyone have a CAI setup they love? My intake has to go on the passenger side behind the battery tray; I don't have time to put into modifying the original one right now a la @35inchoverdrive. Would love to hear a couple of recommendations; I would go back through all of the threads but we're putting in 10-12 hour days in the shop. Something that only just comes out of the throttle body before doing a hard bat-turn (like, 120 degree bat turn) back to the passenger side would be perfect.

More tomorrow!
 
Thanks guys! It was definitely an exciting day. I was picking up my a/c hoses from the hose shop around 5:45 expecting to do that work tonight, but when I got back to the shop the UPS guy had just delivered my hose splicer from Jags That Run. If you haven't seen one with the sight glass, bleeder, and steam vent, let me tell you it's one sweet piece of gear. Anyway, with that, we had everything we needed to close up the heating and cooling system and fill her up with coolant. With the rest of the fluids already in, we were able to start her up and let her run for a while.

Obviously, we resolved the fuel and power steering issues, and I didn't see a single leak in a good ten minutes of run time. We plugged a high-speed Snap-On diagnostic reader in and everything was tracking; the RPM were just under 700. Dakota got the tach interface going today and it was matching the computer pretty closely. Rest of the gauges were solid.

@JohnCapoccia was at least partly right about the Monte Carlo pedal; we didn't get any response from it. However, I wired it up based on the gouge I've read on Cam and others' threads about switching certain wires (the instructions from the Painless harness), but I'm wondering if that doesn't apply if trying to use it on a Gen III. Tomorrow I'm going to switch the wires back and see what happens, but I'm open to suggestions on a DBW pedal solution for a Gen III Vortec.

Tomorrow I expect to have the A/C complete, pedal sorted, and the crossmember finally done.

Oh, one last thing: the K&N CAI I got for it is a disaster. We're having to mod the hell out of the tube to make it fit and I'm ready to start over. Anyone have a CAI setup they love? My intake has to go on the passenger side behind the battery tray; I don't have time to put into modifying the original one right now a la @35inchoverdrive. Would love to hear a couple of recommendations; I would go back through all of the threads but we're putting in 10-12 hour days in the shop. Something that only just comes out of the throttle body before doing a hard bat-turn (like, 120 degree bat turn) back to the passenger side would be perfect.

More tomorrow!
I am using a
Spectre Performance 9900 Air Intake Kit with Red hpR Filter for GM Truck
from Amazon since I need a CARB approved unit. I found the need to trim the upper water neck and use a radiator hose with an immediate 90 degree bend. Since the intake was designed for the donor (05 Yukon) the mounts need some modification but still pretty sano and the filter ends up right by the passenger hood hinge.
I am traveling now but will try to get pictures postes soon.
David
 
I am using a
Spectre Performance 9900 Air Intake Kit with Red hpR Filter for GM Truck
from Amazon since I need a CARB approved unit. I found the need to trim the upper water neck and use a radiator hose with an immediate 90 degree bend. Since the intake was designed for the donor (05 Yukon) the mounts need some modification but still pretty sano and the filter ends up right by the passenger hood hinge.
I am traveling now but will try to get pictures postes soon.
David
Thanks for the quick reply, David. I'll look it up but would love to see the pics.

FWIW, I do intend to re-use the stock filter assembly at some point, but right now I need a 90% solution so I can get it back to Virginia.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, David. I'll look it up but would love to see the pics.

FWIW, I do intend to re-use the stock filter assembly at some point, but right now I need a 90% solution so I can get it back to Virginia.
Here you are.

IMG_2883.webp


IMG_2888.webp
 
@Dsellers is right: lots of respect to those that have done this. We've been both living this for 10+ hours a day since Sunday, and he laid all the groundwork before that - lots and lots of groundwork. I'm worn out, too, but the fact that I'm on a deadline keeps us going. Thanks to all who have helped us get to this point.

We had some small victories and minor setbacks today. The a/c hoses came back looking good, but the low pressure return line leaks at the compressor-side fitting. The pedal thing is still kicking our tail, but I think we'll have it licked tomorrow; I'll let y'all know.

Dakota did a sweet mod to the crossmember (inspired by @35inchoverdrive) and got it finished and bolted in today. I didn't get a chance to snap a pic before it went in but I'll get some when it's up on the lift next week.

Tested the transmission and it at least engages in both drive and reverse, so we have that going for us. If the pedal gets sorted tomorrow, it'll be time for a test drive. No leaks after significant idle time, so keeping fingers crossed. More to follow...
 
@JohnCapoccia was at least partly right about the Monte Carlo pedal; we didn't get any response from it. However, I wired it up based on the gouge I've read on Cam and others' threads about switching certain wires (the instructions from the Painless harness), but I'm wondering if that doesn't apply if trying to use it on a Gen III. Tomorrow I'm going to switch the wires back and see what happens, but I'm open to suggestions on a DBW pedal solution for a Gen III Vortec.

I couldn't find any solution other than using the Gen III pedal from the donor truck. It's steel, so you can cut, weld, drill, bend, whatever you need to make it fit. After a few unsuccessful attempts to get it positioned just right, I wound up cutting and bolting it together so I could make finer adjustments. Now it's perfect. It's pretty easy to attach to the firewall, you drill one hole to make it bolt right in to the existing location.
 
And finally, @Dsellers brainchild: a home for the ECU, TAC and fuses...

View attachment 1281223

And a shot of the whole bay at the end of the day:

View attachment 1281224

And, because I think they're so cool, the Lokar shifter (12"):

View attachment 1281225

Until tomorrow...

Was looking through your thread and saw you have the same Howell fuse block that I do. You may want to consider adding a cover to protect it from moisture.

image.webp

image.webp


My setup is very similar to yours. I added a $9 exterior GFI outlet cover to mine from Home Depot. It works and looks great. Nobody ever realizes it's not some groovy aftermarket automotive part.

Cheers!

-Ed
 
Was looking through your thread and saw you have the same Howell fuse block that I do. You may want to consider adding a cover to protect it from moisture.

View attachment 1283647
View attachment 1283648

My setup is very similar to yours. I added a $9 exterior GFI outlet cover to mine from Home Depot. It works and looks great. Nobody ever realizes it's not some groovy aftermarket automotive part.

Cheers!

-Ed
Love it! Thanks for the tip!
 
I couldn't find any solution other than using the Gen III pedal from the donor truck. It's steel, so you can cut, weld, drill, bend, whatever you need to make it fit. After a few unsuccessful attempts to get it positioned just right, I wound up cutting and bolting it together so I could make finer adjustments. Now it's perfect. It's pretty easy to attach to the firewall, you drill one hole to make it bolt right in to the existing location.
Thanks John. The issue is that the pedals changed pretty much each year from '03 to '06 (roughly); not just the pedal itself but the plug that goes in it. In '05 there was a 9-pin harness; in '06 a 6-pin; in '07 (which had Gen III and Gen IV) a flat 6-pin like the Monte Carlo pedal. The pedal from my '06 donor truck is unusable in the LC. Talking privately with @MANUCHAO I think we have it sorted; he has the same TAC module from the same engine as I do but uses the 9-pin harness to the '05 pedal. I have both of those coming in today along with an '05 TAC module that matches the pedal just in case. I talked to the guys at Howell who made my harness and they're confident that a different TAC module, if necessary, will play nice with my ECU. Either way, I should be able to report back in a couple of hours...
 
Woo hoo!!! :bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2:

Not only did we get the pedal sorted, but got the first test drive knocked out! I gave my brother the honors...



The pedal turned out to be an easy fix once we figured it out. The TAC module, jumper, and pedal from an '05 Silverado all worked perfectly. We had to cut and weld the pedal since it naturally offset to the right, but we gave it a very slight left offset and it's near perfect now.

With that plugged in and mounted, she was ready to roll. The Lokar shifter worked as advertised, and the transmission hit all of its shift points up to third (we couldn't get it fast enough on the road in front of the shop to hit fourth).

A/C got charged up and was blowing cold, though we do have to hotwire one of the electric fans to come on with the compressor.

Here's the laundry list that remains (in no particular order):

1) Bleed/fill PS system
2) Bleed/refill brake fluid
3) Install Lokar LED Indicator bezel and sensor
4) Figure out oil pressure and water temp indicators
5) Fix horns (installed new Hella horns but they aren't getting a signal)
6) Install cover for fuse block (thanks @cruiser enthuiser!)
7) Re-install center console
8) Install rear suspension
9) Install steering stabilizer
10) Front-end alignment
11) Install front driveshaft
12) Check T-case/4WD engagement
13) Install rear seat belts (lap/shoulder belts ordered from Seat Belt Planet)

After I do a cost analysis I'm going to see if I can still put on new shoes (33" BFG A/T KO2s) and install a new head unit.

Feeling good! We might make that deadline after all...
 
Great to hear you guys got it all sorted out....!!!
 
Very cool guys! Wait till the first time you jump on it while rolling and it torque steers half into the next lane. :) The swap is a game changer for sure.
 
Very cool guys! Wait till the first time you jump on it while rolling and it torque steers half into the next lane. :) The swap is a game changer for sure.
Can't wait! Hoping to get the exhaust on Wednesday.

I've heard a lot of guys talk about the Walker SS Quietflow mufflers; can anybody offer a specific opinion or even a model number that works well with the Vortec/FJ combo? I intend to keep it simple, using the original cats to a Y-pipe and a single muffler.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom