Wow.. how much were you hauling to only get 12.7mpg? I always thought that newer vortec would get closer to 16mpg even at 75mph?
Dozer's Grey Ghost Gets a Vortec (FJ62/5.3L/4L60E)
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- #142
We haul a LOT of gear, but that pic was taken on I-81 in Virginia which is a roller coaster; I don't think there's a single stretch of flat road on it, so I was probably going slightly uphill.
That said, think about it: I was doing 77 in a loaded FJ62 at 2400rpm to begin with, getting double digit MPG in the process. I could have never done that in the 3FE, so I'll take it all day long. I don't think anyone really expects to swap in a Vortec and get 16-18 on the highway with a loaded Cruiser; some might, but everyone's circumstances are different. I'm also running 33's on a 3" lift, so my gearing is less than desirable for high-speed highway mileage.
What I'm getting at is that the Vortec swap is a worthy upgrade no matter what!
You probably have done this already, but check your ScanGaugeII set up... it will give you wrong info if not set up properly....
Unless you have cruise control it's hard to gauge with total accuracy the MPG.
With that said my MPG on the last trip was between 14-16 mpg...but I concur on a hilly hwy it's anybody's guesstimate what mpg would be...
Unless you have cruise control it's hard to gauge with total accuracy the MPG.
With that said my MPG on the last trip was between 14-16 mpg...but I concur on a hilly hwy it's anybody's guesstimate what mpg would be...
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- #144
As Austin Powers famously said: I also like to live dangerously. On this last tank of gas I stretched it home from the lake and the ScanGauge says I used 23.2 gallons from that tank (out of 24) and drove 289 miles. It gave me a combined MPG of 12.4, which included a little bit of city driving (maybe 10% of that tank), about 120 miles of I-95 (though lots of stop-and-go as is typical of 95 in NoVa), and the rest on two-lane back roads in central VA. Said I averaged 34MPH on that tank as well.
I recall setting my ScanGauge up and calibrating it, so I think it's telling the truth. A combined 12.5 ain't bad, and again, it's still an improvement over the 3FE. I didn't swap it in for vastly improved gas mileage, though the increased range of 50-60 miles per tank is a bonus; for me, it was more about power and serviceability. I got both of those plus added effiiciency = win!
Ok I must have had a misconception somewhere that most averaged about 16-18mpg with the newer LS setups. While I completely understand that most don't swap for the extra gas mileage, more for the power and useability of the engine, I just was surprised to see what I would consider low for a swap. Again my misconception, but that was part of why I was asking how much you were loaded. My truck is a daily driver and on a NORMAL week (whats that?!) I do about 60% of the tank city and then 40% on the highway (70ish mile round trip once a week for softball night). My average with my 2f keeping it about 65 on the highway and then normal city driving is currently at 9.8mpg. So even your 12.7 would be a 3mpg upgrade for me, not to mention the power/torque/etc. And I am still running the stock h42 so if I upgraded to an auto (BLASPHEMY!) or whatever 5spd I might eeeek out a little more.
If you drive 55 or less on the highway, you could probably get the 16-18 (maybe even more).
On long trips, I keep the gas pedal mashed and get 13-ish with a minimum speed of 80.
Huh... ok I guess I dont know where I got the misconception that they did closer to 16mpg+...... Color me confused.
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- #148
So, after putting a few miles on the truck I started to wonder about the wisdom of running 33x12.5s on the factory 6.5" rims (a concern that was raised earlier in this thread). I also wondered if wider rims might improve the handling a little bit. I decided to bite the bullet back in the spring and put new Level 8 Tracker wheels all around, while keeping the new 12.5" BFG A/T KO2s (including a spare wedged in the factory location under the gas tank). I definitely prefer the slightly wider stance, although purists will scoff.
Before:
After:
I couldn't really tell if the handling improved much, but I like to think it did. Regardless, it gave me more peace of mind with the 8" rims. The Level 8s fit perfectly by the way, with no rubbing whatsoever.
More importantly, my original wheels went to a good home in Hawaii with @Aloha Jen.
Before:
After:
I couldn't really tell if the handling improved much, but I like to think it did. Regardless, it gave me more peace of mind with the 8" rims. The Level 8s fit perfectly by the way, with no rubbing whatsoever.
More importantly, my original wheels went to a good home in Hawaii with @Aloha Jen.
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- #150
The spring saw a ramp-up in upgrades and mods for 2017. I bought Man-a-Fre's sway-bar extension kit to complement the OME lift, and got the rear extensions on shortly after putting on the new shoes.
It was a few months later (in June) before I got the front extensions in, and of course I forgot to take a picture. However, you can see them in the rear of this pic. In the foreground you can see the billet spacers I had made to extend the bump stops.
The sway bar extensions are definitely nice, and the fronts are especially beefy. Good upgrade, IMO.
It was a few months later (in June) before I got the front extensions in, and of course I forgot to take a picture. However, you can see them in the rear of this pic. In the foreground you can see the billet spacers I had made to extend the bump stops.
The sway bar extensions are definitely nice, and the fronts are especially beefy. Good upgrade, IMO.
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- #151
For months I had been designing a custom cargo box for the rear, where I could put in a fridge, a camp kitchen, some storage, and a sleeping platform. I was able to get it all, but it took about three months to complete (working when me and a buddy had time) and about $700 in materials (slides, especially heavy duty locking slides, are NOT cheap). Started in late March, finished in early June.
The box has a locking slide for the ARB; a nested tool drawer with a magnetized floor (so wrenches don't slide around) and a work surface; a deep storage drawer with dividers; a camp kitchen drawer (with sub-drawers and a cabinet) that houses a Camp Chef two-burner stove, knives (on a magnetized block), cooking utensils, a spice rack, and a cabinet (where I store my propane hose and my "coffee bar"; a Boos Block cutting board nested under the stove on push-to-open slides; a hidden parts drawer in the back of the box (accessible with the back seat down); and a sleeping platform.
The ARB is hard-wired to the Yellow Top with the ARB battery cable kit and held down to the slide with the ARB tie-down kit, and it has the remote monitor installed under the dash. Very, very happy with this refrigerator and the overall setup. While the box ran me $700 in parts, we had a blast making it and I figure I saved $1200-$1500 over what a comparable commercial model would have cost.
A link to the comprehensive box build thread here, and a few pics below: FJ62 DIY Cargo Box
The box has a locking slide for the ARB; a nested tool drawer with a magnetized floor (so wrenches don't slide around) and a work surface; a deep storage drawer with dividers; a camp kitchen drawer (with sub-drawers and a cabinet) that houses a Camp Chef two-burner stove, knives (on a magnetized block), cooking utensils, a spice rack, and a cabinet (where I store my propane hose and my "coffee bar"; a Boos Block cutting board nested under the stove on push-to-open slides; a hidden parts drawer in the back of the box (accessible with the back seat down); and a sleeping platform.
The ARB is hard-wired to the Yellow Top with the ARB battery cable kit and held down to the slide with the ARB tie-down kit, and it has the remote monitor installed under the dash. Very, very happy with this refrigerator and the overall setup. While the box ran me $700 in parts, we had a blast making it and I figure I saved $1200-$1500 over what a comparable commercial model would have cost.
A link to the comprehensive box build thread here, and a few pics below: FJ62 DIY Cargo Box
Nice build - thanks for the link to the details! This is next on my list of things...
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- #153
As the Spring wore on, it became time to do something about that a/c compressor. I ordered up an OEM (for GM, not Toyota) compressor that turned out to be a super-easy bolt-on install to the Vortec. While I was at it, I replaced the dryer with an OEM (Denso) Toyota dryer and, of course, new belt and all-new o-rings. You may recall that with the Vortec swap, all of the a/c components - dryer, condenser, evaporator - remain Toyota parts running off the Chevy compressor. The hoses were custom made with Chevy fittings on one end and Toyota on the other.
At Fort Belvoir there is an awesome auto skills shop (about 13 lifts and all the tools you could ever need) that also does service to include a/c service. I took it there to charge up the a/c and while I was there used a steering wheel puller to replace the horn pin. I couldn't believe the difference between the original pin and an OEM Toyota replacement:
I had installed Hella Supertone twin horns when doing the swap, but they never worked because the pin was filed down so much over time. Now, the horns work like a champ.
A/C came out great as well and was put through the test this summer. Cold a/c like it should be!
At Fort Belvoir there is an awesome auto skills shop (about 13 lifts and all the tools you could ever need) that also does service to include a/c service. I took it there to charge up the a/c and while I was there used a steering wheel puller to replace the horn pin. I couldn't believe the difference between the original pin and an OEM Toyota replacement:
I had installed Hella Supertone twin horns when doing the swap, but they never worked because the pin was filed down so much over time. Now, the horns work like a champ.
A/C came out great as well and was put through the test this summer. Cold a/c like it should be!
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- #154
One of the things we did immediately post-swap was "upgrade" the headlights using sealed-beam Warner lights from Rock Auto. I couldn't tell a difference, and driving at night was borderline dangerous. Kept watching threads on here about headlight upgrades, and managed to snag a badass headlight harness upgrade from fellow mudder Erik, who had done hundreds of these harnesses as WiredWagon. Unfortunately, I got one of the last ones, as he decided to stop making them shortly after. I could've sworn I took a pic of it before installing it, but I can't find it anywhere. It was exceptionally built, and I coiled up the loom, zip-tied it, mounted the box to a factory hole under the hood, and put it all where my future second battery will go:
While I was at it, I upgraded all the lights to Hella H4/H1s, and combined with the harness it was an incredible night and day difference. The weekend after the install we were driving to our campsite in West Virginia's Monongahela Nat'l Forest after dark on some serious Deliverance-style backroads, and the lights paid for themselves in one night. You would've thought I had an LED light bar.
Here's a pic of one side of the new housings/bulbs:
They really do make a difference and since Erik is no longer making these harnesses I recommend getting one from IPF. It's worth every penny.
DISCLAIMER: the Hellas are not technically legal in VA (and many other states) as they aren't DOT approved. Doesn't stop a lot of folks from upgrading to them, as they truly are better and safer. I kept my old sealed beams - which the harness plays well with (I tested) - for the state inspection.
While I was at it, I upgraded all the lights to Hella H4/H1s, and combined with the harness it was an incredible night and day difference. The weekend after the install we were driving to our campsite in West Virginia's Monongahela Nat'l Forest after dark on some serious Deliverance-style backroads, and the lights paid for themselves in one night. You would've thought I had an LED light bar.
Here's a pic of one side of the new housings/bulbs:
They really do make a difference and since Erik is no longer making these harnesses I recommend getting one from IPF. It's worth every penny.
DISCLAIMER: the Hellas are not technically legal in VA (and many other states) as they aren't DOT approved. Doesn't stop a lot of folks from upgrading to them, as they truly are better and safer. I kept my old sealed beams - which the harness plays well with (I tested) - for the state inspection.
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- #155
Speaking of WV, I highly recommend the Big Bend Campground in Monongahela Nat'l Forest. Nicely flowing river wraps all the way around it. Great fishing, good tubing in season. Beautiful area.
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- #156
So, with us hitting the road to various campgrounds most weekends and an impending road trip from northern VA to southeast GA, it was time to start upgrading the interior. More comfort and quiet were needed. I installed some interior LEDs for the cargo and cabin dome lights from Odd Iron Offroad, only to find that the wiring to my cabin light has a disconnect somewhere. However, the cargo light burns quite bright and was a very worthy upgrade.
Back in March or April I had scored a pair of light grey power front seats from a 2005 BMW 325i in great condition. They were near family in NW GA, so had them picked up and drove to my Mom's with Torfab BMW seat brackets in hand. My brother and I swapped the seats out before continuing on my road trip:
The seats are wired to hot power so the power adjustments work all the time. As everyone has noted, it's a fantastic upgrade. I followed @jawjatek's lead and got all the fasteners from McMaster-Carr; not cheap, but worth if for peace of mind.
Back in March or April I had scored a pair of light grey power front seats from a 2005 BMW 325i in great condition. They were near family in NW GA, so had them picked up and drove to my Mom's with Torfab BMW seat brackets in hand. My brother and I swapped the seats out before continuing on my road trip:
The seats are wired to hot power so the power adjustments work all the time. As everyone has noted, it's a fantastic upgrade. I followed @jawjatek's lead and got all the fasteners from McMaster-Carr; not cheap, but worth if for peace of mind.
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- #157
Once I got it back to our shop in Brunswick, the seats came right back out, along with all of the carpet and everything bolted to the floor in the cabin:
After cleaning up the floor, I covered it in Dynamat:
To help with the road noise, I installed a new set of Trail Tailor door seals on the front door. These are well-made and awesome, and I can't wait to get some for the rear doors and liftgate.
After cleaning up the floor, I covered it in Dynamat:
To help with the road noise, I installed a new set of Trail Tailor door seals on the front door. These are well-made and awesome, and I can't wait to get some for the rear doors and liftgate.
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- #158
We did a lot more while the carpet was out, and it's killing me that we worked so fast I forgot to take pictures! 
In another "while I'm in here" moment, I decided to do more upgrades to the audio, and also installed a grey Tuffy Deluxe locking center console.
For the audio, I installed a brand new Rockford Fosgate 300W four channel amp and a Kenwood powered subwoofer. Upgraded the wiring to the Kicker speakers as well and used RCA cables for all channels. Direct power from the battery using a Boss heavy gauge cable kit. My brother loomed it all up real nice before we cleaned the carpet and put it back in.
To put in the Tuffy I took out the rear heater (kept it, as it worked fine, but didn't really need it). The Tuffy is super nice, has tons of space, and actually gives me a usable arm rest at the right height. I'm sorry I took so long to put it in!
Here's the only shot I was able to get of the Tuffy while @Dsellers wires up the power seats:
In another "while I'm in here" moment, I decided to do more upgrades to the audio, and also installed a grey Tuffy Deluxe locking center console.
For the audio, I installed a brand new Rockford Fosgate 300W four channel amp and a Kenwood powered subwoofer. Upgraded the wiring to the Kicker speakers as well and used RCA cables for all channels. Direct power from the battery using a Boss heavy gauge cable kit. My brother loomed it all up real nice before we cleaned the carpet and put it back in.
To put in the Tuffy I took out the rear heater (kept it, as it worked fine, but didn't really need it). The Tuffy is super nice, has tons of space, and actually gives me a usable arm rest at the right height. I'm sorry I took so long to put it in!
Here's the only shot I was able to get of the Tuffy while @Dsellers wires up the power seats:
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- #159
One big lesson learned from the Vortec swap was that the stock aluminum oil pan was not going to work with our particular fitment. This took some time to figure out; over time, one corner of that pan was smacking on the pinion and it developed a hairline crack that ultimately required replacing the oil pan. After consulting with the forum, we replaced it with the GM "hot rod" oil pan, part #19212593. The parameters of this pan were much more suited to my application (as it has been to many others), and I haven't had an issue in the two months since replacing it. To help protect it, I went to a local fabricator and had some 1" billet spacers made for my bumpstops:
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- #160
Some people like me learned the hard way after installing a lift that the FJ62 has a Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) the activates the rear brakes in proportion to the load being carried. When the truck is lifted, it interprets it as a (very) light load and may not send any stopping power to the rear. When installing a lift, the LSPV should be raised in proportion to the amount of life. If you're like me and had really sagging springs and then upgrade to 33s when installing that OME 2-3" lift, you may want to raise the LSPV even more.
When I had my bump stop extensions fabricated I had them make me two 1" spacers to raise the LSPV, then I adjusted it to the tallest possible height. Pic here:
It has made a nominal difference; since we rebuilt the rear drums last summer after putting the lift on, they need to be adjusted again now that the spacer is in place. That's on the list for the next trip to the Belvoir auto hobby shop when I can get it on a lift.
When I had my bump stop extensions fabricated I had them make me two 1" spacers to raise the LSPV, then I adjusted it to the tallest possible height. Pic here:
It has made a nominal difference; since we rebuilt the rear drums last summer after putting the lift on, they need to be adjusted again now that the spacer is in place. That's on the list for the next trip to the Belvoir auto hobby shop when I can get it on a lift.