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Hit the first good snag today. After waiting for a bunch of 3/8 to -6an compression fittings that I thought would fit on my Derale external cooler and my power steering low-pressure lines, I found out they won't. Was able to crimp the line on the low-pressure hose out of the ps box, and I ordered another Derale external trans cooler with female NPT inlets so I can use 1/2 NPT to -6an adapters on that. (That means I have a brand-new Derale 13504 trans cooler for sale!) The 4L60E hard lines are good with the 3/8 compression fittings, so at least we can use them on that.
The major problem now is the return line on the PS pump. It's fixed to the pump, so I can't take it off and have it crimped in a crimping machine the way I did the low-pressure hard line off the box. Anyone have any idea how to get a -6an male fitting on that thing? It appears to be a 10mm line as opposed to anything standard (definitely just larger than a 3/8 but not quite 1/2). @NCFJ, how do you get male -6an fittings on your PS pump return lines?
Here's a look at the PS return line with the -6an compression fitting on it.
View attachment 1281867
We made fire!!!
Thanks guys! It was definitely an exciting day. I was picking up my a/c hoses from the hose shop around 5:45 expecting to do that work tonight, but when I got back to the shop the UPS guy had just delivered my hose splicer from Jags That Run. If you haven't seen one with the sight glass, bleeder, and steam vent, let me tell you it's one sweet piece of gear. Anyway, with that, we had everything we needed to close up the heating and cooling system and fill her up with coolant. With the rest of the fluids already in, we were able to start her up and let her run for a while.Congrats Man! Exciting times when it fires for the first time.
Keep us posted.
Cheers!
-Ed
I am using aThanks guys! It was definitely an exciting day. I was picking up my a/c hoses from the hose shop around 5:45 expecting to do that work tonight, but when I got back to the shop the UPS guy had just delivered my hose splicer from Jags That Run. If you haven't seen one with the sight glass, bleeder, and steam vent, let me tell you it's one sweet piece of gear. Anyway, with that, we had everything we needed to close up the heating and cooling system and fill her up with coolant. With the rest of the fluids already in, we were able to start her up and let her run for a while.
Obviously, we resolved the fuel and power steering issues, and I didn't see a single leak in a good ten minutes of run time. We plugged a high-speed Snap-On diagnostic reader in and everything was tracking; the RPM were just under 700. Dakota got the tach interface going today and it was matching the computer pretty closely. Rest of the gauges were solid.
@JohnCapoccia was at least partly right about the Monte Carlo pedal; we didn't get any response from it. However, I wired it up based on the gouge I've read on Cam and others' threads about switching certain wires (the instructions from the Painless harness), but I'm wondering if that doesn't apply if trying to use it on a Gen III. Tomorrow I'm going to switch the wires back and see what happens, but I'm open to suggestions on a DBW pedal solution for a Gen III Vortec.
Tomorrow I expect to have the A/C complete, pedal sorted, and the crossmember finally done.
Oh, one last thing: the K&N CAI I got for it is a disaster. We're having to mod the hell out of the tube to make it fit and I'm ready to start over. Anyone have a CAI setup they love? My intake has to go on the passenger side behind the battery tray; I don't have time to put into modifying the original one right now a la @35inchoverdrive. Would love to hear a couple of recommendations; I would go back through all of the threads but we're putting in 10-12 hour days in the shop. Something that only just comes out of the throttle body before doing a hard bat-turn (like, 120 degree bat turn) back to the passenger side would be perfect.
More tomorrow!
Thanks for the quick reply, David. I'll look it up but would love to see the pics.I am using a
Spectre Performance 9900 Air Intake Kit with Red hpR Filter for GM Truck
from Amazon since I need a CARB approved unit. I found the need to trim the upper water neck and use a radiator hose with an immediate 90 degree bend. Since the intake was designed for the donor (05 Yukon) the mounts need some modification but still pretty sano and the filter ends up right by the passenger hood hinge.
I am traveling now but will try to get pictures postes soon.
David
Here you are.Thanks for the quick reply, David. I'll look it up but would love to see the pics.
FWIW, I do intend to re-use the stock filter assembly at some point, but right now I need a 90% solution so I can get it back to Virginia.
After the first drive the pain is forgotten, the Cruiser runs like it should have from the factory.I would have never realized what it takes to get to this point. I have mad respect for those who have already done this. I am beyond worn out.
@JohnCapoccia was at least partly right about the Monte Carlo pedal; we didn't get any response from it. However, I wired it up based on the gouge I've read on Cam and others' threads about switching certain wires (the instructions from the Painless harness), but I'm wondering if that doesn't apply if trying to use it on a Gen III. Tomorrow I'm going to switch the wires back and see what happens, but I'm open to suggestions on a DBW pedal solution for a Gen III Vortec.
And finally, @Dsellers brainchild: a home for the ECU, TAC and fuses...
View attachment 1281223
And a shot of the whole bay at the end of the day:
View attachment 1281224
And, because I think they're so cool, the Lokar shifter (12"):
View attachment 1281225
Until tomorrow...
Love it! Thanks for the tip!Was looking through your thread and saw you have the same Howell fuse block that I do. You may want to consider adding a cover to protect it from moisture.
View attachment 1283647
View attachment 1283648
My setup is very similar to yours. I added a $9 exterior GFI outlet cover to mine from Home Depot. It works and looks great. Nobody ever realizes it's not some groovy aftermarket automotive part.
Cheers!
-Ed
Thanks John. The issue is that the pedals changed pretty much each year from '03 to '06 (roughly); not just the pedal itself but the plug that goes in it. In '05 there was a 9-pin harness; in '06 a 6-pin; in '07 (which had Gen III and Gen IV) a flat 6-pin like the Monte Carlo pedal. The pedal from my '06 donor truck is unusable in the LC. Talking privately with @MANUCHAO I think we have it sorted; he has the same TAC module from the same engine as I do but uses the 9-pin harness to the '05 pedal. I have both of those coming in today along with an '05 TAC module that matches the pedal just in case. I talked to the guys at Howell who made my harness and they're confident that a different TAC module, if necessary, will play nice with my ECU. Either way, I should be able to report back in a couple of hours...I couldn't find any solution other than using the Gen III pedal from the donor truck. It's steel, so you can cut, weld, drill, bend, whatever you need to make it fit. After a few unsuccessful attempts to get it positioned just right, I wound up cutting and bolting it together so I could make finer adjustments. Now it's perfect. It's pretty easy to attach to the firewall, you drill one hole to make it bolt right in to the existing location.
Can't wait! Hoping to get the exhaust on Wednesday.Very cool guys! Wait till the first time you jump on it while rolling and it torque steers half into the next lane.The swap is a game changer for sure.