Dozer's Grey Ghost Gets a Vortec (FJ62/5.3L/4L60E)

[JohnCapoccia]

Well, this was one of those unplanned purchases but just got a pair of Hooker exhaust manifolds (8501-HKR) for the Ghost. Thanks to @35inchoverdrive for the inspiration. Keeping fingers crossed that I won't need the H3 pan, since I still have to source the cooling system, exhaust, a new tach, and a few other odds and ends. I get back in late June so clock is ticking...

Many are using the stock radiator, but you need to move the outake tube so that it doesn't interfere with the fan. I swapped locations between the filler and intake, but that is optional, and reduced the intake to 1-1/4. Cost was $150.

I'm using the DakotaDigtal tach adapter, I had to fool with it a bit, but the stock tack is now pretty accurate. The problem is that the vortec redline is beyond the range of the stock tach, but I don't care. I don't anticipate hitting that redline too often, if ever. The advantage is that it's pretty cheap, easy to install and you get to keep the stock look.

 

[Dozer18]

Many are using the stock radiator, but you need to move the outake tube so that it doesn't interfere with the fan. I swapped locations between the filler and intake, but that is optional, and reduced the intake to 1-1/4. Cost was $150.

I'm using the DakotaDigtal tach adapter, I had to fool with it a bit, but the stock tack is now pretty accurate. The problem is that the vortec redline is beyond the range of the stock tach, but I don't care. I don't anticipate hitting that redline too often, if ever. The advantage is that it's pretty cheap, easy to install and you get to keep the stock look.

Thanks, John. I like your idea about the DakotaDigital adapter for now. I'm going to be bumping up against both of my budgets of time and money; we're trying to get to the 80% solution by early July and I will spend the next few years chasing 100%.

For the cooling system, I'm planning on using a Derale dual electric fan unit so I won't have any trouble with the hoses interfering with a mech fan. My stock radiator is nearly shot, so going to have to buy an aftermarket replacement that I can mate with the Derale. I'm budgeting about $800 for that whole setup including hoses and hardware.

BTW, I still owe you an answer to your PM; will respond directly.

 

[JohnCapoccia]

Thanks, John. I like your idea about the DakotaDigital adapter for now. I'm going to be bumping up against both of my budgets of time and money; we're trying to get to the 80% solution by early July and I will spend the next few years chasing 100%.

For the cooling system, I'm planning on using a Derale dual electric fan unit so I won't have any trouble with the hoses interfering with a mech fan. My stock radiator is nearly shot, so going to have to buy an aftermarket replacement that I can mate with the Derale. I'm budgeting about $800 for that whole setup including hoses and hardware.

BTW, I still owe you an answer to your PM; will respond directly.

Cool. I've had great experiences with electric fans on a couple of BMW projects. I was pretty close to going that direction with the cruiser except that my son was able to design the shroud, which worked out very well for me. Had I not had that option available I probably would have gone with electric fans. There's a reason why mechanical fans are becoming rare on new cars...

 

[Dozer18]

Hi all - progress has been a bit slow lately due to heavy work load at the shop but it's about to pick up quickly. I'm headed back to the States in a couple of weeks and will devote a solid week to wrenching full time with my brother. The drivetrain should be set, fuel system done, harness connected, Lokar shifter installed, and all the remaining parts ordered and ready to go by the time I get there.

Couple of questions for y'all:

1) anyone else have any experience with the crossmember shown on page 41 of @FJ60Cam's thread that @gwalt584 was looking to use? It's an unadvertised one by TLC 4x4 that they may or may not still have in stock. We are still trying to sort the crossbar setup.

2) Tach question: trying to decide whether to use a Dakota Digital tach interface - either ODB (STA-1000) or non-ODB (SGI-8E) - or just replace the tach altogether (Autometer Auto Gage). The driving force here is simplicity and time - we have a lot to do in a short amount of time and I have to go with the 90% solution for now. If anyone is using the Autometer Auto gage 2306 tach, the only ones I can find are pedestal mounts; how did you get it in the dash? Does it come out of the housing?

Many more posts, pics, and questions coming as this ramps back up. Thanks in advance!

 

[Dozer18]

One more thing: we decided to go with a CSF 2708 radiator mated to a Derale Powerpack with dual electric fans (16831). My engine is an L59 out of an '06 Tahoe so it was on an electric fan setup anyway. Going to run a Derale transmission cooler in line with the radiator's integrated cooler as well. Excited to order that up this weekend and check off one more block!

 

[richxd87]

@bdyer12 used these in his build.

I purchased the tlc products as well but have not installed then. Here are some pics of the cross member and motor mounts.

 

[Dozer18]

Thanks @richxd87! That's a big help; I had not seen @bdyer12's thread before, either. That crossbar looked really good on his. How long ago did you buy that from TLC? It's not listed on their website but going to call them tomorrow and see if they have any left.

 

[richxd87]

I got it maybe a month ago. I also picked up their fan shroud but seems you won't be needing that.
Do you have plans for the motor mounts? I would consider theirs as well since it is keyed to a bolt hole on the frame and takes out any guess work out. It also uses the stock gm style rubber isolator which I've read works well.

I spoke with Seth in the parts dept btw.

 

[JohnCapoccia]

2) Tach question: trying to decide whether to use a Dakota Digital tach interface - either ODB (STA-1000) or non-ODB (SGI-8E) - or just replace the tach altogether (Autometer Auto Gage). The driving force here is simplicity and time - we have a lot to do in a short amount of time and I have to go with the 90% solution for now. If anyone is using the Autometer Auto gage 2306 tach, the only ones I can find are pedestal mounts; how did you get it in the dash? Does it come out of the housing?

I'm using the SGI-8E. I got it dialed in now, and it's pretty accurate (comparing to the RPM reported by scan-guage), but it did not work as per the instructions. I had to try different combinations of input and output (# of cylinders) to dial it in. So far, so good. I put about 1500 miles and I've never had a need to bust past the 5k limitation on the original tach.

 

[fjeng]

I modified the original cross member and it only took about a hour or so to complete. The bolt holes only moved about 3" so I cut that section out and welded in a plate. Have some pics on my thread. In my opinion was one of the easier things that I over thought. My recommendation is to get all the drive train in but on jacks, install the drive shafts that will locate it. It is easy to roll the truck to locate. Then build the cross member just hold it up and mark where the new bolts go. I added 1.5" body lift to tuck it nice but 1" would work. Used diy bushing for $40. After the cross member install the hood and jack up the motor as high as it will go and than install the motor mounts. It took me a day by myself, but did not do it in the order so I had cut mounts and redo. This is my lessons learned.

 

[Dozer18]

Fellas, running into a little power steering problem that we can use a little help with. The PS pump has more than a simple high-pressure out, low-pressure return setup; it's got extra lines that are impeding the fitment of the motor. We're assuming these are hydroboost fittings? (it's an L59 from an '06 Tahoe.) I've read through dozens of swap threads in their entirety and don't recall seeing this issue.

We're planning to replace the PS pump with an older GM version without the hydroboost, run to the Toyota box and then to a Derale 13309 external PS cooler and back. I intend to convert all the fittings to -6AN a la @NCFJ.

I understand the adapter I need for the GM side is a 16MM x 15 inverted flare to -6AN, but I'm not sure about the Toyota adapter. Anyone have a quick answer for that ('88 FJ62)?

Would love thoughts on this issue. @MANUCHAO, did you have this issue as well?

 

[Dozer18]

One more request: if anyone knows the size of the transmission cooler fittings on either the stock radiator or CSF 2708, please let me know. Some serious Googling is yielding some poor results.

 

[fjeng]

Power Steering Box Adapter
Earls 9919DFJERL 16mm to -6AN $8 Summit
I used a 6AN hose with a 90 on one end for the pump and a straight for the other made at the local hyd shop.

For my Trans cooler lines I ended up just taking it to the hyd shop and going thru the drawers. Mine ended up being I "think" a 16mm flare kinda like a brake line.

 

[NCFJ]

Personally, I'd not use aluminum fittings on the pressure hose. Contact PSC and get the correct steel fittings for the pressure hose and adapters to AN for both pump and steering box. These hose ends are reusable and field serviceable.

 

[MANUCHAO]

My set up is exactly as the pic shown above..minus the fancy hard lines..
I also used a steel fitting

Sorry @Dozer18 my set up had the two hoses only....
An earlier version pump should do the trick.

Good luck..

Frank.

 

[Dozer18]

Thanks @MANUCHAO!

He's right - @NCFJ, your fit and finish are second to none. I've admired your threads quite a bit and your attention to detail is enviable. Your insistence on using -6AN fittings is really driving my ideas here.

Unfortunately for me I'm going to be driven more by time than anything else here. I'll take the above on board and get it done.

 

[Dozer18]

Power Steering Box Adapter
Earls 9919DFJERL 16mm to -6AN $8 Summit
I used a 6AN hose with a 90 on one end for the pump and a straight for the other made at the local hyd shop.

For my Trans cooler lines I ended up just taking it to the hyd shop and going thru the drawers. Mine ended up being I "think" a 16mm flare kinda like a brake line.

Thanks @fjeng - very impressed with what you accomplished and the time in which you accomplished it. I think my local hose shop needs to be involved.

 

[Dozer18]

Personally, I'd not use aluminum fittings on the pressure hose. Contact PSC and get the correct steel fittings for the pressure hose and adapters to AN for both pump and steering box. These hose ends are reusable and field serviceable.

@NCFJ, I spoke with Kelvin at PSC and he said they would do a hose with field servicable -6AN fittings with whichever bends I like on the end. Looks like yours are 90 and 45, but how long is the hose? Also, I know it's 16x1.5mm fitting on the pump but what is the adapter on the box? Many thanks!

 

[NCFJ]

@Dozer18 Give PSC a call back. Tell them you want the fitting for the pump (you know that one) and the two fittings for the steering box, one is a 16mm the other is a 17, both to -6AN. I used a 90 and a 45 on the pressure hose. Order about 3' of pressure hose, measure and cut hose to length and assemble ends yo the hose yourself. This will make you familiar with how it works. It will also allow you to index the direction of the hose ends in relation to each other as well as the natural (from being coiled) bend in the hose.

All you need are wrenches,vise and a hack saw or similar to cut through metal in the hose. Cut another length the same once you are sure it works, tape over the ends and stick it in the bottom of your tool box. If you ever blow the hose you can fix it on the side of the road in a pinch.

 

[Dozer18]

@Dozer18 Give PSC a call back. Tell them you want the fitting for the pump (you know that one) and the two fittings for the steering box, one is a 16mm the other is a 17, both to -6AN. I used a 90 and a 45 on the pressure hose. Order about 3' of pressure hose, measure and cut hose to length and assemble ends yo the hose yourself. This will make you familiar with how it works. It will also allow you to index the direction of the hose ends in relation to each other as well as the natural (from being coiled) bend in the hose.

All you need are wrenches,vise and a hack saw or similar to cut through metal in the hose. Cut another length the same once you are sure it works, tape over the ends and stick it in the bottom of your tool box. If you ever blow the hose you can fix it on the side of the road in a pinch.

Thanks, @NCFJ - found each of the parts on their website and just ordered them up with enough to make a full spare. Appreciate the help from all of you guys.

Now off to figure out how we're going to cut the transmission hard lines and get them connected up to the new radiator and the external cooler...