Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions (4 Viewers)

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I like to make my lowers out of 2” 250 wall DOM with 1 1/4” grade 8 heim thread at the top. The tubes always bend first and the threads usually are protected pretty well by the lock nut and larger diameter tubing. If it’s a concern could you make the top arms adjustable? I won’t buy aftermarket as the tubing is always so thin.
I have a good friend who stripped out both adjustable uppers at the same time. I think the root cause is the jam nuts backing of and then the rod wiggling and destroying the threads. But that is just a guess as I didn’t see the carnage first hand. And there have been other catastrophic failures with threaded links on trucks who wheel a lot.
I’ve never needed an adjustable link to get a truck to run clean, especially at the original posters height.
I personally won’t run them.
 
I like to make my lowers out of 2” 250 wall DOM with 1 1/4” grade 8 heim thread at the top. The tubes always bend first and the threads usually are protected pretty well by the lock nut and larger diameter tubing. If it’s a concern could you make the top arms adjustable? I won’t buy aftermarket as the tubing is always so thin.
Metal Tech lower rear arms are. 1.75 x .290 wall and the tube itself is threaded for 1.25 x 12. I agree that most rear links on the market for the 80 are to thin.
 
I sleeved my replacement rear arms with DOM and extended them by 3/8”. I forgot who’s idea it originally was. It works great no vibes with Slee 4” medium springs.
 
I noticed guys talking about the 1 degree difference when setting up a DC shaft being for axel wrap. I’ve always been told by driveline shops its for lubrication of the single joint side of the drive line. If the joint never rotates it will rust and seize.
 
I swapped in a DC to the front. I'm wonering if I can retube the old front shaft to make a spare for the rear. Anyone know if the bolt pattern is the same on the front and rear so it could be retubed as a spare for the rear?
 
bolt pattern in the rear is larger than the front

Is the 80 series the only toyota vehicle with that bolt pattern on each end of the shaft? Not really worried about adding a double cardan, just wondering about making a spare shaft. Any other donor vehicles?
 
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Both DC shafts from late 90's to early 2000's 4runners and FJ/BJ60's can be used at front of T-case:

Edit: there are a couple of obstacles to overcome still though: the 4runner uses 11mm bolts, the 80 uses 10mm, and the 4Runner pattern is further out on the flange.

I’m going to have to find some 11mm studs to put on the 80 flange, and be careful about hole placement. I’ll post more later.



-The front end (nose cone) of this HF1A case pulled off (half a dozen bolts), a snap ring pulled, a gear pulled with SST or a steering wheel puller and a couple pieces of ready rod cut to 8-1/2” with a piece of steel welded to the end to catch on the bottom of the gear.

Pressed the shaft out with a 20 ton, but it came out pretty easy, I just didn’t want to dent the shaft smacking it with a hammer, though I think that would have worked.

Gotta still it next, but this is a rear 98 4runner DC shaft that fits, also my 83 BJ60 DC shaft seems to have the same center bore on the drive shaft flange to work.

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Ok, can be done, hard part is sourcing M11 x 1.0 studs which I believe Toyota won’t sell separately but can be found on the back side of a 60 series split case

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The flange is a hard steel. Take your time, not too hard, not too fast, sharp bit and cutting oil. It may even be worth having a shop done as the holes need to be dead on.
 
Ok, can be done, hard part is sourcing M11 x 1.0 studs which I believe Toyota won’t sell separately but can be found on the back side of a 60 series split case

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The flange is a hard steel. Take your time, not too hard, not too fast, sharp bit and cutting oil. It may even be worth having a shop done as the holes need to be dead on.

I'm guessing there's not enough clearance to use the 11x1.0 nuts/bolts?
 
I just snagged two shafts and fit checked...worked perfectly. Bolted right up to the 100 case I'm running.

Posts like this are what makes Mud what it is. This project of mine wouldn't exist without this kind of help. Many thanks to @Bear80 , @landtank , and others who contributed to this thread.

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The only snag to these Tacoma/4RNR DCs seems to be sourcing service joints. Toyota will happily sell a whole shaft ($$$$), but the joints aren't listed. Bummer.
 
I had a junkyard shaft cut down as a quick fix before a trip to Central Idaho a month ago. It did great even after 10 hours on the highway and some pretty hard driving following a snow cat around. I had planned on getting a new Toyota one cut down as a permanent solution but, I’m just going to rock this one for now. The donor shaft had about 130,000 miles and cost $165. I had it cut down by a local fabricator and cost $158. This thread saved my trip.

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