Builds Building Barbara - FJ80 Build Thread

FunkyYota69

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We bought a 91 FJ80. We've named her Barbara. Original plan was just tires, armor and lift kind of building a moderate wheeling rig to bomb around the Rockies. After wheeling it a bit I'm leaning towards a little more hardcore, but still Street able.

I'm cheap so most of this is DIY fabrication.

So far the changes are armor, gear storage, tires, rear auto locker, 2uz swap, "beefcake" real lower control arms since I use them as rock ramps.

Stuff I want to do:
Bigger tires, front locker, 3 link or something for more front flex, thinking part time 2wd for the ability to drive out on busted front drivetrain and less front drivetrain wear. Also it's allow me to run a cheaper auto locker :). Also I'd like to rear to 5.29 or 4.88




Links to navigate thread:
Dobinsons 3" +100kg Install
Sway bar mounts, drag link and Rear bumper v1
Front Bumper build v1
Rust and dent repair

Start of 2UZ swap
Rear Lower Control Arm Upgrade


This is how it started. Lots of cleaning.
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Here is where we are at currently.
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I'll keep updating this first post so people can keep tabs w/o scrolling through everything.

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crikeymike

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Planned work:

- 3" lift - thinking dobinsons progressive coils - This is still an open topic. Is there significant advantage for the progressive rate springs over linear?
Progressive are usually for guys wanting a soft ride on a not-too-heavy build up, and/or for guys looking for long travel, since the coils have a small group of light load turns which helps keep them in the coil bucket properly at full flex.

For guys not wanting to do that, or for a heavier build, I usually recommend linear rate springs, as there are a few different load options, and they'll also be more predictable since they're the same rate all the way thru.

FWIW, a full 3" kit with linear coils and the corresponding parts rides really great, and would last a long time.
 

FunkyYota69

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Progressive are usually for guys wanting a soft ride on a not-too-heavy build up, and/or for guys looking for long travel, since the coils have a small group of light load turns which helps keep them in the coil bucket properly at full flex.

For guys not wanting to do that, or for a heavier build, I usually recommend linear rate springs, as there are a few different load options, and they'll also be more predictable since they're the same rate all the way thru.

FWIW, a full 3" kit with linear coils and the corresponding parts rides really great, and would last a long time.
Thanks @crikeymike. Are the flexi and tapered more or less the same with respect to their performance for heavier rigs?
 

crikeymike

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The flexi are for light loads only, 200lbs front and 200lbs rear.

The tapered 3-3.5" are considered heavy load and can hold more.
 

FunkyYota69

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The flexi are for light loads only, 200lbs front and 200lbs rear.

The tapered 3-3.5" are considered heavy load and can hold more.
Without going to custom links, how much additional droop do you think you can get out of tapered on an 80 compared to linear springs?

Thanks again!
 

crikeymike

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It's a few inches. I can't remember the specs now.

3" linear coils use 3" shocks
4" linear coils use 4" shocks, which are longer

3" flexi or 3.5" tapered use the 4" shocks usually.
 

FunkyYota69

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It's a few inches. I can't remember the specs now.

3" linear coils use 3" shocks
4" linear coils use 4" shocks, which are longer

3" flexi or 3.5" tapered use the 4" shocks usually.
Gotcha. Sounds like I'll just save the coin from going with tapered and just run linear. That'd Free up some coin other mods. Haha. Thanks!
 

FunkyYota69

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The last week or so has been pretty busy getting parts in. I ordered some 315/75/16 Toyo MTs, picked up some used steel wheels of CL and ordered in some Dobinsons 3" linear rate for 220lb added load and their shocks.

IMG_20191102_130210.jpg


Over the weekend I installed the suspension shocks and springs. Still need to make up some miscellaneous brackets to lower the swaybars, raise the LSPV connecting point and e-brake mounting point on the axle.

IMG_20191102_135941.jpg


QA/QC approves of the suspension install.
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While under the truck I noticed the draglink had a bit of a bow to it, not terrible, but I ordered parts from trail gear to weld up a new one.

Yesterday I got the tires mounted. So today I obviously installed them :). I also drove up to Slee last night to get some extended brake lines. They may have not been needed for a 3" lift, but I forgot to undo them when lowering the axles to install the springs and one tore. A side note: to anyone doing the front frame to axle soft brake line on an FJ80 (not sure about fzj) it was significantly easier to remove the short curled hard line on the frame side and get it started in the vise on the bench than do it blindly in place. You can just take the hard line out and loosely assemble them on the bench and then thread the hard line back through the mount on the frame.

Here's Barb w/ the new 315s and lift.
IMG_20191105_152139.jpg
 

FunkyYota69

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Well its been a minute, but I've been working. I made up some brackets to lower the front and rear sway bar mounts. They got a fresh coat of Ace Hardware's finest gloss black paint.
IMG_20191112_133328.jpg


Then I slightly extended, but more importantly made a 0.250" DOM wall tube drag link w/ trail gears' weld in bungs. This photo is just the weld prep.
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I made up a rear bumper w/ tire swingout. I'm happy with the swingout spindle and frame, but I think I need to make brackets to support the wings of the rear bumper under the quarter panels and add a some more contact area to the catch to help transmit the load into the bumper.
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FunkyYota69

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I just got started on the winch mount and front bumper. I used 3/8" plate to bridge gap between the frame rails and mount the winch to. I'm using the 2 12mm holes and lower 2 10mm holes on the frame for now to mount the bumper. I made the fairlead mount out of 3/16" plate.
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Got the center part tacked up in place then pulled if to fully weld.
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This is the current front bumper. Sorry for the fuzzy picture.
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I'm thinking I might had a hoop above the winch to mount some auxiliary lights to.
 
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Hi Funky,
It’s funny, I just bought my first LC, I live in Summit, and it’s the same year and color as yours! My plans don’t Include fabbing bumpers though...
How hard was the speedometer cable to thread from the tranny to the dash?
 

FunkyYota69

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Awesome!

Honestly it was a piece of cake. Hardest part is removing the dash panels and reconnecting the electric plugs to the gauge cluster.

Thanks for posting here definitely reminded me I need to post up. I've gotten a bit done that I should put here.
 

FunkyYota69

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Its been a while since I posted.

I've started doing body work. I tore off the fender flares, filled the holes, repaired some rust and repaired a dent.
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I bought a compressor figuring I'd need to spray some paint eventually. Installed a A/C condenser from an F250, sacrilege I know, to cool the charge between the pump and tank. The original compressor was really loud and slow. So I bought a auxiliary pump.
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I added a second battery. I removed (for now) the cruise control module and ran the throttle cable straight to the throttle body. This took a bit more work than what I was thinking. I had to cut the cable housing and leave like 1/2" or so more stickout than the originally was there. I also had to remount the ignition stuff. I made a bracket off the side of the new battery tray for that. I also put in a 200A solenoid to connect the main battery to the aux. This is controlled from a double throw rocker switch on the dash. One station for connecting while the key is on "run" one for jumping, and one for isolating them completely. I also put the winch cables to the auxilary battery just because the original battery was kinda cluttered.

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Next up is continuing body work and paint prep. I picked up some 2k high build primer and imron industrial paint. If anyone has a paint booth I could use around denver area I'd be very grateful :). Otherwise I plan to spray in the driveway when I get a decent weather window.
 

FunkyYota69

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Looks like I'm gonna swap a V8 in. I'm planning to get a 2UZ-FE with a A750F to replace the 3FE and A440F. Since I had a hard time tracking down info on this I'll try to do a good job documenting.

I've spoken with a few people who have done similar swaps. They've said the A750F from the 100 series land cruisers will bolt up to the HF2A out of the 91-92 land cruisers.

Edit: Forgot to add that I also noticed more flex in the tire/gas can swing out than I really like. So I'm gonna add a hinge to the drivers side too. I'd recommend anyone that is considering making a tire swing out that'll also carry 10gal of fuel and possibly be used for cooking consider going the 'french door' route out of the gate.
 
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Looks like I'm gonna swap a V8 in. I'm planning to get a 2UZ-FE with a A750F to replace the 3FE and A440F. Since I had a hard time tracking down info on this I'll try to do a good job documenting.

I've spoken with a few people who have done similar swaps. They've said the A750F from the 100 series land cruisers will bolt up to the HF2A out of the 91-92 land cruisers.

Edit: Forgot to add that I also noticed more flex in the tire/gas can swing out than I really like. So I'm gonna add a hinge to the drivers side too. I'd recommend anyone that is considering making a tire swing out that'll also carry 10gal of fuel and possibly be used for cooking consider going the 'french door' route out of the gate.
Cool, subscribed! I have a 91 too, looking forward to seeing you make the 2UZ work in this.
 

FunkyYota69

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Started pulling the 3fe yesterday.

IMG_20200318_183434.jpg


Still need to pull the engine harness and ECU. Then it should be basically unbolt and pull.

If anyone in the Denver area is interested in helping out let me know.
 

FunkyYota69

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Pulled the donor motor today. I got the 2uz-fe, A750F, ECU, complete transmission and engine wiring harness and drive by wire pedal.

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In my tacoma for transport home.
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I found a Russian guy who can hack the Engine ECU. (Link) I have a couple friends who've worked with him before, but I'll keep you posted on that. His kit replaces an EEPROM on the ECU and he has some daughter card that emulated the key transponder with a key.

The issue at hand is how to wire the drive by wire pedal to the rest of the system. I've been reading this thread (Builds - 2UZFE swap into FJ80 - building - in progress) but he apparently has a non-immobilized ECM and cable controlled throttle.

My plan for the DBW stuff is to go the the junk yard and pull a connect with the wire tails from another DWB 2UZ vehicle. Heres a screen shot of the wiring from the manual I'm working with.
Screen Shot 2020-03-21 at 8.39.53 PM.png
 
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FunkyYota69

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Started pulling the 3fe today. Didn't get it completely out. I got it mostly out then decided I needed to deal with the gasoline siphoning out of my gas tank.

IMG_20200322_174004.jpg


A pleasant surprise is that the transfer case shifter mounts to the top of the A750F as the 100 series did. This picture is the 80s shifter on the new transmission.
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