Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions (5 Viewers)

[COYS]

I got a nice divot on my landtank DC prop shaft as I've been running sans sway bar drop bracket for 50K miles now (fixed). Zero noise or vibes from the @landtank unit so props to him!

This gives me pause to see what else is out there esp since chief landtank doesn't have one of his trusty DCs in stock at the moment.

• I'm reading about a bunch of options from Tom Woods, Tatton, using spicer joints etc etc, but none of these interest me as I'd like to use all Japanese parts
• Local to me in SoCal are shaft shops like Irwindale, Northridge and JE Reel who seem to cater to domestic brands like Jeep (pardon my ignorance)
• A Jim at JE Reel quoted me $750 to build an all Japanese brand parts DC

My decision tree atm is throw $750 worth of dice with JE Reel or refresh the dented landtank DC and/or wait for the next batch of landtank DCs. Most of the shaft makers seem to be hit/miss along the customer experience front akin to tires, engine oil, cell phone providers. Some swear by them; others swear them off.

Has anyone had success in sourcing an OEM-like quality, all Japanese parts DC prop shaft for our 80 series?

This thread is OLD. Many thanks.

 

[landtank]

sounds like you need a re-tube and a balance. I recently rebuilt and shaft , CV included, for a customer who neglected to grease the joints regularly. The shaft you have is far from gone and can be brought back to like new for less than 750.00.

 

[COYS]

sounds like you need a re-tube and a balance. I recently rebuilt and shaft , CV included, for a customer who neglected to grease the joints regularly. The shaft you have is far from gone and can be brought back to like new for less than 750.00.

That’s only half the battle. The real challenge for me is finding a trustworthy shafter who knows what they’re doing and will do it right. Would value Republic of Socal based shop recs. Many thanks.

 

[LINUS]

That’s only half the battle. The real challenge for me is finding a trustworthy shafter who knows what they’re doing and will do it right. Would value Republic of Socal based shop recs. Many thanks.

Dude…..and I say this in real deal worth - if you will grease a shaft (yeah, sodomy or homo joke here ) - I’d buy a @landtank / R - approved or built/sourced shaft and call it good.

What you pay in shipping is chump change over “rolling dice” - on some yada-yada shop your nephew’s-cousin’s-buddy says does good work on a simple DL for a RWD V8 domestic ride like a Camaro.

I got my DC shaft for the FR from Christo & paid the ‘Slee tax’ - but it’s all ‘Yota & rebuildable w/ ‘Yota parts if I beat it up - but I doubt it’ll happen.

Buy once, cry once - a saying we 80 guys all near have tattooed on our wallet

 

[BILT4ME]

That’s only half the battle. The real challenge for me is finding a trustworthy shafter who knows what they’re doing and will do it right. Would value Republic of Socal based shop recs. Many thanks.

Buy a new one from LT, then sell your "damaged" one for half price. Someone here will jump on it.

Or, take it off, ship it to LT, then reinstall when you get it back.

I can't disagree on finding a place that can do it well.

I have used Inland Truck Parts for DS in the past, but they insist on using THEIR parts and they are not the best parts. However, that was on a Studebaker and a GMC that will get low miles and little abuse.

Having seen a DC shaft and the carnage left after a catastrophic failure on the highway at 70 MPH, I will never do a lift that would require one. That one had Spicer joints in it, but I don't know who made it.

 

[nukegoat]

Just run the dent.

 

[COYS]

Buy a new one from LT, then sell your "damaged" one for half price. Someone here will jump on it. [I'm rebuilding the landtank unit and stowing it away for a rainy day.]

Or, take it off, ship it to LT, then reinstall when you get it back. [Too much effort, no time to waste.]

I can't disagree on finding a place that can do it well. [Yup!]

I have used Inland Truck Parts for DS in the past, but they insist on using THEIR parts and they are not the best parts. However, that was on a Studebaker and a GMC that will get low miles and little abuse. [JE Reel has, so far, been easy to reach over the phone and patiently addressed all my questions/requests as I commission the new DC unit currently being built as I type! I'm excited to check it out. All Japanese, OE quality brand parts. Good or disappointing results, I'll certainly try and report back on my findings since my question wasn't answered here.]

Having seen a DC shaft and the carnage left after a catastrophic failure on the highway at 70 MPH, I will never do a lift that would require one. That one had Spicer joints in it, but I don't know who made it. [Most lifts do require it (thus the thread) like a front sway bar bracket drop. I've run a DC shaft for 50K miles now, zero noise/issues. Mind you, mine is a pretty conservative 2-2.5" OME medium lift. YMMV.]

 

[BILT4ME]

Wait, you've only got a 2.5" lift and you're hitting the sway bar, but not going offroad?

I've got a 2.5" lift (OME Heavy), no swaybar drop brackets, and I have not touched my DS.

What gives? I have done some offroad with all my daily tools and crap in it, so it's not "light".

Why would yours be hitting? Due to the Delta arms? I have no caster correction either.

 

[baldilocks]

Post a pic of the shaft damage.

 

[COYS]

I'm having @2KCruiser help me get the landtank DC fixed/refreshed which I'll keep as back-up with its lovely Koyo bits.

In the meantime, picked this up and will install today.

JE Reel's Scott has been easy to reach and handled all my requests/questions with aplomb. I spec'ed it with all Japanese bits which include the Matsuba joints (i.e. no Spicer).

We'll see how it performs!

 

[2000cruiser]

I'm having @2KCruiser help me get the landtank DC fixed/refreshed which I'll keep as back-up with its lovely Koyo bits.

In the meantime, picked this up and will install today.

View attachment 2995235

JE Reel's Scott has been easy to reach and handled all my requests/questions with aplomb. I spec'ed it with all Japanese bits which include the Matsuba joints.

We'll see how it performs!

Looking sexy. Any zirks on this one they quoted you for $750?

 

[COYS]

Looking sexy. Any zirks on this one they quoted you for $750?

All the joints and shaft just like the landtank unit! Scott recommended I use Lucas Red & Tacky every other oil change for posterity.

I'm hoping JE Reel becomes another legit DC option esp for us lifted 80 owners in SoCal. I'll keep y'all apprised.

 

[2000cruiser]

Would be stoked if they turn out decent and reliable, best of luck! Now I'm "extra" watching this thread.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Include a few photos of the DC end when you get a chance. I'm interested in what parts were used.

 

[COYS]

JE Reel didn't make the cut. I had a different kind of noise at hwy speeds so had to scrap it unfortunately. Super nice mgmt team there though.

I reverted back to my trusty old landtank og shaft after it was re-sleeved and balanced by JE Reel. Joy --> back to zero noise/vibes. I didn't know those Koyo joints are so hard to come by! Glad I didn't scrap it.

Clicking around got me to purchase landtank's 2.0 DC shaft which I just received today. I'll get it installed after my road trip coming up combined with a new OEM rear shaft just to start all over fresh. If any issues, I'll report back.

Nicely packaged

I need to verify whether I've lined up the two ends correctly as the two came apart when I pulled it from the cylinder box from the single joint side

Single end

DC end

There are 5 zerks: 3 in the CV joint, 1 in the slip yoke and 1 in the front u-joint (doesn't come pre-greased)

 

[COYS]

Shaft orientation corrected. Zerks all line up now.

 

[landtank]

One thing you’ll like is how easy this shaft is to grease when installed on the truck. The centering ball on the factory shafts were always tricky to get to when on the truck. When this shaft is oriented with all the zerks pointing down every one is easily accessed.

 

[COYS]

One thing you’ll like is how easy this shaft is to grease when installed on the truck. The centering ball on the factory shafts were always tricky to get to when on the truck. When this shaft is oriented with all the zerks pointing down every one is easily accessed.

I noticed this straight away along with the cool military olive paint. Thanks for putting this product to market. I've got your MAF, 1st gen DC, rear drop links and now this 2.0 DC. They all just work like T parts.

Keep up the good work. I'm sure many of us appreciate you and your business.

 

[desmocruiser]

The 2.0 looks like a great option. I have had great luck with all my Land Tank products, including one of his earlier DC’s.

@landtank is there a published price for you to properly service/upgrade one of your older DC shafts?

I am building another 80 and will buy a 2.0, thinking that would be a good time refresh the first one I bought from you. Could it really have been a decade ago?

 

[Fosters]

One thing you’ll like is how easy this shaft is to grease when installed on the truck. The centering ball on the factory shafts were always tricky to get to when on the truck. When this shaft is oriented with all the zerks pointing down every one is easily accessed.

First thing I notice this morning when I mounted mine up…cured my vibe issue I was suffering from at 1800rpm or so….
Thanks Rick!!!