Door Insulation - has anyone done it? (1 Viewer)

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I have my doors stripped for painting and new seals, and I got to thinking that it may be a good time to add some insulation.

I am thinking for both cold and sound insulation.

It looks like there is room for 1/4 thick material on the door.I was thinking of gluing some 1/4 styro-foam blue, or sticking some foil backed bubble wrap, or maybe some of that black stuff that goes on the floor.

Has anyone done anything like this? Am I out to lunch or what?
 
I've seen a thread or two on peel and stick sound proofing material.
 
Sticking extra stuff inside the door may be asking for trouble. The more stuff inside (along with plugged drain holes, etc.) seems to be what creates the most trouble. Probably the more moving air the better for all the moisture that gets in there. As far as noise goes, it is a cruiser - maybe better to get some ears plugs :grinpimp:
 
Insulating against cold doesn't make that much sense. It's a solid steel door. Your time and money will be best spent on new weather stripping. Even non oem that is thicker.

Most doors do not have weather insulation on the inside. If you want to run door speakers, you will greatly improve sound with dynomat or any other brand which is peel and stick. This is somewhat futile since the entire interior is metal. If you were running rubber mat throughout the car and a good padded headliner, it might be worth focusing on acoustics o your stereo.

In my mustang, I used radiant barrier on the floor when I redid it for the daily commute. That REALLY cut down on heat an sound. My header collector was right under my foot!

For heat protection, this radiant barrier might be worth 20 bucks and you time.
 
I installed some Hush Mat in the doors of my 79. But its a garage queen and won't be out in the rain if I can help it. It was relatively easy to install. It is expensive unless you can buy it in sections and not a box.
 
I just installed Hushmat on my floorboards and firewall to cut down on the radiant heat. Seems to work pretty well so far.
 
Right now, I have sound deadening covering about half of the passenger side door skin, and none on the driver's side.

I wasn't after heat insulation, just wanted a little less boominess and a more solid sound when the door shut.

It makes a noticeable difference, and I would recommend it.
 
I used some of that home depot foam in a can that expands

Of course this is on my half doors that don't see winter or rain

Works nice and fills all the cracks


But that being said. Your driving a 30 year old car not designed for insulation or it would've come with insulation. Take a pass on this idea
 
Thanks for all the comments guys.

I know that the door gets a lot of moisture in it. That's probably why my door handle siezes up every two years and cast metal breaks. I have lines my ceiling with the foil bubble wrap and it has cut down on condensation dripping down on me on cold days.

I have some peel and stick stuff left from when I installed new windows in my house. I may try that. The insides of the doors are very clean and I should get good adhesion.

I have all new door seals and window seals from CCOT so I got that side covered. I was hoping that the new window seals would cut down or almost eliminate the water from rain getting inside trhe door.

Maybe not from what I am hearing.

I have two sets of unmolested door panels, so I may put speakers in the doors.
 
I think you will be extremely pleased with the effect you will have from the weather stripping alone.

are you getting the kick panel gaskets? I would also make sure all firewall bushings are sealed up and new or repaired. You would be amazed how much heat in TX summer and cold while in CO comes in through the tiny crack I made while running my 4 gauge wire for my Sub in my new Jetta. Its a significant draft at 60 mph with a 1/4 inch hole. Remember though any type of heat barrier above where the Header and collector run will help heat. This will also make it colder in the winter. ;) Take your pick.
 

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