Dome lights and clock completely inop (1 Viewer)
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You provided no details about your truck, so I will take a guess.
Both the dome lights and clock are fed from the 10 amp DOME fuse in the relay block on the left fender. It also supplies constant +12 to the radio to keep the presets.
The fusible link to the DOME fuse feeds several other items that would render the truck undriveable if it were open.
There are no secret relays involved here. The dome lights are a simple contact closure to body ground fed by a constant +12.
Both the dome lights and clock are fed from the 10 amp DOME fuse in the relay block on the left fender. It also supplies constant +12 to the radio to keep the presets.
The fusible link to the DOME fuse feeds several other items that would render the truck undriveable if it were open.
There are no secret relays involved here. The dome lights are a simple contact closure to body ground fed by a constant +12.
- Thread starter
- #3
What other details would you like? Its a 1991 HDJ80. Everything in the vehicle operates perfectly except for the dome lights and the dash clock. Dome fuse is intact. Bulbs are intact. Dome lights do not work in any switch position, with or without the doors open.
Just looking for ideas (grounds, other possible relays, etc) that other cruiserheads might’ve encountered causing this malfunction.
Squash
SILVER Star
Read above again!
Year and model are always pertinent information.
While I don't have the schematics for a 91 HDJ80, I can't imagine that Toyota would have changed anything.
Again, the dome lights are about as simple a circuit as it gets.
You have a constant +12 supply to one side of a light bulb. The other side of the light bulb is a switched ground through either through the roof mounting screws (ON position) or a switched ground through the door jamb switches (DOOR position). No magic, no voodoo, no mystery.
I suspect you are not getting +12 to/from the fuse, or there is a faulty connection on EA1 in the engine bay. Start checking voltage point to point.
No voltage to the DOME fuse indicates an open between the fusible link AM1 and the DOME fuse, which would also effect your hazard lights.
Hi, I wired my new head Unit and wired everything correctly (I believe) via the color codes to the harnesses. I turned on my car, the dome light and head unit came on, however, they started flicking on/off and then shut off. Now the dome light won't work and the head unit no longer gets power.
I checked the fuze in the left panel (hood), doesn't seem burnt, any help would be appreciated.
1997 FJZ80, replacing factory head unit with aftermarket. Does it need more power?
I checked the fuze in the left panel (hood), doesn't seem burnt, any help would be appreciated.
1997 FJZ80, replacing factory head unit with aftermarket. Does it need more power?
sounds familiar
GD,MF electrical short
A little back story, Truck was bought in California and now has 317,000 miles on it. Been a good performing vehicle, rust free but paint that was peeling. A few years ago the 10amp fuse in the relay block in the engine compartment blew and I lost all interior lights and the radio. New fuse and...
forum.ih8mud.com
Please tell me you replaced it with a new one anyway just to make sure.
So I found it was the fuse. I put a new one in and as I touched it sparked. The dome light etc came back on, but as soon as I put in my new head unit it blew again. I have wired the harness exactly as it should be with all the colors, maybe I don’t need some of the wires to be connected? Any help is appreciated
Now follow landtank's link/advice.
Don’t connect the antenna wire of the new adapter harness if it has one.
And an easy check for what I had is to unplug the DS harness that runs up the A pillar at the side kick panel.
The main harness comes through the firewall and branches out in several directions. These connectors are stuffed into the body in a clump right at the A-pillar near the floor. Pull that out and one branch travels up the A- pillar. Unplug that and if your short goes away then it’s up in the roof.
The main harness comes through the firewall and branches out in several directions. These connectors are stuffed into the body in a clump right at the A-pillar near the floor. Pull that out and one branch travels up the A- pillar. Unplug that and if your short goes away then it’s up in the roof.
Agree, I thought that was the issue as well. So I got a separate harness (given I had use solder splices
) to test it out and ONLY connected constant power, ignition power and ground, and no short. It turned on and stay on for a minute, then when I turned the car off something blew again.I think it maybe a short in one of the speaker wires, so I have to probably go one at a time to figure out what the issue is.
LOL @ below!
Will try this as well.
an den?
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I can guarantee your speakers aren't blowing fuses.
If you haven't done it already, the factory amplifier needs to be unplugged.
You can find it mounted behind the passenger dash speaker. Remove the glove box for access.
Interesting, thank you!!
