Thanks again Doc, on my hit list is how to weld and learn to paint single stage paint. Have already done some base with clear coat but nothing beats single stage. Any advice on what equip to buy? I can PM you if that is ok?
Builds Doc's 1978 FJ40 Rebuild (1 Viewer)
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- #402
@tls3601
Feel Free to PM Anytime. My response time may vary due to slow internet speeds at home and inconsistent time spent on the computer at work.
Soooo many opinions on what equipment to acquire -- it all comes down to what you like and what becomes familiar. Some standards would include a quality air compressor that can keep up with whatever project you intend to use it for (painting, sandblasting, impact wrench, DA Sander, etc.). A quality oil/water separator is a good idea when painting, especially with any kind of humidity. Proper clothing and respiratory protection are essential with some of the nasty chemicals out there.
Spray guns? I started off with pot style guns (decades ago) but have moved over to the gravity feed style. I have both HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) and non-HVLP -- an internal air pressure restrictor in the HVLP gun is designed to reduce overspray/save paint. Im not sure if its because I use a thicker/high solids paint or if I am just not talented with the HVLP gun but I seem to get a better quality finish with a little more air pressure. The paint I am using is an industrial grade paint that is a carry over from the tractor days -- it is what I am familiar with, goes on easy, and looks great years later/has held up to bumps/dings, gas drips, antifreeze, oil, etc.
Color | ChemSpec USA
Of course the end result is only as good as the preparation. That is an entire thread of discussion on metal/surface preparation, fillers, primers, etc. There are other MUD Members well versed in the area of paint -- Ive read a lot of @Splangy 's posts and the guy knows his stuff.
Im happy to tell you what I know or how Ive done things. . . there may be better methods and believe me I do not know everthing. At this point I am pleased with how the 40 has progressed and hopefully when Im done Ill be able to sing a little Sinatra and say "I did it myyy waaayyy!" (With MUD for reference, parts from supporting vendors, and advice from other members of course!)
Feel Free to PM Anytime. My response time may vary due to slow internet speeds at home and inconsistent time spent on the computer at work.
Soooo many opinions on what equipment to acquire -- it all comes down to what you like and what becomes familiar. Some standards would include a quality air compressor that can keep up with whatever project you intend to use it for (painting, sandblasting, impact wrench, DA Sander, etc.). A quality oil/water separator is a good idea when painting, especially with any kind of humidity. Proper clothing and respiratory protection are essential with some of the nasty chemicals out there.
Spray guns? I started off with pot style guns (decades ago) but have moved over to the gravity feed style. I have both HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) and non-HVLP -- an internal air pressure restrictor in the HVLP gun is designed to reduce overspray/save paint. Im not sure if its because I use a thicker/high solids paint or if I am just not talented with the HVLP gun but I seem to get a better quality finish with a little more air pressure. The paint I am using is an industrial grade paint that is a carry over from the tractor days -- it is what I am familiar with, goes on easy, and looks great years later/has held up to bumps/dings, gas drips, antifreeze, oil, etc.
Color | ChemSpec USA
Of course the end result is only as good as the preparation. That is an entire thread of discussion on metal/surface preparation, fillers, primers, etc. There are other MUD Members well versed in the area of paint -- Ive read a lot of @Splangy 's posts and the guy knows his stuff.
Im happy to tell you what I know or how Ive done things. . . there may be better methods and believe me I do not know everthing. At this point I am pleased with how the 40 has progressed and hopefully when Im done Ill be able to sing a little Sinatra and say "I did it myyy waaayyy!" (With MUD for reference, parts from supporting vendors, and advice from other members of course!)
@TractorDoc thanks so much for your input. I realize there is a LOT to learn but it does really interest me. I see where HVLP is very common now but do realize I need a pretty serious compressor to make things work and get the results I am looking for as well.
Any reccomendations on air compressors that would be adequate for painting??
- Thread starter
- #405
Again, a lot of options on compressors. Single Stage, Two Stage, PSIs, Gallons, CFMs, Volts, Horsepowers. . . it will make your head spin.
Here is a link to some of the terminology that may provide more background info:
Air Compressor Buying Guide | Buying an Air Compressor
Basically take into consideration the type of tools you will be using, how often you will be using them, and how long you plan to keep using them into the future. A little more air power is always better than not enough, but most of us are not going to put the demands on a compressor that a restoration/full time shop would.
All that being said, this is what I have been using:
80 Gallon Tank, 7.5hp Motor, 21cfm @ 100psi which is overkill for a spray gun. I will say the sandblaster and the blasting cabinet have pushed the compressor a little harder than Ive liked but we got the job done and the air is still getting squished.
While I was at it I took a quick picture of the inline desiccant filter/regulator I recently acquired. This would typically be plumbed directly into the shop airlines but I put fittings on both ends to help the filter last longer (only use it when painting) and gain portability. It made a huge difference in quality of the paint finish when I sprayed the tub.
Not much 40 progress in the last couple days but I did get the windshield out of the frame and I did disassemble the spare tire carrier. I had to heat and beat the hinges and pins but accomplished the task with less frustration than anticipated. I also learned that if the bedliner coating will not come off with the blaster I can always burn it off!
While in the shop I also took this picture:
It may seem like I missed what I was trying to take a picture of but in fact I did not. . . the floor underneath the 40 is dry and drip free after driving it around on Sunday and that is guaranteed to help me sleep much better at night.
.
Here is a link to some of the terminology that may provide more background info:
Air Compressor Buying Guide | Buying an Air Compressor
Basically take into consideration the type of tools you will be using, how often you will be using them, and how long you plan to keep using them into the future. A little more air power is always better than not enough, but most of us are not going to put the demands on a compressor that a restoration/full time shop would.
All that being said, this is what I have been using:
80 Gallon Tank, 7.5hp Motor, 21cfm @ 100psi which is overkill for a spray gun. I will say the sandblaster and the blasting cabinet have pushed the compressor a little harder than Ive liked but we got the job done and the air is still getting squished.
While I was at it I took a quick picture of the inline desiccant filter/regulator I recently acquired. This would typically be plumbed directly into the shop airlines but I put fittings on both ends to help the filter last longer (only use it when painting) and gain portability. It made a huge difference in quality of the paint finish when I sprayed the tub.
Not much 40 progress in the last couple days but I did get the windshield out of the frame and I did disassemble the spare tire carrier. I had to heat and beat the hinges and pins but accomplished the task with less frustration than anticipated. I also learned that if the bedliner coating will not come off with the blaster I can always burn it off!
While in the shop I also took this picture:
It may seem like I missed what I was trying to take a picture of but in fact I did not. . . the floor underneath the 40 is dry and drip free after driving it around on Sunday and that is guaranteed to help me sleep much better at night.
.
@TractorDoc thanks for the props.
What I can say is that I don't paint cars for a living. I do it as a hobby on my own cars. I make a living as a corrosion engineer in the pipeline business and I carry the things I've learned over to my restorations.
We all know that prep is the most important part of a quality paint job. This is true whether it's a high pressure gas pipeline or a 1970 Toyota. I don't need to get into the details, but I will if you have questions because there are many misconceptions in this regard.
As far as equipment goes, buy the best gun and the best paint you can afford. You'd be surprised how well you can paint with a cheap harbor freight gun if you use good paint.
That said, you're going to need a lot of air to paint a whole car. You can get away with a small compressor for small parts, but make sure you have a large enough compressor that can keep up with the air requirements of whichever gun you choose if you're going to be painting large parts like your tub. Most guns will tell you how many cfm they require. You'll be amazed at how much air you need.
I recently purchased a new angle die grinder from a popular chain website. I read the reviews before purchasing it and saw that a couple people were upset because it didn't work well with their small compressors. Wel no s*** it didn't work, they were trying to use a tool that requires a s*** ton of air with a compressor that wasn't meant for much more than inflating tires!
What I can say is that I don't paint cars for a living. I do it as a hobby on my own cars. I make a living as a corrosion engineer in the pipeline business and I carry the things I've learned over to my restorations.
We all know that prep is the most important part of a quality paint job. This is true whether it's a high pressure gas pipeline or a 1970 Toyota. I don't need to get into the details, but I will if you have questions because there are many misconceptions in this regard.
As far as equipment goes, buy the best gun and the best paint you can afford. You'd be surprised how well you can paint with a cheap harbor freight gun if you use good paint.
That said, you're going to need a lot of air to paint a whole car. You can get away with a small compressor for small parts, but make sure you have a large enough compressor that can keep up with the air requirements of whichever gun you choose if you're going to be painting large parts like your tub. Most guns will tell you how many cfm they require. You'll be amazed at how much air you need.
I recently purchased a new angle die grinder from a popular chain website. I read the reviews before purchasing it and saw that a couple people were upset because it didn't work well with their small compressors. Wel no s*** it didn't work, they were trying to use a tool that requires a s*** ton of air with a compressor that wasn't meant for much more than inflating tires!
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- Thread starter
- #407
I found this to be true with my blasting cabinet. I was used to using a commercial compressor that was designed to keep 1" impacts, blasting cabinets, and other assorted tools running for a 9-5 workday. When running my cabinet on the home compressor I would have to stop and take breaks every 10 minutes or so to let the compressor rest and not overwork it. It handled the paint gun fine when painting the tub or even larger projects in the past but would cycle more often that I would have thought.
Perhaps I should have said "which is possibly overkill for a spray gun depending on the size of your project."
A lot of parts on this 40 has been painted with a $30 Harbor Freight Gun. Side by side I could not really tell you which parts were sprayed with the HF gun or the $300 DeVilbiss Gun. That could speak well for the paint or poorly for me using the pricey gun -- either way I am happy with how things have turned out to this point so we will give credit to the paint.
Thanks for checking in Splangy! I always enjoy your posts and over the last year Ive had a little Weimeriner (or is it a Silver Lab?) on my shoulder reminding me to review my Technical Data Sheets!
@Splangy and @TractorDoc I sure do appreciate both of you for the valuable input. There is much to learn and that is just considering paint! Also want to learn to weld. Wish I started all this stuff sooner. I just may send
Out a PM or two with questions if you guys don't mind
Out a PM or two with questions if you guys don't mind
I realize that this post is way too late to help you on this project, but it may help you, or someone else, on a future project. I'm not familiar with what Toyota uses on these transmissions, but what I am familiar with is the system used on SM 420/465 transmissions. Something I have found that works to lock in the shift shaft cover is a large (7/8ths to maybe 1 1/4) open end wrench. I use the open end, place it around the shift shaft, make sure the slots in the cover match up to the tower pins, press down on the locking cover and turn. Some are turned clockwise, and some are counter clockwise, and I'm not sure if the direction of rotation has any significance other than the cover and slots dictate the direction.
Don
@TractorDoc and @Splangy I am researching compressors. Opinions on Campbell Hausefeld, Northern Air, other manu's?? I thing a two stage is what I am after, is that good?
You should buy the biggest one you can afford and or have room for.
I used to work with a small compressor and I had to wait all the time for it to catch up.
I now have a two stage with 700 liter capacity and 500 in the tank.
I hardly use electric tools anymore and I can use the blasting cabinet without waiting for air.
Better do it right now or you"ll be looking for a bigger one soon.
I used to work with a small compressor and I had to wait all the time for it to catch up.
I now have a two stage with 700 liter capacity and 500 in the tank.
I hardly use electric tools anymore and I can use the blasting cabinet without waiting for air.
Better do it right now or you"ll be looking for a bigger one soon.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Yes, yes and yes! I went with a 60 gallon Quincy 2 stage compressor. It's great but if doing it again I'd step up to the 80 gallon version.
- Thread starter
- #413
I have often thought that things like engine oil, laundry soap, soda pop, paper towels, shoes, mattresses, clothing, etc. etc. etc. are all made in the same place but are given different brands by retailers. I wonder if compressors fall into the same category. I am sure, just like with the other products, that there are differences in manufacturing location and quality -- but I bet a good percentage are very similar. Consider something that has a good reputation for durability, local support, and a good warranty should you ever need it. As the others have said, just like when building a shop, collecting firewood, or stocking up on cold drinks for a hot weekend -- get more compressor than you think you will need up front vs. wishing you had more later (without breaking the budget of course).
Back to 40 stuff.
Much of the shop time I had available yesterday was spent on the spare tire carrier. While I had previously joked about burning the bed liner coating off I did indeed need to bust out the torch for a bit. Seems the bedliner was rubbery enough that blasting alone was inefficient and a lot of the media bounced right back at me. A team effort of using the torch, wire wheel, sandblaster, and blasting cabinet eventually cleaned the carrier up to my satisfaction.
A quick spray of POR-15 Metal Prep after the blasting is what gives the chalky look.
Anyone remember this guy?
With the warmer month's Ive tried to encourage Stashe to become an outdoor cat. While he spends a good amount of time there and has become quite proficient at collecting chipmunks he was still fond to taking a nap on the moving blankets used to cover the 40. Now that I have made a little more progress on the truck I am finding footprints in areas Id rather not and needed to break him of this habit. I was perusing the clearance section at the Mega-Mart and found a couple of decent car covers for $15 each (originally $70!), the medium size is a little snug but should keep the critters out.
I have the windshield frame sanded and ready for primer. Working on the hood -- using the DA and hand sanding to avoid warping the metal. The last of my epoxy primer was used when spraying the seat brackets so an order will have to be placed at the paint shop before I can start spraying again. Trying to keep track of all the little pieces as well (wiper motor cover, hood hinges, tire carrier hook, etc.) so nothing gets left behind this time. I should probably write this stuff down so not to lose track of something, but always seem to forget to do so in the shop environment.
I label small pieces and put in sandwich bags-some I just label with a sharpie and blue painters tape.
I can relate totally I have misplaced a upper shock bolt, have looked everywhere and cannot seem to find it. I usually do the same @tls3601 , but this item came back from the blaster by it's self and has disappeared. Its best to have only one person dealing with all the parts, the one taking them off and putting them back on.
@gator25 I agree totally one person handling parts!!! Your project is coming along great btw!! I want to do a frame up someday. Preferably a '76-78 in Sky Blue or Mustard. @Tools R Us agrees that my '78 is nowhere near needing one yet but I like fixing things up and the girlfriend wants us to do one together, that makes it easy.................
- Thread starter
- #417
I do try to label/bag/tag/sensibly store each piece as its removed so I can find it again and know where it goes. . . that is not so much the problem. I need to concentrate more on when to bring each piece back out for prep/paint so installation can proceed in an efficient manner. Getting the windshield frame painted will be a big step forward but remembering to find, pull, prep, and also paint the little brackets that the dash knobs thread into will also allow me to install it. Saves me from going thru the process twice and needing to clean out the paint gun again.
I think I am finally starting to understand what was happening in the days of my youth when Id be out in the shop trying to "help" dad with one of the car projects. Ninety percent of the time Id stand or sit around with nothing to do -- even though I was told I was helping. I realize I currently do the same thing. . . I can have a helper available but tend not to utilize him or her. I have specific goals and expectations and I find it is just easier to accomplish them myself (or fail trying) vs. trying to explain to someone else how to get there. I am all for including the folks, wife, nephews, etc. in a project but I am so far in on the 40 (no one was really interested in helping when everything was rusty and dirty anyway) that finishing it will be my burden to bear.
Spent yesterday and today in Michigan on a greenhouse/plant tour. Several big greenhouses showcase new plant varieties and container combinations -- not really my cup of tea but I usually go with the folks as a family event. Did not even take the camera this year but dug up an old one from years past. . .
One nice thing was the weather stayed in the mid 70s this year vs. in the 90s in years past. Arrived back home to find more progress accomplished on the barn as well as another interesting tool. Instead of an electric (or manual) screw gun the guys have found a way to modify a weed wacker engine to do the job.
The old fashioned hand drill/screw installer is to the right in the above picture. Now, if you find you are an Amishman on the go yet still needing to install screws we also have the mobile version:
I realize this is not the tool or flower forum, but I like tools and I find the ways people engineer things to fit their needs fascinating. I doubt I will ever own a flexible shaft drive drill or screw gun, but I can appreciate the idea and creativity that went into creating it.
@Coolerman used some thought and creativity to build a LED flasher unit for me; we came to realize that my rear tailights do not communicate with the front 1978 main harness so the flasher does not feel enough pull (current? voltage? amps? probably one of those) to start flashing when the signal is tripped. This fancy assembly (part with the squiggly wire) should save me from needing to install additional bulbs on the front signal circuit to achieve working signals:
The other two pieces are exhaust flanges acquired from overlandadventurecompany.com -- I ordered a 2 1/2" and a 2" flange so I had options when it came time to take the 40 to the exhaust shop. I was not sure what size pipe would be easier to work with; each flange was $20 so having both sizes was still cheaper than ordering the $45 flange from $OR.
I also have my sanding/blasting done on the next round of pieces. I ended up using aircraft paint stripper on most of the hood because I found a can on the shelf and it saved a lot of sanding time.
Epoxy primer has been ordered so with any luck I may need to use and clean the paint gun this weekend. . . hopefully just once for each step.
What size diameter is the exhaust manifold outlet?
- Thread starter
- #419
View attachment 1504755
The old fashioned hand drill/screw installer is to the right in the above picture.
The tool you are referencing in this pic is what I used when I started cabinetmakers apprenticeship. What we called it was a Yankee driver/drill. I still have mine--somewhere. This was before battery powered drills were around. I never want to go back to using a Yankee.
Don
