DIY Tundra Brakes (BBK)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
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- Thread starter
- #83
Replacing the shields would be better from a fit and venting perspective.
That said, the existing shields work fine with a bit of massaging and will still support the majority of improved thermal and cooling capacity of the larger rotors.
The added labor is not insignificant, easily more than twice the effort. Perhaps if needing to R&R bearings or rusting shields, could make it worthwhile.
@TeCKis300 I love you man, this upgrade is proper. I definitely feel more confident in my SCed LX. Thanks for sharing and helping this community. One thing I forgot to do was upgrade the rear lines to S/S. Oops.
- Thread starter
- #85
Isn't it?? One of the more satisfying upgrades.
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
This is great - I'm getting parts together to both replace brakes and upgrade the setup in the process. This is new for me so planning to try and get some local help if possible. That being said, I'm working on making sure I've got the right parts and at least generally understand the procedures.
At least according to the shop I had my car at my pads are currently 2-4mm all around, not trying to second-guess the shop, but if it's a good excuse to upgrade regardless I'm happy. Aside from this upgrade, I'm looking at doing the StopTech Set is that the right one for the upgraded setup? Anything I should be concerned with for them?
Reading through this thread I wanted to check that I have everything right...
There's no difference between LX and LC for brakes- just across years? So between pre-2016 and 2016+ it was only the front brakes that changed, correct?
If I'm reading things right, all I need to do is replace the front calipers with the newer 2016+ calipers, drill out the hole slightly to fit the larger bolts, is that right?
Now for some of the dumber questions:
Do brake lines still need to be replaced (or should they?)
How many of the replacement bolts (90105-14198) are needed total?
Will replacing the calipers require a bleed?
Anything else I'm missing?
At least according to the shop I had my car at my pads are currently 2-4mm all around, not trying to second-guess the shop, but if it's a good excuse to upgrade regardless I'm happy. Aside from this upgrade, I'm looking at doing the StopTech Set is that the right one for the upgraded setup? Anything I should be concerned with for them?
Reading through this thread I wanted to check that I have everything right...
There's no difference between LX and LC for brakes- just across years? So between pre-2016 and 2016+ it was only the front brakes that changed, correct?
If I'm reading things right, all I need to do is replace the front calipers with the newer 2016+ calipers, drill out the hole slightly to fit the larger bolts, is that right?
Now for some of the dumber questions:
Do brake lines still need to be replaced (or should they?)
How many of the replacement bolts (90105-14198) are needed total?
Will replacing the calipers require a bleed?
Anything else I'm missing?
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Yes, you need to bleed them. The fact that you asked that incredibly basic question says you are in way over your head. Please don't attempt this job alone. Find someone who has done brakes before. If you do this job and don't bleed your brakes, you could very easily kill yourself or someone else.
bloc
SILVER Star
I agree with Charlie.. This is incredibly risky if you’ve never done it. Yes YouTube can go a long way but brakes are one critical area you should either have experience or a watchful eye from someone that knows what they are doing.
To answer the other questions though: with 16+ calipers your existing brake lines will bolt right up. Get new crush washers though. They are pre-bent to cover both sides of the banjo fitting so you’ll need two total per vehicle.
You need four of the new bolts.
Yes only the front changed.
Yes all you need to do is drill the mounting ears on the knuckle larger and bolt on the 16+ calipers.
To answer the other questions though: with 16+ calipers your existing brake lines will bolt right up. Get new crush washers though. They are pre-bent to cover both sides of the banjo fitting so you’ll need two total per vehicle.
You need four of the new bolts.
Yes only the front changed.
Yes all you need to do is drill the mounting ears on the knuckle larger and bolt on the 16+ calipers.
Damn. I wish I knew this when I did mine. I put on the standard brake lines without the banjo fitting. That was the one part that I have disliked. Ah well, such is life. If it ends up being problematic, I'll either tap the caliper for a banjo line or replace them altogether....
bloc
SILVER Star
I guess some clarification is in order.. if you use 16+ landcruiser/LX calipers, you will use a banjo fitting as originally equipped on a 200, but you must drill the knuckle. If you go with tundra calipers, the knuckle stays unmodified, but you must use the reverse flare brake lines like Teckis wrote up. Those calipers aren't machined for the banjo fittings.
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
Really helpful clarification.
supercarrera
Club Esprit de Four
I have all the parts to do the '16+ brake upgrade. I think there's a high probability of jacking up the caliper bolt holes with a regular drill bit or even a step bit. I ordered a 9/16" (14.28mm) reamer off Amazon that looks like it should do the job:
Amazon product ASIN B00FXJGVP6
Amazon product ASIN B00FXJGVP6
bloc
SILVER Star
GREAT idea..
Is there a drawback to either method? Can you put it in laymans terms? My mechanic installed the tundra setup. I believe the 16+ LC uses slightly larger rotors. But Tundra parts will be cheaper (my upgrade cost $300). To me using the reverse flare brake lines sounds like a safer method because of not drilling?
bloc
SILVER Star
Both tundra and 16+ 200 LC/LX use the same size rotor.
Tundra: cheaper used calipers, must run combo brake line as outlined early in this thread. Need to figure out how to retain the brake line to avoid vibration damaging things. A few options for this are presented. No modification to the knuckle, can buy rotors and calipers at any parts store.
16+ 200: new calipers are slightly more but still affordable, and brand new. (Toyota felt the need to increase the size of the mounting hardware in this application with the move to the larger rotor.. they didn’t do this in the tundra. Did they find something they don’t like about the smaller hardware with the longer caliper mounting ears? We don’t know but we can assume they changed it and the knuckle for a reason) This caliper uses the same brake lines with banjo fitting as a factory 200. Again, Toyota specified banjo fittings on the 200 but reverse flare on the Tundra. Why? All we know is the 200 is their flagship and intended to be “better” than everything else. The 16+ 200 calipers retain that, and simplify brake line mounting and vibration control. But you must drill the caliper mounting bolt holes in the knuckle larger to accept the larger bolts. 16+ calipers will be harder to find at random parts stores, if you ever need one. Seems unlikely for a brand new factory caliper during this install.
I think this covers it.
I plan to put together a thread when I do this mod, and possibly work with teckis to highlight the pros and cons of each.
Any tips for getting new Tundra calipers that don't require the core charge? From Toyota the best i can do is $180 plus $60 for a core charge.
oempartsource.com
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I ordered calipers from Olathe parts online and there wasn't a core charge. They were LC calipers, so maybe that's the difference?
If they're charging you a core, you're likely not getting new calipers. Cores are only charged on rebuilt/refurbished parts AFAIK.
