I'm not talking about part numbers- I mean vendors. I'm finding the part numbers in this thread and others- I was asking about who to order from. The last time I ordered OEM parts it was from Beno for my old 100 series- that has been a while!
DIY Tundra Brakes (BBK)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
- Start date
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I'm not talking about part numbers- I mean vendors. I'm finding the part numbers in this thread and others- I was asking about who to order from. The last time I ordered OEM parts it was from Beno for my old 100 series- that has been a while!
bloc
SILVER Star
That is exactly what I’m talking about. I can remember a half dozen threads asking about favored OEM parts vendors in the past few months, with tons of great options presented all over the country, which should cut down on shipping costs to you.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
R1concepts make a 6 or 8 piston front caliper with up to a 405mm rotor
And a 4 or 6 piston rear caliper with up to a 380mm rotor.
And a 4 or 6 piston rear caliper with up to a 380mm rotor.
I believe the hard lines for the Tundra calipers are:
@TeCKis300 i can now confirm these are the correct hard brake lines to use. Had Javier’s Auto Crawl Shop perform the brake job.
@TeCKis300 i can now confirm these are the correct hard brake lines to use. Had Javier’s Auto Crawl Shop perform the brake job.
From 340mm to 354mm upgrade Done.
2015 GXL with 2021 Sahara doner parts.
Brake lines fit direct, no changes needed
Main bolts are 12mm on the GXL and 14mm on the sahara so some drilling required.
Added new extended ball joints, checked gas levels in shocks, new pads and DBA T3 rotors
2015 GXL with 2021 Sahara doner parts.
Brake lines fit direct, no changes needed
Main bolts are 12mm on the GXL and 14mm on the sahara so some drilling required.
Added new extended ball joints, checked gas levels in shocks, new pads and DBA T3 rotors
bloc
SILVER Star
So the bolt holes had to be enlarged but were already in the correct location?
And did you keep your old backing plates?
Holes were perfectly located, OEM backing plates were retained
bloc
SILVER Star
Awesome.. per posts from other people I was thinking the holes moved too but this is super valuable info. I’ll be copying what you did soon.
Any concern of contact between the UCA and the fender well? Someone here (I think @turbo8 ) had contact.. tho I do think that was with tundra arms.
- Thread starter
- #71
Pretty cool to know the holes are identically in the same positions on the knuckles. I likewise interpreted that they had moved the mounting positions. Still will need a bit of expertise to comfortable drill and tap, but wholly doable. '16+ LC/LX brakes will still be a bit harder to come by than the common Tundra/Sequoia caliper, but again, another great option!
bloc
SILVER Star
Only needs drilled. The threaded portion is in the caliper ear. But I agree I’ll want to get that hole perpendicular and round. I’m actually going to see if there is a step bit that will make the job really easy.
And I’m finding new 16+ 200 calipers for $142 each online. That is cheap enough to not need to go used.. in my case.
- Thread starter
- #73
This is even getting better. From what we understood to needing the whole knuckle replaced, to what couldn't be simpler...I'm liking where these new developments are going.
Freshy new calipers, new bolts, rotors, drill out a couple holes and done! With all the giant tires and heavy builds on the forums, more pre-16' 200s should be doing this.
bloc
SILVER Star
Agreed!
The only thing I haven't visualized yet is how much meat is left on the knuckle after the hole is enlarged.. but in all likelihood the 16+ casting is the exact same just with a 2mm larger hole drilled. I'll be pulling one of my caliper bolts soon to measure the bore and start looking for a step bit, but also to see how much material will be left. Most likely plenty, but it is the only thing holding me back from ordering parts.
Hi, this is great news! Let me make sure I get it:
The caliper itself provides the additional offset to allow the use of the larger disk? So you only need the caliper (pad), bolts, and disk to make this work?
I have 17" rims. Could you give the center of the axle to the further point on the brake (second bolt) so I could estimate clearance?
The caliper itself provides the additional offset to allow the use of the larger disk? So you only need the caliper (pad), bolts, and disk to make this work?
I have 17" rims. Could you give the center of the axle to the further point on the brake (second bolt) so I could estimate clearance?
bloc
SILVER Star
Clearance on 17s is very tight and that could be a difficult measurement to get precisely enough. I’d just do the research into whether your 17s will fit a tundra.. if so they will clear this.
Calipers:
rh 4773060320,
lh 4775060320
Bolts: 9010514198
rh 4773060320,
lh 4775060320
Bolts: 9010514198
bloc
SILVER Star
@VooDoo2 Good call. Calipers came loaded with pins, spring retainers, etc?
Oe rotors: 43512-60210
Brake line crush washers (one per caliper, they are U-shaped including both sides of the banjo bolt): 47389-50020
I haven't compared the 16+ splash shields, but intend to. If they have more venting I may replace these too.
Right: 47703-60100
Left: 47704-60100
Note that replacing these requires removing the front hub & bearing from the knuckle/CV.
Pads should be interchangeable between 08-15 & 16-21.
Oe rotors: 43512-60210
Brake line crush washers (one per caliper, they are U-shaped including both sides of the banjo bolt): 47389-50020
I haven't compared the 16+ splash shields, but intend to. If they have more venting I may replace these too.
Right: 47703-60100
Left: 47704-60100
Note that replacing these requires removing the front hub & bearing from the knuckle/CV.
Pads should be interchangeable between 08-15 & 16-21.
Last edited:
bloc
SILVER Star
Plenty of meat.
The holes measure approx 12.25mm, and bolts are 11.85. I’ll be working on trying to find an appropriate step bit to keep the hole straight and make the job super easy. If not, 14mm bit it is.
The holes measure approx 12.25mm, and bolts are 11.85. I’ll be working on trying to find an appropriate step bit to keep the hole straight and make the job super easy. If not, 14mm bit it is.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I just bought two new front calipers last week from Olathe for about that price. Seemed like a reasonable cost to me. If anyone wants my current 2016 calipers to mess with once they're off, let me know. One of the threaded holes on the passenger side was over-torqued by the previous owner's mechanic. The bolt holds, but I can't get it to torque properly. That hole would probably need to have some metal added, drilled and retapped, but for free plus the cost of shipping, they could make a handy person happy.
