DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (17 Viewers)

[petveedub]

I while back I had a starting issue in my wife's LX, and I pulled everything apart to replace the starter contacts. The rubber boot was hard and brittle, and the contact and bolt were badly corroded underneath. I have never done the contacts before so I figured this was typical.

While doing the job I noticed some build-up on the metal pipe below the heater hose "T". On inspection the "T" was brittle and broken just as others have found. It appears to have been causing a small leak aimed in the direction of the starter which caused the corrosion and failure of the contacts.

The "T" is a much easier fix than the starter, so definitely worth the inexpensive fix or at least a quick check. As usual parts were priced well and in stock with great service through Beno.

 

[APKhaos]

My original Ts [hot side] failed four years ago. Roadside fix was a very large combination of brass plumbing fittings to achieve a T equivalent with the right size barbs [two large, one smaller for the feed to the rear heater]. Decided to replace this ugliness with stock Ts and new hoses recently, driven in part by concern about the risk of corrosion in the brass fittings. Good news is that the brass fittings were perfectly clean in the bores. Better news is that the lines are new and there's no more brass Frankenstein lump at the back of the engine.

 

[uzj100]

Hey guys.

Ordered up the brass T's and finally replaced the plastic T's.

My 2000 LC has 214k odo miles, more like 235k real miles (been running 33s since 100k).

The hot side T crumbled when removing. Even when I went to start and grabbed the hose, coolant started spraying everywhere. I removed the other lines to ensure I retrieved all the pieces.

The cool side had no issues.

I used the lay on the intake method and it took about 45 minutes. I would recommend buying new clamps as the hardest part was reusing the original clamps and pulling over the small hoses on the bottom of each T.

1 banana job. Highly recommended sooner than later.

Pictures.

 

[SWUtah]

I did the OEM ones but the brass look like a heavy duty permanent fix. Nice

 

[jgray]

Don't let this happen to you... This original T only lasted for 213,000 miles... I should've replaced these already but at least mine broke close to home and I only had to wait overnight for my local Toyota parts department to get me 2 new ones... Pretty crazy how deteriorated the "hot - driver side" T was... It fell apart the rest of the way after disconnecting...

 

[cruiser03]

I replaced my T's on my 03 LX470 last month with 120k miles and the T's looked like new but the hose was compressed so much by the clamp that when I released the clamp it started leaking. Also there are two hoses under the vehicle that should be replaced at the same time. They were in need on my LX.

 

[phsycle]

Saw all these broken T's here earlier this week, so made it a point to do this today as I'm now around 160k. Noobie tip: soapy water on the clamps. Use your fingers to twist them up for easier removal. The clamps towards the firewall were tough to get to. After about 1/2 hour of contorting every which way, I (painfully) twisted them right side up. Had I done this earlier, it would have been a 10 min job. One of them broke off (the lower hose pictured below, towards the engine). I tried to retrieve all pieces. Hope I did. Couldn't take the hose off, so hoping nothing got in there. Would it be a good idea to do a power flush? Coolant was done at 120k, so don't need it done, but I don't want to risk it clogging the thermostat or radiator.

Also, I left the clamps right side up for easier removal next go around.

 

[gil12]

Did mine today - the one towards the driver fell apart - managed to get all the pieces - the other cracked when taken out. Took me WAY too long! Glad its done! 135,000 on a 1999 cruiser. Wish I had done it before - could have been stranded. Thanks to everyone that pointed to these for replacement.
Gil

 

[ElHefe]

For those that have done this while replacing the hoses as well, do you "preassemble" each set before installing them in the engine bay?

 

[super90]

Yes, I did pre-assemble each set.

I also removed them as a set so as not to risk broken pieces of plastic dropping into the "system" when open. When I took the hoses off the T's there were small pieces that broke off, but I was working on the bench at that point so no harm.

 

[options2]

Ordered parts and on my to-do list. Thanks for the write up and pics.

 

[Tinkerer]

Did my tees recently, after reading these posts.

For some reason, mine were in good shape, at 180k miles on 99 LX. The hoses are also all in good shape, no reinforcement weave deterioration or other problems. I suspect it may be related to maintaining good coolant chemistry: I always use 60/40 antifreeze / distilled water, and change every 30k miles. It may be that using tap water, and/or not changing coolant enough (every 30k as recommended), may subject the system to adverse chemistry that attacks the plastic parts and hoses more severely.

(Also found my water pump was in good condition when changed recently at 180k. That is another benefit of distilled water based 60/40 coolant changes every 30k miles: The water pump bearing etc. stay better lubed and free from chemical attack.)

I've seen many vehicles with chemical corrosion and precipitate in the coolant/system, to the point of radiator clogging even, but this one (and others I maintain) are always clean inside the system. I also know that many shops use unfiltered plain tap water for coolant mix/fill, with all the contaminants (having worked in the trade in prior years). 1+1 = 2.

FWIW.

 

[ElHefe]

Yes, I did pre-assemble each set.

I also removed them as a set so as not to risk broken pieces of plastic dropping into the "system" when open. When I took the hoses off the T's there were small pieces that broke off, but I was working on the bench at that point so no harm.

This is very good idea.

 

[kz195688]

Just did mine yesterday. Replaced with brass. Also replaced the hoses, so as not to worry about those later. It was a real pain removing the rubber hoses from where they connect to the heater tubes and the top of the motor. I ending up slicing the ends with a box cutter and working them off. Surprisingly, the "T"s were not bad but the rubber hoses were hard, to the point where most of them could not easily be pinched. LC has 207k on it and they may be the original hoses and "T"s. I also did the TB, water pump, T-stat, tensioners, hoses, and serpentine belt. Glad that is over with. Thanks for the info.

 

[dnp]

Just talked with another guy today who lost his 2UZ due to a failing heater T. I never realized how common this issue is, but I guess many of our trucks are getting to the age that items like this need to be replaced preventatively. To have encountered two people in the last 6 months who have ruined engines due to coolant loss, this is a serious issue.......one that has a simple, inexpensive fix. After talking to the first person, I replaced mine a few weeks ago. They actually looked good at 297,000 miles, but the new Ts and hoses look a LOT better and provide peace of mind!

I recommend replacing your Ts! (and 6 connecting hoses, while you're at it)

 

[UdirtyZJ]

My 2cents worth...Mine broke on a night ride last October and I had to leave the truck on the trail to make it back to camp. Went to lowes next morning and bought some PEX T fittings (brass) in the plumbing dept and buttoned it back up with compression clamps. The PEx fitting isnt as long as the original and the bottom diameter is a little smaller but it worked and has been working fine since. Good option in a pinch. ABout $3.50 for the T.

 

[dogdaysindurham]

I found these steel ones from dorman. But I don't think they are stainless. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-56387/overview/

McMaster Carr has stainless 5/8" t fittings but they are 66 bucks a pop. http://www.mcmaster.com/#2653k57/=vucmpx

 

[hankinid]

Link noted states they're steel...which I doubt would be an issue.

Since oem T is 0.54" on the T side, it might be a hard shove to get it on the fitting.

Steve

 

[Toyo72]

Here's a link to better photos of the Dorman T-fitting, from Rock Auto http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=589613

 

[SWUtah]

Since OEM ones are good for over 120k miles why not just go with what Toyota spec's?