DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (6 Viewers)

[Davio6]

The other ends of the heater hoses are attached to barbed metal fittings straight from the factory. Those ends never seen to be the problem, so that should allay your fears. The trick to both heat cycling and tees that are slightly off, dimension-wise, is to use constant tension worn clamps like the Breeze #10 constant torque clamps, which have been recommended throughout the thread.

I'm probably missing something, but I'm not seeing barbed fittings in the engine compartment, and none of the heater tee hoses connect to barbed fittings. By barbed fittings I don't mean the rolled bead on the end of the aluminum tubing, but the jagged teeth of the typical brass tee. The hose clamps do not exert pressure over the rolled bead in the aluminum tube, but on the smaller, smooth part of the tube. The jagged teeth on the brass tee is exactly where the hose clamp exerts its force. That's where a cut or stress break can occur.
Thanks,
Dave

 

[BEG]

I'm probably missing something, but I'm not seeing barbed fittings in the engine compartment, and none of the heater tee hoses connect to barbed fittings. By barbed fittings I don't mean the rolled bead on the end of the aluminum tubing, but the jagged teeth of the typical brass tee. The hose clamps do not exert pressure over the rolled bead in the aluminum tube, but on the smaller, smooth part of the tube. The jagged teeth on the brass tee is exactly where the hose clamp exerts its force. That's where a cut or stress break can occur.
Thanks,
Dave

I see. We're thinking about different tees. The ones most recommend are the Four Seasons tees, which is what I had in mind:

 

[Davio6]

Thanks, BEG. I knew I was missing something. That metal Tee in your picture looks great. I was thinking of brass tees with jagged barbs.
Your metal fitting looks like a very good idea.
Dave

 

[97 AZ LC]

Your metal fitting looks like a very good idea.

Except that as non-metric they are not quite the right size, so they seem to have a tendency to leak, so you need better and tighter clamps, which comes back to your original point about possible hose damage. I just had a fuel line problem from an over-tightened clamp, on another make, not factory work.

 

[Davio6]

Sorry, I assumed that nice metal fitting was the correct size, not just close to correct. Clamping incorrectly sized hoses and fittings is a recipe for leakage due to over-tightening, distortion and hose damage. They might be close enough that they work OK, just depends.
Thanks,
Dave

 

[BEG]

Sorry, I assumed that nice metal fitting was the correct size, not just close to correct. Clamping incorrectly sized hoses and fittings is a recipe for leakage due to over-tightening, distortion and hose damage. They might be close enough that they work OK, just depends.
Thanks,
Dave

I can vouch for them working just fine with zero leaks for many miles provided that a) you use new hoses when installing and b) you use the constant tension worm clamps. The metal tees are within tolerance to work with the hoses, it's the factory spring clamps that don't provide enough tension to keep them from leaking.

 

[Davio6]

I can vouch for them working just fine with zero leaks for many miles provided that a) you use new hoses when installing and b) you use the constant tension worm clamps. The metal tees are within tolerance to work with the hoses, it's the factory spring clamps that don't provide enough tension to keep them from leaking.

That makes sense. The special clamps take up the size mismatch, and the new rubber molds itself to the slightly different fitting. Sounds like it's working fine.
Thanks,
Dave

 

[James Bentley]

So are most of you going with OEM heater T's or the 4 Seasons units? I can't find PN for the OEM units (help!). The parts sections online at PartSouq, McGeorge and a few others online sellers don't show a picture. Am I looking in the wrong "sub-section" of the parts manual?

 

[Ayune]

@James Bentley First post in this thread. Toyota P/N 87248-60460.

 

[James Bentley]

@James Bentley First post in this thread. Toyota P/N 87248-60460.

Thank you @Ayune would you or others explain why I can't see or find the picture online from the parts manuals (am I looking in the wrong section = "Radiator & Water Outlet" seen in my pic)?

 

[87warrior]

Thank you Ayune would you or others explain why I can't see or find the picture online from the parts manuals (am I looking in the wrong section = "Radiator & Water Outlet" seen in my pic)?

I have never seen the "T" in a parts diagram. I went looking for it on a few online parts pages and could not find it without the part number 87248-60460. Replaced my "T"s 60k miles ago with Toyota replacements. Reused the old heater hoses and clamps. Still leak free at 305k miles

 

[2001LC]

It's funny! A good parts inter-face has Tee under electrical, not cooling system.

 

[Ayune]

They're on the diagram called "HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - WATER PIPING":
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - WATER PIPING. For 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.7L V8 AT | Toyota

 

[MountaineerLC]

So are most of you going with OEM heater T's or the 4 Seasons units? I can't find PN for the OEM units (help!). The parts sections online at PartSouq, McGeorge and a few others online sellers don't show a picture. Am I looking in the wrong "sub-section" of the parts manual?

View attachment 1835991

I went with OEM. The originals lasted 17 years and 200,000 miles. That's a heck of a service interval. I went ahead and replaced the hoses as well. It was probably unnecessary, but I cooked an engine in a Land Rover once due to a blown coolant hose. Ever since the I've been a little OCD about hoses.

 

[Matt Phelps]

After replacing my heater tee’s I noticed the plugs below the tee’s and one of them seems to have had hot coolant dripped on it in the past. I don’t have any dash lights on, and everything seems to be working as it should.

Should I be concerned about the melted plug? Thoughts?

 

[Empty room]

After replacing my heater tee’s I noticed the plugs below the tee’s and one of them seems to have had hot coolant dripped on it in the past. I don’t have any dash lights on, and everything seems to be working as it should.

Should I be concerned about the melted plug? Thoughts?


View attachment 1840673

I’ll certainly change it from the looks of it. Go to the local pull a part type place a grab one for $1 but a new one “shouldn’t” cost too much either.

 

[SF1911A1]

OK guys, I have now read all 25 pages on this topic and I realize that there is probably no wrong way to do the job. My question that I haven't seen authoritatively answered is: Is the four seasons steel T safe to use long term? I am replacing all six hoses and don't mind spending $27 on the breeze clamps that have been mentioned above. I want the most long term reliable solution and expense is not an obstacle within reason. I picked up factory plastic T's a couple days ago (it took me like three days to read this whole post.) I have no heartburn returning the plastic T's and ordering the Four seasons ones if that is the better option. It seems like aluminum T's are the best option, but I haven't seen such a thing linked on any of the posts. Did I miss it or does it not exist as far as anyone knows? This post has been incredibly helpful and I appreciate everyone's contribution!

Oh and when I pulled the T's, the engine ground that is clipped to one of the hoses was not connected to anything on the ring end. Where am I supposed to attach it exactly? Thanks.

 

[Empty room]

OK guys, I have now read all 25 pages on this topic and I realize that there is probably no wrong way to do the job. My question that I haven't seen authoritatively answered is: Is the four seasons steel T safe to use long term? I am replacing all six hoses and don't mind spending $27 on the breeze clamps that have been mentioned above. I want the most long term reliable solution and expense is not an obstacle within reason. I picked up factory plastic T's a couple days ago (it took me like three days to read this whole post.) I have no heartburn returning the plastic T's and ordering the Four seasons ones if that is the better option. It seems like aluminum T's are the best option, but I haven't seen such a thing linked on any of the posts. Did I miss it or does it not exist as far as anyone knows? This post has been incredibly helpful and I appreciate everyone's contribution!

Oh and when I pulled the T's, the engine ground that is clipped to one of the hoses was not connected to anything on the ring end. Where am I supposed to attach it exactly? Thanks.

Post everything you buy when you get the aluminum Ts

 

[James Bentley]

OK guys, I have now read all 25 pages on this topic and I realize that there is probably no wrong way to do the job. My question that I haven't seen authoritatively answered is: Is the four seasons steel T safe to use long term? I am replacing all six hoses and don't mind spending $27 on the breeze clamps that have been mentioned above. I want the most long term reliable solution and expense is not an obstacle within reason. I picked up factory plastic T's a couple days ago (it took me like three days to read this whole post.) I have no heartburn returning the plastic T's and ordering the Four seasons ones if that is the better option. It seems like aluminum T's are the best option, but I haven't seen such a thing linked on any of the posts. Did I miss it or does it not exist as far as anyone knows? This post has been incredibly helpful and I appreciate everyone's contribution!

Oh and when I pulled the T's, the engine ground that is clipped to one of the hoses was not connected to anything on the ring end. Where am I supposed to attach it exactly? Thanks.

Hi @SF1911A1 My plastic T's went 14 years and 164k mi
I bought the same plastic ones to replace the originals.
The ground "ring" goes on the firewall (see pic)
EDIT- I would add that IF I keep this 10+ years and 150k mi or more, I would be happy to put more plastic Toyota T's in again.

 

[SF1911A1]

Sorry I wasn't more specific, it's the other end that is not connected.