DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (10 Viewers)

[atnolan94]

It's astonishing how varried the quotes are on this job from mechanics. My primary Toyota guy quoted me $225 (P&L). Talked to another mechanic we trust and he did it for $85 (P&L). For that price, I was happy to have him tackle it.

$500 to $600 is absurd!

It is absurd. This is a 15 minute job with good clamp pliers. I just used some really long needle nose with a 90* bend at the end. Worked exactly how I needed.I wouldn't personally pay $85 to have it done, but if I were paying to have it done I wouldn't pay a penny more than that.

Everyone who does this....make sure you are very careful on the left T, the one closest to the driver's side fender. The one closest to you when working on it. It is connected to a cast piece that includes the heater bypass up to that T. If you pull on it hard you will unseat the press-fit pipe in that piece and create a major leak. Only way to fix it is to replace it. This is a 3-4 hour repair that involves removing your entire intake manifold. This will cost probably $800 at the dealer to fix if you don't do it yourself.

I'm sure it has come up in this thread before but it is really critical.

 

[2001LC]

Just replaced my T's and hoses (all with OEM), went to fire up the vehicle and i have a bad leak coming from PS firewall inlet. I've double checked the hose, tried a different clamp and indexed the position of the clamp on the hose but it is still leaking...bad. Anyone have a similar issue? Any suggestions on what to try next?

View attachment 1669761

Have you tried with hose and clamp pushed on/in about 3/8" to 1/2" further. The OEM clamp will not work well if over enlarged tip of pipe, needs to be about 3/8" or more back of.

 

[abuck99]

If considering paying a tech to do the job- an hour would be reasonable. Most shop labor rates are over $100hr so you can budget on at least $100 + the cost of both plastic Ts and some coolant and hoses if you’re replacing those (Hopefully they use the right coolant to replace what drained out, and dont break your fittings in the process).

Its a fiddly job if your working on the Ts the first time because the factory assembly had the clamps set in the worst f’ng orientation: turned down-inside-away from simple easy access. Those who’ve done the work know what Im talking about.Takes some contortion with pliers, or the right clamp tool to get the clamps off efficiently.

If the heater T hoses need replacing- ( usually they are swollen after 10yrs/150k) replace all 6 and use a razor knife to cut the old hoses off to avoid tugging/twisting on the soft aluminum fittings.

Loosely pre-assemble the T’s with the spring clamps positioned towards the middle of the hose and T connections loose fit for final positioning. Once you have the hoses angled in the optimal direction push the hoses to the stops and slide the clamps into position (oriented for easy tool access for next time).

 

[marcfj60]

The other thing it requires is a stool. I'm 6'3" and I had to use a stool to comfortably reach everything at the rear center of the engine bay.

 

[Dwight S]

A step stool and some moving blankets. I tossed a couple of them over the intake and crawled up and laid down over the intake to easily reach. I also recommend replacing the hoses and tees the first time out. Loosely assemble the new hoses and tees prior to removing the old, so you get the proper hoses located correctly. Then use some cutters and cut through the hoses around the tees. Once you get everything off, reassemble the clamps on the work bench and install as a complete unit.

 

[slimbuddha]

The other thing it requires is a stool. I'm 6'3" and I had to use a stool to comfortably reach everything at the rear center of the engine bay.

I did it last weekend, and if you are 5'4" you have a blanket, and you are laying across the front end on top of the front ARB bumper, front of the engine bay and the throttle body to reach, with your legs flailing around like you fell in a well.

 

[marcfj60]

I did it last weekend, and if you are 5'4" you have a blanket, and you are laying across the front end on top of the front ARB bumper, front of the engine bay and the throttle body to reach, with your legs flailing around like you fell in a well.

I can almost imagine it.

 

[Fishon1213]

Do other Toyota vehicles with the 4.7 have the same tees that need replaced? I have a 98 hundy that I'm about to do and I also have an 07 sequoia.

 

[2001LC]

Yes all 4.7L. I now see that even the 5.7L have them.

 

[FLJ23]

It is absurd. This is a 15 minute job with good clamp pliers. I just used some really long needle nose with a 90* bend at the end. Worked exactly how I needed.I wouldn't personally pay $85 to have it done, but if I were paying to have it done I wouldn't pay a penny more than that.

Everyone who does this....make sure you are very careful on the left T, the one closest to the driver's side fender. The one closest to you when working on it. It is connected to a cast piece that includes the heater bypass up to that T. If you pull on it hard you will unseat the press-fit pipe in that piece and create a major leak. Only way to fix it is to replace it. This is a 3-4 hour repair that involves removing your entire intake manifold. This will cost probably $800 at the dealer to fix if you don't do it yourself.

I'm sure it has come up in this thread before but it is really critical.

Did you figure out the leak?

 

[FLJ23]

Just replaced my T's and hoses (all with OEM), went to fire up the vehicle and i have a bad leak coming from PS firewall inlet. I've double checked the hose, tried a different clamp and indexed the position of the clamp on the hose but it is still leaking...bad. Anyone have a similar issue? Any suggestions on what to try next?

View attachment 1669761

Did you figure out the leak?

 

[97 AZ LC]

This works nicely for re-orienting downward facing hose clamps - with a low level of trauma. It's a 1.5 inch deep C-clamp, about $8 on eBay (below). Open it up, wrap it around the hose, close it to compress the clamp, spin the clamp around to where you want it, remove the clamp, switch over to your pliers.

IRWIN Tools QUICK-GRIP C-Clamp, 1 1/2-inch, 1 1/2-inch Throat Depth 2025101 689993498843 | eBay

 

[Lopott]

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Hose-Cla...73684&sr=8-11&keywords=automotive+clamp+tools

this worked well for me

 

[menancyandsam]

So I decided to tackle this PM item. After slicing the hoses & taking the complete assembly off, I was a bit disappointed to learn that my tee's looked perfect. But then I find this lurking in the one of the long hoses.

It was ring shape, guessing the fat part at the end of the Tee. Disintegrated when I pulled it out. I guess the PO replaced the old crumbling Tee but left a big chunk of it in the hose. So I guess I was lucky after all.

Thanks to everyone's suggestions of taking the complete assembly off at one time.

Now to replace the hood struts, hood closed on me & trapped me as I was laying on top of the engine.

 

[Slashzero]

Great idea!

If you have access to a Home Depot or other hardware store, c-clamps are only a couple of bucks each. THD has a 2 inch c-clamp for $1.97.

Sometimes, online prices are a complete rip-off. You have to watch out.

It's a 1.5 inch deep C-clamp, about $8 on eBay.

 

[abuck99]

This is the ultimate go-to spring clamp tool; and worth the investment. Makes quick work of the hard to get to heater t spring clamps.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-9409A-Pliers/dp/B003D3N7YW

See it in action

 

[Slashzero]

This is the ultimate go-to spring clamp tool; and worth the investment.

For $15 more, I picked up this set, which comes with other goodies too.

BETOOLL 9pcs Wire Long Reach Hose Clamp Pliers Set Fuel Oil Water Hose Auto Tools

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z9RSU9W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

 

[Bigtex]

Replaced my tees this week. I was going for longest intact tees, but the starter was going out so it was time. Sure is an easy job when you've pulled the intake manifold for the starter replacement.

So, these had 325k miles on them. Hoses were just fine, one tee was solid, the other was obviously leaking a bit and disintegrated upon removal.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Great idea!

If you have access to a Home Depot or other hardware store, c-clamps are only a couple of bucks each. THD has a 2 inch c-clamp for $1.97.

Sometimes, online prices are a complete rip-off. You have to watch out.

What's unique about the eBay (or Amazon) clamp is that it's deep for its length. This allows you to reach around the hose but still have a small clamp to spin in close quarters. The deep clamps aren't really available at retail. Sometimes when you consider gas and time an internet order is a bargain. But I'm not saying a 2 inch clamp wouldn't work - it might, just not quite as elegant for the job.

 

[atnolan94]

Replaced my tees this week. I was going for longest intact tees, but the starter was going out so it was time. Sure is an easy job when you've pulled the intake manifold for the starter replacement.


View attachment 1692810
So, these had 325k miles on them. Hoses were just fine, one tee was solid, the other was obviously leaking a bit and disintegrated upon removal.

View attachment 1692811

View attachment 1692814

Would be a great time to replace that rear bypass too....mine let go on me, same exact thing as losing a T.