DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (4 Viewers)

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Where do you gents source your hoses and clamps from? Dealer priced me at $247.00 for the entire set. I think it's a bit too much for a few feet of hoses and clamps.
I ordered during a sale. It was quite a bit, but, if they last another 280,000 miles and 23 years, worth it.
 
I ordered during a sale. It was quite a bit, but, if they last another 280,000 miles and 23 years, worth it.
Oh, and carefully cut and peel the old hoses. The fittings to the core are soft aluminum. Also, the clamp on the passenger side to the pipe that goes into the valley, yeah that clamp if not affixed will slide right on down under the plenum. Took patience and two flexible retrievers.
 
I ordered these back in 2023 for $13.88 each and surprisingly they’re cheaper today $10.78 each
 
I ordered these back in 2023 for $13.88 each and surprisingly they’re cheaper today $10.78 each
I decided to stick with the OEM T’s. The replacement will just fall into my 90,000 mile timing belt replacement schedule. On my 06 I only replaced the T’s (they made it 250,000 miles). My 02 T’s had been replaced with a gates and a factory T but several of the clamps were worm type and digging into the hoses and I wanted to go back to factory compression. So I went ahead and did the hoses at the same time. I do not care for laying up in that engine bay.
 
Personally, I only replace the first hose in most cases. The hot (driver side) 90 elbow hose. Unless heater hoses, are swollen. Swollen, as seen near clamps (puffy look down stream side of clamp) indicates overheating, which is hard on the rubber hose. Those hoses, are trash. The typical hose in well care for engine, are fine. Even at 25 year and 400K mile, that I've seen.
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I replace the 90 degree elbow, because. Removing plastic Tee from engine side of hose, they'll often crumble. Which result in plastic dropping into engine side 7 out of 10 times. I can blow out heater cores, but not the engine side. So plastic ends up, in coolant system. Sometime behind thermostat, which I can get to. But sometimes, gets into oil cooler. Which I can't get to, without removing oil cooler (PITA).
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When removing that 90 degree hose, I cut it off. Using a hook razor blade. I'm very careful, to not score the metal pipe coming up from engine (rear water bypass), as I cut the hose off it. I'm just as careful, to not put any lateral pressure on that pipe. That pipe is pressed into rear water bypass. Too much side to side pressure on pipe. The fitting where pipe pressed in, will leak. Then, rear water bypass, must be R&R.
Hoses, Water bypass to heater tees (3).webp

Toyota recommends soapy (dish soap) water ( I use Dawn). Which, helps slip hoses on. It also aids in, rubber hose light attaching (fusing) to metal pipe.
Hoses, Water bypass to heater tees (1).webp


Tip:
Place clamps, back into the impression they made on old hose and same orientation. Which is a Toyota how recommends Which helps, reduce chance of leaks.
With new hoses we place clamps in any ortation we like.
 
That hook razor blade is a great tip @2001LC
 
Personally, I only replace the first hose in most cases. The hot (driver side) 90 elbow hose. Unless heater hoses, are swollen. Swollen, as seen near clamps (puffy look down stream side of clamp) indicates overheating, which is hard on the rubber hose. Those hoses, are trash. The typical hose in well care for engine, are fine. Even at 25 year and 400K mile, that I've seen.
View attachment 3990096
I replace the 90 degree elbow, because. Removing plastic Tee from engine side of hose, they'll often crumble. Which result in plastic dropping into engine side 7 out of 10 times. I can blow out heater cores, but not the engine side. So plastic ends up, in coolant system. Sometime behind thermostat, which I can get to. But sometimes, gets into oil cooler. Which I can't get to, without removing oil cooler (PITA).
View attachment 3990092
View attachment 3990093When removing that 90 degree hose, I cut it off. Using a hook razor blade. I'm very careful, to not score the metal pipe coming up from engine (rear water bypass), as I cut the hose off it. I'm just as careful, to not put any lateral pressure on that pipe. That pipe is pressed into rear water bypass. Too much side to side pressure on pipe. The fitting where pipe pressed in, will leak. Then, rear water bypass, must be R&R.
View attachment 3990090
Toyota recommends soapy (dish soap) water ( I use Dawn). Which, helps slip hoses on. It also aids in, rubber hose light attaching (fusing) to metal pipe.
View attachment 3990091

Tip:
Place clamps, back into the impression they made on old hose and same orientation. Which is a Toyota how recommends Which helps, reduce chance of leaks.
With new hoses we place clamps in any ortation we like.
Excellent, I'll start with the Ts and the 90 hose. Maybe that's why RockAuto only carries those two items. Thank You!
 
great point on the fragments. On my 06 I clamped the hoses on all sides of the T's. While fruitful, it was nerve wrecking (and I mean wrecking) positioning clamps in spots where I felt they would not damage the metal inlet or outlets, or cause one of the T's to crumble. So I worked my way up. Bottom of the T first, then the engine sides and then with some special clamps that I had from years past to work on fuel hoses on my Mercedes W210's that are crazy compact and thin, the core side. This made maneuvering even worse. So when it was time to do the 02, I just dumped the hoses. That seatbelt type cutter / hooked blade is another awesome tip!
 
Checked my Ts and it looks like one of the previous owners already replaced them. Here are some photos. Maybe someone can chime in?

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Checked my Ts and it looks like one of the previous owners already replaced them. Here are some photos. Maybe someone can chime in?

View attachment 3991902

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View attachment 3991905
I mean at the expense of $30 and a half hour you’ll know they are good for another 90kmiles. I don’t think external visual is the best indicator of remaining life and I wouldn’t pull apart the hoses without have a spare set of tees on hand. 8724860460
 
Checked my Ts and it looks like one of the previous owners already replaced them. Here are some photos. Maybe someone can chime in?
Likely, they've been changed at least once because the original orientation of the clamps is 180 degrees of what you have it at. 😉
 
Personally, I only replace the first hose in most cases. The hot (driver side) 90 elbow hose. Unless heater hoses, are swollen. Swollen, as seen near clamps (puffy look down stream side of clamp) indicates overheating, which is hard on the rubber hose. Those hoses, are trash. The typical hose in well care for engine, are fine. Even at 25 year and 400K mile, that I've seen.
View attachment 3990096
I replace the 90 degree elbow, because. Removing plastic Tee from engine side of hose, they'll often crumble. Which result in plastic dropping into engine side 7 out of 10 times. I can blow out heater cores, but not the engine side. So plastic ends up, in coolant system. Sometime behind thermostat, which I can get to. But sometimes, gets into oil cooler. Which I can't get to, without removing oil cooler (PITA).
View attachment 3990092
View attachment 3990093When removing that 90 degree hose, I cut it off. Using a hook razor blade. I'm very careful, to not score the metal pipe coming up from engine (rear water bypass), as I cut the hose off it. I'm just as careful, to not put any lateral pressure on that pipe. That pipe is pressed into rear water bypass. Too much side to side pressure on pipe. The fitting where pipe pressed in, will leak. Then, rear water bypass, must be R&R.
View attachment 3990090
Toyota recommends soapy (dish soap) water ( I use Dawn). Which, helps slip hoses on. It also aids in, rubber hose light attaching (fusing) to metal pipe.
View attachment 3990091

Tip:
Place clamps, back into the impression they made on old hose and same orientation. Which is a Toyota how recommends Which helps, reduce chance of leaks.
With new hoses we place clamps in any ortation we like.

I mean at the expense of $30 and a half hour you’ll know they are good for another 90kmiles. I don’t think external visual is the best indicator of remaining life and I wouldn’t pull apart the hoses without have a spare set of tees on hand. 8724860460
Already ordered a set and a 90 hose from RockAuto.
Likely, they've been changed at least once because the original orientation of the clamps is 180 degrees of what you have it at. 😉
That was my initial thought as well. I t seems like the second previous was an enthusiast and took care of the truck.
 
Received my Ts and hose from RockAuto. Ts are made by Autotecnica from very high quality and sturdy plastic. They also comes with the Lifetime warranty. Hose will need to be cut to size but feels really good too. Will throw them in glove compartment for now just in case.
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Just replaced my heater Ts and I'm glad I did because it didn't take much force to snap the base off one of the Ts; I did have to slice the hoses to the firewall but the others just twisted off.

I used the following part numbers.

96134-42100 x 8
90467-19022 x 4
87248-60460 x 2
87245-6A210 x 1
87245-6A220 x 1
87245-6A800 x 1
87245-6A190 x 1
99556-20155 x 1
87245-6A180 x 1

I also ordered 4x 96136-52101 in accordance with the parts diagram (schematic 2/3) but they're too small for the firewall pipes and I didn't bother fitting them to the rear heater supply/return and used 90467-19022 instead.

I didn't bother sourcing the brass Ts as these plastic ones lasted 21 years.

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For peace of mind, my rule is to always replace the heater Ts at every timing belt interval and the heater hoses at every other timing belt interval.
 

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