Yes I’m using 16 ha cold rolled. I can’t get any real depth even with my heavy duty bead roller. The machine I use is a pullmax and that is the only way to get them deep like that without stretching it so much that it’s thin enough to split.
DIY rear floor pan using a Bead roller?
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Yes I’m using 16 ha cold rolled. I can’t get any real depth even with my heavy duty bead roller. The machine I use is a pullmax and that is the only way to get them deep like that without stretching it so much that it’s thin enough to split.
brian
SILVER Star
You need 16ga for panels anything else is a waste of time.
If the ribs are not deep/high enough it will not be rigid enough.
If the ribs are not deep/high enough it will not be rigid enough.
It just depends on what kind of panel you’re making.
brian
SILVER Star
I wouldnt want any panel from less than 16.
I haven't built one for the FJ40 yet. But have I built them for other vehicles. So that isn't really hard for me.
Not fooling me, you're all over this. Ha, you remind me of my good friend, he can do anything with metal. Proper beading can make some light metal like Kryptonite. He gets it done in proper fashion but I can't deny, you kill it. Very pretty work!
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- #28
Thank you for your incite Metalshaper. I appreciate your expertise and experience. That is what I was wondering , if the ribs were not deep enough if that would cause the floor to not be structurally rigid enough. I guess I'll probably just bite the bullet and order a replacement floor and sill. There is no sense wasting time and money if I'm not going to get the results I hoped for. Thanks again for chiming in, and keep up the good work on your build, I look forward to your progress!
Interesting video I enjoyed.. .
I was just directed here; I am a budding metalshaper, and while my bead rolling skills aren't up to the OP, I have a few suggestions.
First, ditch cold rolled steel, esp. if you want to do 16 ga. You need Aluminum Killed steel to really work it like you need to do. It's available through metalshaping specialty steel houses.
Second, you need to ask your question and post your pictures on this forum. All MetalShaping - Powered by vBulletin
Third, metal sheet is nearly infinitely workable. Especially if you are patient, have a good set of hammers, and a clever mind. Warping sheet metal is not an issue. Anything you can warp, you can unwarp, especially if you have an English wheel. And even if you don't. Third world shops build floor pans all day long using nothing but sheet, hammers and a flat piece of steel or stump.
First, ditch cold rolled steel, esp. if you want to do 16 ga. You need Aluminum Killed steel to really work it like you need to do. It's available through metalshaping specialty steel houses.
Second, you need to ask your question and post your pictures on this forum. All MetalShaping - Powered by vBulletin
Third, metal sheet is nearly infinitely workable. Especially if you are patient, have a good set of hammers, and a clever mind. Warping sheet metal is not an issue. Anything you can warp, you can unwarp, especially if you have an English wheel. And even if you don't. Third world shops build floor pans all day long using nothing but sheet, hammers and a flat piece of steel or stump.
David is a fantastic person to learn from. I’ve spoke to David many times over the years. His very first video metal shaping with basic tools is what got me started with about 10 years ago. I recommend that video to everybody getting started.
I use cold rolled because it’s easier for me to get and I like the finish. Technically hot roll or aluminum Annealed is easier to work. If I had to hand hammer every single piece then I would probably do that however it’s very hard for me to find a supplier around me that carries that and doesn’t want two or three times the cost of when I can get Cold Rolled for
If one doesn't have a Pullmax, what's the chances of building a hammerform? You could even hammer form just the ends, and weld them onto joggled panels. It'd be stiff, look right once finished, and be within the capabilities of a typical home shop. Just thinking through solutions to the problem....
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- #33
Thanks for your suggestions. I'll have to look into the prices for the hot rolled or aluminum killed steel. I live way out in the sticks, so the nearest metal supplier is an 1-1/2 hrs away. But if the material is as expensive as Metalshaper stated, that might be the deciding factor.
I am a member on the All MetalShaping forum, (although I haven't been active for the past year every since all my pictures were taken hostage by Photobucket, lol). But that is a very talented and knowledgeable group over there. I will have to go back and revisit that site.
I do need to invest in some metal working tools. Besides my beadroller, a homemade bending brake and some basic hand tools, I don't have a very extensive collection of metal working tools. I would love to get a English wheel, metal shrinker/stretcher, I need some good hammers and dollies etc. I kind of look at the cost of buying replacement panels vs buying the tools that would allow me the freedom to do more metal work myself. It's kind of a balancing act of sorts...as much as I would like to do everything myself I need to weigh the time involved in doing so vs just buying an aftermarket off the shelf part. I guess when I started this thread I was hoping I would just be able to whip out a floor panel with minimal time or effort involved, lol. I guess if it was that easy everyone would be doing it! I've seen guys do patch and repair panels for floors and use a beadroller with good success, but as Splangy stated earlier those were alot smaller surface area, not an entire floor. I like your idea for the hammer form, that might be a route I could go. I'm not giving up on the idea of taking on this project. It will be a few months before I can start working on the Land cruiser so that will give me some time to continue doing some research on the subject. I appreciate your comments and advice.
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Cool thread. Subscribed.
Yeah, the English Wheel and shrinker/stretcher make things easier. But you can do everything you need with hammers, a stump, and some MDX panels to make your forms. Have you attended a metal meet? I bet one local to you would let you bring your project for the group to work on. BTW, the cheapest way I know how to get Al Killed steel is to buy it at a metal meet. Often groups of people go in and buy bulk, and sell it at cost to participants.
I went from knowing nothing, to producing this piece over a weekend at Metal Meet in the Northwoods.
I went from knowing nothing, to producing this piece over a weekend at Metal Meet in the Northwoods.
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You wouldn’t want a late model 40 series then.
That looks like a Captain America shield.
