Builds DIY FJZ80 Low Budget Turbo Build (1 Viewer)

[lilevo]

After I had the manifold and turbo on, the stock studs were plenty long enough. The treadstone manifold has almost the same thickness flange as the oem headers.

I used a grinder to smooth off each of the holes in the flange so any washers or nuts will be flat and without any casting roughness.

 

[landtank]

they must have made a change as the original ones where quite a bit thicker.

 

[dagwood85]

This is what I'm doing on mine as well. I was at work and was just thinking and wanted an opinion on the treadstone manifold. I will be watching this. Then, if she don't blow the motor rebuild will follow.

 

[lilevo]

"Budget" was removed from the thread title since this is going to be comprehensive and done "right", not necessarily cheap. A full parts and price list will be available when I'm done.

I should have more pictures by the end of the week. The air/water intercooler setup will be here along with a multitude of silicone couplers, other misc parts, boost and wideband gauges and mounting pods.

 

[alia176]

We need pics damn it.....

 

[lilevo]

Of what? I posted everything to date.

 

[clownmidget]

Yeah I think "done right" and "cheap" are mutually exclusive when the subject includes 80-series & turbochargers. I do look forward to seeing your results. Any plans to touch the engine - HG, head work, valves, etc?

 

[lilevo]

I had the head surfaced 35k ago, new oem gasket, new valve seals at 200k.

It has 235k now, not touching anything. In that respect, it will be "budget, leave your valve cover on" build.

Next step, depending on my results with afr, timing and tuning may be the haltech interceptor or another piggyback system.

I dynoed the truck stock and will also dyno the truck with the oem maf and landtank maf in the next month or two.

 

[lilevo]

More pictures, new parts in today:

Air Water IC and cooler

HKS SQV

"High resolution" boost gauge

Dynomax Ultraflo

 

[concretejungle]

Maybe a used one can be had for under $1K but then you'll be wondering...

The real deal properly spec'd is going to be closer to $1500 just for that, before you start tossing in blow off valve & plumbing. Not trying to pee in the Cheerios, just to make it clear doing a turbo setup is not really cheap.

Exactly. Not knocking what you are doing in any way. But when i finally wrapped my head around just the cost of a GT35R i decided to get the supercharger and pretty much bolt it up.

 

[Rookie2]

Exactly. Not knocking what you are doing in any way. But when i finally wrapped my head around just the cost of a GT35R i decided to get the supercharger and pretty much bolt it up.

What'd you end up spending all tolled on the DIY supercharger upgrade?

 

[concretejungle]

$3400, plus antifreeze.

It wasn't DIY it was a TRD kit.

I wanted the turbo but after talking to Baktash and reading Landtank's thread, there just wasn't any way i could reliably put a turbo on my truck without some help and extra fab for under $5,000. That's the conclusion i came to. So after spending just over $3000 rebuilding my motor, another $5,000 or more was just not tasteful to me.

 

[lilevo]

Yeah but turbo sounds cooler and is infinitely adjustable!

 

[lilevo]

I tried installing an Apexi afc but it didn't work. It recognized tps and rpm inputs but not the afm signal.

1fzfe wasn't in the supported models either, but 1uzfe and a few similar era engines were. I wonder how much different their afms are?

Probably stuck with the 1fz maf too since the ecu won't recognize any other ones.

Rick, do you have any beta-MAFs you could lend me for some testing? I'm about three weeks out on install and dyno time. I can get very solid dyno sheets for your records and r&d. It would be fun to compare maybe a stock maf with v1, v2, etc.

 

[scottryana]

If youre not going standalone youre also going to need an O2 sensor manipulator. URD has one.

 

[lilevo]

For the rear o2?

 

[scottryana]

No for the front O2. In closed loop even if you use an Apexi to increase fueling, the computer will use the front O2 reading to decrease fuel to reach the set 14.7:1 AFR. So you get in a loop trying to add more fuel and then having the computer cut it. Not to mention you will want to be seeing 11.5:1 with your turbo setup instead of the 14.7:1. The URD O2 will allow you have have a true AFR or 11.5:1 while feeding the stock computer the 14.7:1 signal it is happy with so that it won't cut fueling.

http://urdusa.com/p1260518747/URD-O2-Sensor-Calibrator/product_info.html

 

[lilevo]

Good idea. Thanks.

With no cat, does the rear o2 need to be in place or removed? What function and check does it have on a 1fzfe?

 

[lilevo]

After more tweaking the AFC installation was a success. The MAF type is a hotwire and the sensor number as far as the setup is concerned is the same as a 2JZ.


Main screen

Sensor voltages: (narrowband OXY1 voltage is IN-2)

Setup screen 1

Setup screen 2

Setup screen 3

It worked great with the limited testing I did at idle. I was able to go full rich and also go full lean until the truck died.

Like Scott said however, the ECU is in N/A mode and trying to achieve 14.7 at all conditions. I will play around with the AFC while I'm still N/A and figure out what I'm going to do once I put the turbo on.



I'm also pulling the RPM signal from NE wire off the distributor and it reads high. That's the only problem and I might need to revisit that.

 

[clownmidget]

Ahhhh, and so it goes....add the URD for closed loop, add the APEXi for open loop...

the $$$ start bleeding out pretty quickly once you go beyond the "slap on a turbo and see what she'll do" approach.