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DIY FJZ80 Low Budget Turbo Build

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by lilevo, Feb 20, 2013.

  1. jertiffauk

    jertiffauk

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    Deffinetly putting the wide band at the top of the list. I'm sure it's not ideal right now... assuming I'm running a little rich, based on what I've been told by a couple others on here with the same set up. The worst I could do is foul some plugs or dirty up my cat. Plugs are Safari NGK spec'd, rather than stock, also run premium fuel per instruction. As far as timing I don't see a big issue. "Scary" Get's me a little scared!
     
  2. TexasJack

    TexasJack SILVER Star

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    Someone needs to design a $350 turbo you can bolt in by removing 4 bolts. Am I asking too much? :D
     
  3. 86tuning

    86tuning

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    A small gas powered leaf blower should do the trick.
     
  4. Riad

    Riad

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    Curious to know how the parts list looks like so far. Can we see it?
     
  5. lilevo

    lilevo

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    Soon :)

    I made and installed a rear o2 simulator.

    [​IMG]

    ...and ran wiring for the boost and wideband gauges.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2014
  6. lilevo

    lilevo

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    OBD2 adapter and TorquePro up and running

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2014
  7. concretejungle

    concretejungle SILVER Star

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    Im interested in more about the O2 simulator.
     
  8. jamisobe

    jamisobe

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    That grill is crying to get blacked out.
     
  9. lilevo

    lilevo

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    Yeah I will black out the grill this year.


    Just put new 285s on last night (Michelin LTX M/S2)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2014
  10. concretejungle

    concretejungle SILVER Star

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    nice... looks kinda murdered out!

    Black out the emblems too.
     
  11. lilevo

    lilevo

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    I'll cover a couple things quick that are related.

    a) The treadstone manifold doesn't have EGR ports. So what, block off the EGR valve. Install a 10,000ohm resistor at the EGR temp plug. No EGR codes. This also works if you have an EGR P0402

    b) If you remove your cats or use non-oem cats, you will need a rear O2 simulator. You will still need to zip tie the O2 sensor out of the way, but with the rear O2 sim you won't have a cat efficiency code. You need to keep the O2 plugged in because the ECU monitors the O2 heater resistance. You can make a sim for about $15 or I can make and ship you one for $70.


    OK, the URD Fuel and Timing controller is installed. This controller is $435 and works in-line with the OEM computer. It does a few things

    1) Intercepts the OXY1 signal, modifies it, and sends it to the ECU. No matter what you do to change the fuel mixture, the ECU believes nothing is wrong and doesn't try to fight your changes

    2) Intercepts the timing signal and modifies it. You can decrease timing anywhere.

    3) Intercepts the MAF signal and modifies it. You can "richen and lean" out the mixture. The controller will also support up to around double the size of stock injectors.

    Setup is pretty basic if you know how to cut, splice, solder, and tape. Directions are included along with an ECU pinout. Two of the colors are listed wrong for the ECU wires, but the location of the wires is correct.

    The controller also has a vacuum hose coming out of it. The MAP sensor is built in and this is how it modifies the signal at various load points. Just tap into your boost gauge for the signal.


    Without further delay.. pictures

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Basic sensors running on Torque Pro
    [​IMG]

    Logging with Torque Pro
    [​IMG]

    Map "A" in the controller software (Fuel map) "10" is the ECU base value. You can go down to 0 (-2.5x) and up to 20 (2.5x fueling)
    [​IMG]

    3D map of fuel map
    [​IMG]

    Map "B" timing map "0" is the ECU base. By adding numbers to each load point you are actually reducing timing by that amount.
    [​IMG]

    You can see the blue highlighted square. That square follows the map based on where you are real time.

    3D map of timing map
    [​IMG]

    Basic logging using the controller software. It records time, load, RPM and your values in Map A and B.
    [​IMG]

    The only bad thing about all this is that you can't make real time changes. You have to make your adjustments, turn the engine off, write the file to the controller, and start the truck again. But I suppose you only really need to do this once and forget it. I'm just used to tuning with an AEM EMS where you can make constant real time changes of everything.

    I'll be happy to help anyone get theirs setup, it's a little tricky to understand at first because there is a modified base map already installed in the controller when you first run it. You basically need to save this map to the desktop, create another one, and ensure the Map A is set to all "10s" and Map B is set to all "0's"
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2014
  12. scottryana

    scottryana

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    Great job, glad someone finally took the route of O2 sensor manipulation. Keep up the good work.

    At a lower price point and those that don't want a stand alone I think this is the way to go.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2013
  13. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    question here ..

    if the signal ECU it's getting from O2 sensor already modified it's normal but you change timing and MAF values that does not confuse the stock ECU .?

    It sees the stock ( 14.7 ) AFR and allow you to play with timing ?
     
  14. lilevo

    lilevo

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    I don't know how it does what it does, but in any fuel controller you aren't changing the O2 signal, you are modifying the MAF signal so the ECU thinks there is more or less airflow going into the engine. This is what causes the ECU to richen or lean the mixture.

    You cut the MAF, timing, and O2 wires completely and insert the urd controller in the middle (they are not basic splice ins). Since the narrowband will probably be around .90 ideally at WOT, under boost, the ECU will assume this is way too rich because it doesn't know the engine is boosted. I would think the controller changes this .90 actual signal into a much leaner signal so the ECU is happy with it.

    In some combination of the above, the controller fools the ECU into thinking parameters are normal. You still need a wideband to figure out what AFR you are at.
     
  15. jamisobe

    jamisobe

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    Well done. I'm gonna order one tomorrow.
     
  16. lilevo

    lilevo

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    You will need some type of OBD2 laptop software along with a wireless, bluetooth, or usb dongle that plugs into the OBD2 terminal in order to log all of the ECU sensors. You can go Android or Iphone based but then youll be tuning with the laptop and logging with a second device. The only logging the URD device will allow you is RPM and load point, which doesn't tell you much about actual timing advance, AFR, etc.

    You will also need a laptop with a serial port and a serial cable. One is not included with the URD controller.
     
  17. concretejungle

    concretejungle SILVER Star

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    Wow! Well done and thanks for sharing. PM inbound..
     
  18. jamisobe

    jamisobe

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    Will a scan tool that uses my laptop with OBDwiz software log the needed information?
     
  19. lilevo

    lilevo

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    Yes any of the obd2 software should work. They all do the same things pretty much. It would be nice to find one that can log multiple values like RPM, throttle, load, and timing for instance.
     
  20. jamisobe

    jamisobe

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