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DIY FJZ80 Low Budget Turbo Build

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by lilevo, Feb 20, 2013.

  1. lilevo

    lilevo

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    After I had the manifold and turbo on, the stock studs were plenty long enough. The treadstone manifold has almost the same thickness flange as the oem headers.

    I used a grinder to smooth off each of the holes in the flange so any washers or nuts will be flat and without any casting roughness.
     
  2. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    they must have made a change as the original ones where quite a bit thicker.
     
  3. dagwood85

    dagwood85

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    This is what I'm doing on mine as well. I was at work and was just thinking and wanted an opinion on the treadstone manifold. I will be watching this. Then, if she don't blow the motor rebuild will follow.
     
  4. lilevo

    lilevo

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    "Budget" was removed from the thread title since this is going to be comprehensive and done "right", not necessarily cheap. A full parts and price list will be available when I'm done.

    I should have more pictures by the end of the week. The air/water intercooler setup will be here along with a multitude of silicone couplers, other misc parts, boost and wideband gauges and mounting pods.
     
  5. alia176

    alia176

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    We need pics damn it..... :)
     
  6. lilevo

    lilevo

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    Of what? I posted everything to date.
     
  7. clownmidget

    clownmidget

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    Yeah I think "done right" and "cheap" are mutually exclusive when the subject includes 80-series & turbochargers. I do look forward to seeing your results. Any plans to touch the engine - HG, head work, valves, etc?
     
  8. lilevo

    lilevo

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    I had the head surfaced 35k ago, new oem gasket, new valve seals at 200k.

    It has 235k now, not touching anything. In that respect, it will be "budget, leave your valve cover on" build.

    Next step, depending on my results with afr, timing and tuning may be the haltech interceptor or another piggyback system.

    I dynoed the truck stock and will also dyno the truck with the oem maf and landtank maf in the next month or two.
     
  9. lilevo

    lilevo

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    More pictures, new parts in today:

    Air Water IC and cooler
    [​IMG]

    HKS SQV
    [​IMG]

    "High resolution" boost gauge
    [​IMG]

    Dynomax Ultraflo
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2014
  10. concretejungle

    concretejungle SILVER Star

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    Exactly. Not knocking what you are doing in any way. But when i finally wrapped my head around just the cost of a GT35R i decided to get the supercharger and pretty much bolt it up. :popcorn:
     
  11. Rookie2

    Rookie2

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    What'd you end up spending all tolled on the DIY supercharger upgrade?
     
  12. concretejungle

    concretejungle SILVER Star

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    $3400, plus antifreeze.

    It wasn't DIY it was a TRD kit.

    I wanted the turbo but after talking to Baktash and reading Landtank's thread, there just wasn't any way i could reliably put a turbo on my truck without some help and extra fab for under $5,000. That's the conclusion i came to. So after spending just over $3000 rebuilding my motor, another $5,000 or more was just not tasteful to me.
     
  13. lilevo

    lilevo

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    Yeah but turbo sounds cooler and is infinitely adjustable!
     
  14. lilevo

    lilevo

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    I tried installing an Apexi afc but it didn't work. It recognized tps and rpm inputs but not the afm signal.

    1fzfe wasn't in the supported models either, but 1uzfe and a few similar era engines were. I wonder how much different their afms are?

    Probably stuck with the 1fz maf too since the ecu won't recognize any other ones.

    Rick, do you have any beta-MAFs you could lend me for some testing? I'm about three weeks out on install and dyno time. I can get very solid dyno sheets for your records and r&d. It would be fun to compare maybe a stock maf with v1, v2, etc.
     
  15. scottryana

    scottryana

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    If youre not going standalone youre also going to need an O2 sensor manipulator. URD has one.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013
  16. lilevo

    lilevo

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    For the rear o2?
     
  17. scottryana

    scottryana

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    No for the front O2. In closed loop even if you use an Apexi to increase fueling, the computer will use the front O2 reading to decrease fuel to reach the set 14.7:1 AFR. So you get in a loop trying to add more fuel and then having the computer cut it. Not to mention you will want to be seeing 11.5:1 with your turbo setup instead of the 14.7:1. The URD O2 will allow you have have a true AFR or 11.5:1 while feeding the stock computer the 14.7:1 signal it is happy with so that it won't cut fueling.

    http://urdusa.com/p1260518747/URD-O2-Sensor-Calibrator/product_info.html
     
  18. lilevo

    lilevo

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    Good idea. Thanks.

    With no cat, does the rear o2 need to be in place or removed? What function and check does it have on a 1fzfe?
     
  19. lilevo

    lilevo

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    After more tweaking the AFC installation was a success. The MAF type is a hotwire and the sensor number as far as the setup is concerned is the same as a 2JZ.


    Main screen
    [​IMG]

    Sensor voltages: (narrowband OXY1 voltage is IN-2)
    [​IMG]

    Setup screen 1
    [​IMG]

    Setup screen 2
    [​IMG]

    Setup screen 3
    [​IMG]


    It worked great with the limited testing I did at idle. I was able to go full rich and also go full lean until the truck died.

    Like Scott said however, the ECU is in N/A mode and trying to achieve 14.7 at all conditions. I will play around with the AFC while I'm still N/A and figure out what I'm going to do once I put the turbo on.



    I'm also pulling the RPM signal from NE wire off the distributor and it reads high. That's the only problem and I might need to revisit that.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2014
  20. clownmidget

    clownmidget

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    Ahhhh, and so it goes....add the URD for closed loop, add the APEXi for open loop...

    the $$$ start bleeding out pretty quickly once you go beyond the "slap on a turbo and see what she'll do" approach.