Builds DIY FJZ80 Low Budget Turbo Build

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read the air flow through the OBDII port. I'm not sure how the URD is wired in so I can't say it's a factor. But on that Safari truck as soon as we installed my modded MAF were continued to read air flow all the way up through to red line on a truck set to 10psi.

from memory the stock MAF would saturate at around 23lbs while we pushed my MAF to 36lbs.
 
Well I think I found the problem.

Picture 1, stock FTC settings no additional maf richening. Lean condition and jerking right under 2000 (cfm?)

ForumRunner_20130412_224811.webp

Picture 2, FTC is "richened" up approx 2.5x from stock. Basically tricked into thinking there is more airflow to make the ecu inject more fuel.

Truck is richer in boost, but jerking still occurs, maf reading is around 3500 cfm and maxxed out there while WOT.


ForumRunner_20130412_225006.webp

ForumRunner_20130412_224811.webp


ForumRunner_20130412_225006.webp
 
If you aren't going to go map, now would be a good use of the GEN I, Landtank MAF...... Larger housing, less obstruction, and hopefully (still don't think there are numbers out there) the voltage will be lower allowing more room before saturation.
 
I have a URD voltage clamp on the way. It was somewhat cheap at around $80. If that doesn't work then I think lower boost or the Landtank MAF is the only option for staying with the stock ECU.
 
I've been thinking about removing the sleeve from my sleeved Gen 1 MAF. Is there a way to do this without cutting it?

Set the housing up in a press and apply a good amount of pressure to the sleeve but don't try to move it as you'll damage the sleeve.

Now take a Bernzomatic torch and start to warm the housing evenly by moving all around the housing.

Once you see the sleeve starts to move press it out.

If it starts to get too tough you need to allow it to cool and start over again.

But if you want something better and immediate I would find a machine shop and have the bore opened up to 2.900" and be sure to have them radius the inlet with a .125-.150 radius.
 
But if you want something better and immediate I would find a machine shop and have the bore opened up to 2.900" and be sure to have them radius the inlet with a .125-.150 radius.
Thanks. This sounds like the cleanest and easiest way. What's the bore without the sleeve?
 
how is a voltage clamp going to help you?

Well, I'm hoping..

Because the maf is seeing more voltage and flow than it should and throwing a cel.

If it's clamped then the voltage is stuck near its limit and shouldn't throw a cel and should allow me to rev it out. Open loop is controlled by the FTC anyways so the actual MAF voltage shouldn't matter as long as its lower than the factory cut off limit.

Seems like voltage clamps are the common fix for n/a mafs that have been converted to forced induction.

I would love to try out a landtank maf, but there arent any around and V3 is still in the works.
 
Well, I'm hoping..

Because the maf is seeing more voltage and flow than it should and throwing a cel.

If it's clamped then the voltage is stuck near its limit and shouldn't throw a cel and should allow me to rev it out. Open loop is controlled by the FTC anyways so the actual MAF voltage shouldn't matter as long as its lower than the factory cut off limit.

Seems like voltage clamps are the common fix for n/a mafs that have been converted to forced induction.

I would love to try out a landtank maf, but there arent any around and V3 is still in the works.

I can't find were you posted what CEL is being thrown.

I'm not sure how clamping the MAF signal is going to help. You can't tune a constant. While the signal might be wrong, as long as it's consistent and responsive you can work with it.
 
This happens all the time in the tuner world. The MAF housing is too small and you run out of resolution on the MAF sensor. You just need a bigger housing. Hit up Mickeyt on here, he just took his LT MAF housing off.

*** this is only being recommended to Brett and lilevo because they have the ability to tune, via MAF voltage.
 
Should I expect better results with the bore going to 2.9 vs a return to 3.033?

I believe so. But I have to make a part that is focused on more than just pure performance.

So like other manufactures there will always be possible hacks people will do to tailor a product to better suite their needs.
 
Since I am able to adjust AFR at idle finding the right bore isn't the issue I am working to master. The issue I am working to control is resolution in open loop. Is this a correct assessment?

If so I may better suit my purposes by having the sleeve removed.
 
I think that the GENIII is better matched to the MAP table which will yield better timing control during closed loop. That was basically the issue with the GENII. The smaller bore increased the output voltage which eventually went off the MAP and the ECU responded by retarding the timing. In much the same way that lilevo is seeing now.

Basically the GENII housing was producing a signal at 3000 rpm that corresponded to what should have been produced at WOT and 5000 rpm.

So while the change I made might seem small it really expands the resolution of a GENII.

I'd start with the rework, you can always pull the sleeve later on.
 

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